Nestled in the quaint resort town of Surami, within the Khashuri Municipality, Surami Fortress (Georgian: სურამის ციხე) is situated just 55 kilometers from Gori, Georgia. This charming town serves as a natural crossroads for travelers moving between eastern and western Georgia, renowned not only for its significant historical landmarks but also for its delectable sweet bread known as nazuki. If time allows, a visit to this fortress and its surrounding attractions is a must for anyone passing through.
Historically, Surami Fortress occupies a strategic position atop a rocky cliff overlooking the Suramula River. Its location along the vital routes leading to the Likhi Range to the west and Borjomi Gorge to the south made it a pivotal stronghold. Control of this fortress equated to control over these essential trade and travel pathways.
Georgian historians trace the origins of Surami Fortress back to the 11th century, during the formative years of feudalism in the region. Some suggest it may have first emerged in the 12th century; either way, the fortress underwent numerous reconstructions in the centuries that followed.
By the 12th century, Surami had evolved into a heavily fortified town under the control of the Eristavs, the dukes of Kartli. Its strategic significance made it a frequent target for attacks, leading to a gradual decline in its prominence. However, it remained a bustling trading hub, and during the 16th and 17th centuries, the fortress was once again rebuilt.
In the 1740s, Surami served as a base for Prince Givi Amilakhvari during his conflicts against King Teimuraz II and the Persian forces. After the prince’s surrender in 1745, the fortress was dismantled, only to be restored later for use by Russo-Georgian troops during anti-Ottoman operations in the Russo-Turkish War (1768–1774). By the 19th century, however, it had lost its military relevance and fell into disrepair.
Surami Fortress is uniquely positioned on a rocky outcrop, featuring a complex architectural design. The fortress walls vary in thickness, reaching up to three meters in some places. Originally, the castle comprised both an upper and lower tier, although the lower section has unfortunately been lost to time.
The upper fortress includes a defensive wall, a tower, a church, the ruins of a palace, and remnants of various agricultural buildings. The tower, which once loomed five meters high and was pyramidal in shape, was strategically placed above the entrance wall. The church, situated in the southeastern corner of the fortress, is a hall church with walls crafted from hewn stone adorned with intricate ornamentation. A storeroom was later added to the south of the church, while the palace ruins can be found in the western section of the outpost.
Interestingly, the fortress also features a concealed escape tunnel, though it is currently blocked and inaccessible. Historians believe this tunnel once extended eastward beneath the Amaghleba (Ascension) Church, leading to Kvartisi Mountain, which is dotted with natural springs that could have sustained the garrison during sieges.
The fortress is steeped in legend, particularly one that may be rooted in ancient pagan beliefs. According to this tale, the fortifications of Surami Fortress are said to owe their strength to the sacrifice of a man named Zurab. The builders faced continual challenges with the walls collapsing just as they neared completion. In search of a solution, they consulted a fortune teller who proclaimed, “For the fortress to stand firm, someone must be buried within its walls.” After the sacrifice, the walls remained steadfast. As Surami Fortress has never been excavated, the secrets it holds continue to elude discovery.
This captivating legend was revived when Georgian author Daniel Chonkadze penned a novel about Surami Fortress. The story was later adapted into a film by acclaimed Georgian director Sergei Parajanov, an Armenian by descent, in his award-winning 1985 feature, The Legend of Suram Fortress.