Mount Ushba

Mount Ushba is the most iconic peak in Svaneti and arguably one of the most renowned across the entire Caucasus. Though not the highest—its elevation reaches 4,690 meters—it captivates with its sharp, dramatic silhouette and the formidable challenge it poses to climbers. Ushba is often compared to the Alpine Matterhorn (Monte Cervino), sharing a similar pyramidal shape, comparable height (Matterhorn stands at 4,778 meters), and an equally demanding climbing grade. In fact, Ushba has earned the nickname “the Matterhorn of the Caucasus” in European climbing circles.

The mountain boasts two distinct summits: the North and the South. From the Georgian side, the South summit is more commonly visible—especially from the Becho community—while the North summit can be seen from vantage points such as the Ugiri Pass. Interestingly, the North summit is slightly lower. It was first ascended in 1888 by John Garford Cockin and Ulrich Almer, whereas the South summit was not conquered until 1903 by the famed expedition of Rickmer Rickmers.

Ushba is primarily composed of granite and is characterized by its steep, rugged slopes. On its northern face lies a sheer vertical wall, famously known as the “Mirror of Ushba.” This imposing cliff was once ascended by the legendary Georgian alpinist Mikhail Khergiani, further cementing the mountain’s mythical reputation.

Today, Ushba can be approached via several climbing routes, each with varying degrees of difficulty ranging from Grade 4A to 6A—classified as “difficult” to “extremely difficult.” For comparison, the Matterhorn’s routes are considered slightly less challenging, graded between 3 and 5.

Although the peak is visible from virtually every high vantage point in Svaneti, it is not always visible from the valleys below. The most striking views are from the Becho community, essentially at the mountain’s base. From the Latali area, Ushba is only visible from the village of Lakhushi. It is not visible from Mestia, and from Mulakhi, only the tip of the summit can be seen. A particularly panoramic view is available from the Ugiri Pass, which stands at 1,922 meters.

The usual base for expeditions to Ushba is the village of Mazeri, located in the Becho community. It serves as the launching point for both ascents and treks toward the Ushba Glacier. The glacier trek typically takes around eight hours to complete, covering 10 kilometers with an altitude gain from 1,600 meters at Mazeri to 2,700 meters at the glacier’s edge. Along the trail, hikers encounter pristine waterfalls and mineral springs. For those preferring less strenuous travel, horseback excursions can take visitors surprisingly close to Ushba, departing from either Becho or Latali.

A full summit expedition typically takes about six days—or longer, depending on weather conditions. Climbers often dedicate one day for acclimatization and training on Mount Mazeri, which itself rises to 4,010 meters.

One of the more charming legends among mountaineers is the story of how, in 1903, Prince Dadeshkeliani officially “gifted” Ushba to the German climber Cenci von Ficker, a member of the Rickmers expedition. The deed of gift was recorded and preserved. According to local lore, the Svan people were insulted by the idea of their mountain being handed over to a foreigner. To this, Prince Dadeshkeliani wryly replied: “The mountain stands where it has always stood—but the lady is pleased.”