Ateni Sioni (ატენის სიონი) is a remarkable church located in the village of Ateni, just south of Gori, on the left bank of the Tana River. Constructed shortly after the renowned Jvari Monastery, it dates back to the early 7th century, around 630 AD, well before the Arab invasion. Inside, visitors can find frescoes from the Golden Age of Georgia, dating approximately to 1080. In addition to these stunning frescoes, a wealth of inscriptions—both inside and outside the church—has been preserved. In terms of the quantity and historical significance of these inscriptions, Ateni Sioni stands as the undisputed leader among all churches in Georgia.
The church is dated to 630 AD, and academician Chubinashvili believed it was built by the Armenian architect Todosk, whose construction inscription can be found on the southern facade. Ateni Sioni is significant in the history of architecture, primarily because it has survived the ravages of time. Only three churches of this type have made it to the present day: Ateni Sioni, Jvari, and the church at the Old Shuamta Monastery.
By the late 8th century, the church likely fell within the borders of the Tiflis Emirate, albeit on its outskirts. By the end of the 10th century, this territory (the Ateni Gorge) was claimed by the Kldekar Eristavi, known as the Bagvashi or Liparitids. Around the 960s or 970s, the eristavi Rati Bagvashi made some peculiar alterations: he removed several Georgian reliefs from the church and replaced them with Armenian ones. Around the same time, a large inscription appeared on the northern wall, stating that the church was built by Armenians. One of these reliefs even depicts Rati himself on the eastern wall.
In the 11th century, a protracted conflict began between the Liparitid Bagvashis and King Bagrat IV. While the specifics of how this war affected the Ateni Gorge remain unclear, by the 1060s, Bagrat had taken control of the gorge and renovated the town of Ateni, creating a twelve-line inscription on the southern facade of Sioni. This inscription is now the largest on the church.
In 1089, David the Builder ascended to the throne. One account states that he ultimately reclaimed the Ateni Gorge from the Liparitids. We know that after 1080, the Liparitids mysteriously vanish from history. After seizing the gorge, King David commissioned frescoes for Sioni around 1093. The walls of Sioni were adorned with images of himself, the Bishop of Chkondidi, and notably, an image of the previous king, Giorgi II, depicted in his monastic attire.
In 1556, a Russian traveler inscribed on the wall, “The servant of God has departed,” explicitly marking the year in Cyrillic numerals.
In the spring of 1614, Shah Abbas’s army reached this site during his first invasion, and they reportedly lit a fire within the church. The resulting soot on the walls remains visible to this day, or so it is claimed.
Inside, the church closely resembles Jvari, differing primarily in its frescoes. Like Jvari, Ateni Sioni has remarkably escaped the ravages of time, with no signs of later repairs evident in its arches. The church is adorned with numerous frescoes, primarily from the 11th century, which are quite rare in Georgia. Unfortunately, many of these artworks have suffered damage, particularly from the fire set by Shah Abbas, and now only fragments are visible. The interior is relatively dim, so the vibrancy of the colors may not be fully appreciated.
These frescoes were created between 1093 and 1094 under the orders of David the Builder. They feature his likeness, indicating that we possess a portrait of him from his lifetime. He is depicted in the altar apse, accompanied by images of other historical figures from that era.
The temple facades are adorned with intricate reliefs depicting hunting scenes and episodes from the lives of saints. Within the monastic complex, visitors can also admire the well-preserved Orbeliani domed church (8th–9th centuries), the Tsmind Giorgi church (11th century), and the medieval fortress of Atenis-tsihe.
