The Dmanisi archaeological site represents the ruins of an ancient fortified city located just 10 kilometers from the settlement of the same name. This ancient city thrived at the confluence of the Moshavani and Mashavera rivers, covering an area of approximately 25 hectares. While its construction dates back to the 6th to 15th centuries, scholars have established that people inhabited this region as far back as 3000 BC.
At one time, Dmanisi served as the capital of an independent emirate, enduring conquests by Armenians and Seljuks before its presumed destruction in the 16th century. Today, the site features a temple, a fortress, and an extensive area of ruins that archaeologists are gradually excavating. However, Dmanisi is perhaps best known to the world for another astounding fact of global significance: it is here that the bones of some of the first humans to migrate from Africa to Europe were discovered. This archaeological finding has captivated the attention of scholars and enthusiasts worldwide.
Based on various findings, it appears that humans began settling on this convenient, flat hill as early as the Early Stone Age, although these were not permanent settlements but merely hunter encampments. A more established settlement with houses emerged in Dmanisi around the Early Bronze Age, circa 3000 BC—approximately 2,000 years earlier than in Uplistsikhe. A fully developed city is believed to have been constructed in the 7th century, with documented references appearing in the 9th century. It was during this period that the Dmanisi Sion was built.
When the Arabs arrived in the South Caucasus, they established the Tiflis Emirate, alongside which lay the Dmanisi (or Dumanisi) Emirate. For reasons unknown, we possess very little information about the history of this state. The most notable event is the conflict between the Dmanisi Emirate, the Tiflis Emirate, and the Kingdom of Tashir, which likely culminated in the conquest of the emirate by Tashir around 995 AD. By 1080, the city fell to the Seljuks, and in 1123, the Georgian king David the Builder reclaimed the city for Georgia—most likely from the Seljuks.
The Armenian chronicle of Kirakos Gandzaketsi mentions the plundering of Dmanisi by the Mongols around 1236 AD. In recounting the looting of the city of Lori, he states: “So it was with other cities—Dumanis, Shamshelt [Samshvild?], and the capital Tiflis, where everything was looted and captured, and the inhabitants were slaughtered or taken captive.”
After this, Dmanisi seems to vanish from historical records. At some point, the city was settled by Muslims, leaving behind a multitude of stone gravestones. Something occurred in the city during the 16th century; it is likely that the Persians devastated it during one of Shah Tamaz’s invasions of southern Georgia.
The Dmanisi settlement possesses multiple layers of intrigue. Firstly, there is the fortress, built on a high location between two gorges, effectively guarding the approaches to the city itself. Remnants of walls and towers remain, although not in abundance—enough for a leisurely fifteen-minute stroll. In the lower section, one can view a well-preserved bathhouse. The fortress is the highest point of the entire complex, making it an excellent vantage point for photography.
The most notable and famous structure on the site is the Dmanisi Sion, one of the seven Sion churches in Georgia. It is located directly within the ancient city, slightly below the fortress, and is easily visible from afar. Architecturally, it is quite simple, presenting a hall church with side chapels. It is often referred to as a three-church basilica, although it does not quite meet the criteria for a basilica. Such churches are prevalent in the southwest region.
The Sion was constructed in the 7th century, shortly before the Arab conquest. The temple is compact in all respects, yet it possesses one unique feature. During the reign of King George Lasha (1213 – 1222), a portico adorned with intricate stone carvings was added to the western side. This portico is peculiar, as it suspiciously resembles Armenian gavit structures, particularly with its two internal supporting columns. The resemblance is further emphasized by an entirely Armenian khachkar embedded in the southern wall. Notably, the arches of this portico are not circular but exhibit a slightly Gothic style, suggesting the possible beginnings of Georgian Gothic architecture, which never fully materialized.
Here, one can also observe another remarkable feature: inscriptions in ancient Georgian, carved using the asomtavruli script. There are three inscriptions in total—one above the gateway arch, one inside the temple, and another on the facade of the western side of the Sion.
Previously, the temple was adorned with stunning frescoes and intricate bas-reliefs. Today, only remnants of its former beauty can be seen in the altar area of the church. On the eastern side of the temple, a large tower has been constructed, although the date of its erection remains unclear. Additionally, the ruins of two other ancient temples can be found in the vicinity.
Throughout various epochs, the city of Dmanisi has consistently served as the administrative center of the Dmanisi Diocese, with the Sion functioning as the cathedral of this diocese. Historical records indicate that in the early centuries (around the 5th to 6th centuries), the cathedral was the Vardisubani temple. The Dmanisi bishops, known as the “dmaneli,” are only partially documented. It appears that the diocese continued to exist even during the Arab period. At one point, the main relic of the diocese was the “Dmanisi Icon of the Mother of God,” which miraculously healed Prince Giorgi, the son of King David VII. However, Giorgi ultimately passed away in 1268, before his father. This icon has not survived to the present day, but copies do exist.
The diocese was temporarily dissolved but was restored in 2003, and a bishop now serves at the Sion. The wooden throne of the bishop can be seen in the cathedral, positioned according to the ancient Georgian-Greek tradition against the southern wall rather than in the center.
In Southern Georgia and Northern Armenia, stone carvings of rams and horses adorned with intricate designs are frequently encountered. Their origins are still a topic of discussion among scholars. It is commonly believed that such sculptures were created by the Turks in the 14th century. However, some of these rams feature depictions of firearms, adding to the intrigue. In Georgia, these stone rams are scattered quite chaotically, but Dmanisi boasts a collection of six or seven, likely the largest in the country. They stand on either side of the path leading to the rear gates of the archaeological zone, forming what can be termed the “Alley of the Rams,” akin to the “Avenue of the Sphinxes” in Luxor. It is possible that these were once gravestones, although there is no consensus on this matter.
Today, the Dmanisi archaeological site spans an impressive 25 hectares, serving as a true reserve where visitors can discover not only a wealth of astonishing facts but also enjoy breathtaking panoramic views. The settlement was situated on a small plateau nestled between mountains, adjacent to the confluence of the once mighty and swift rivers—Moshavani and Mashavera. Surrounding the site are magnificent mountain ranges rich with dense forests, making the natural beauty of Kvemo Kartli a noteworthy attraction in its own right. Here, the towering mountains seamlessly transition into expansive plains and even semi-deserts, creating a stunning tapestry of landscapes—flower-filled meadows, rocky foothills, verdant slopes, and fragrant herbs of the plains.
Visitors can enter the site through its main gate, where the path veers left and ascends to the fortress walls. The fortifications have remarkably withstood the test of time, stretching nearly 300 meters in length. The fortress walls encircle the ruins on three sides, featuring large “windows” embedded within them.
The fortress itself comprises the remnants of what was once a grand structure. In some areas, the height of the buildings reaches between 2.4 and 3 meters today. Everything within these walls is referred to as the inner fortress of Dmanisi. Historically, access to this area from the city was limited to a single entrance. The ruins of three towers still stand, all oriented towards the south. The fortress’s primary line of defense lies in its strategic location; perched on a high hill and flanked by gorges, it was virtually impregnable, effectively protecting the city from invaders.
In addition to the towers and fortress, visitors can also explore an ancient castle dating back to the 13th century. Today, a large chamber remains, adjacent to which is a bathhouse. Slightly to the right, another structure is believed to have served as a royal palace, featuring three living quarters connected by a long corridor. Two of these rooms were used for habitation, while the third served as a unique cellar where four intact wine vessels were discovered, buried in the ground. Access to this area is gained by descending a flight of stairs. Within the upper fortress, visitors can see approximately twelve structures of varying preservation, although their specific functions remain unknown.
This area is the most intriguing, as it is where significant scientific discoveries have been made. Before you lies a landscape dotted with numerous remaining foundations of houses and outlines of streets. Steps, small niches, and walls constructed of gray stone masonry have been preserved. In the archaeological zone, one can observe a unique cross-section of the soil, reaching heights of up to 5 meters. This is also where the famous first European and his “companion” were unearthed.
The archaeological zone is a well-organized area for tourists, featuring pathways, wooden walkways, and numerous informational stands with photos and explanations for each excavation site. It serves as a vast archaeological museum where visitors can stroll and explore over 2,300 fascinating artifacts. The territory is enclosed by a mesh fence and is monitored by security personnel.
Here, you will encounter awe-inspiring exhibits, including life-sized reconstructions of the skulls of Mziya and Zezva. The museum also houses ancient ceramics, tools used by early humans, and precise replicas of precious jewelry discovered in Dmanisi. Additionally, a unique treasure trove was found here, consisting of coins and adornments made of gold and silver.
The museum welcomes guests daily from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, except on Mondays.
