Ksani Fortress

Ksani Fortress (Georgian: ქსნის ციხე) stands as a powerful remnant of Georgia’s medieval past, situated near the village of Tsikhisdziri in the Mtskheta Municipality. Perched on the commanding heights of Mount Sarkineti, this fortress overlooks the confluence of two vital rivers — the Ksani and the Mtkvari (Kura). Due to this strategic location, the site is also referred to as the Mtkvari Fortress. In recognition of its historical and cultural value, it was officially listed among Georgia’s Immovable Cultural Monuments of National Significance in 2007.

Visible from afar, Ksani Fortress dominates the surrounding landscape with its majestic silhouette. While it remains relatively obscure on mainstream tourist routes, this hidden gem attracts travelers with a taste for discovery and an appetite for history. The climb to the fortress takes approximately 30 minutes, and those who make the ascent are rewarded with sweeping views of the Ksani and Mtkvari river valleys and a direct connection to centuries past.

The 16th century was a tumultuous time in Georgia’s history, marked by fragmentation into smaller kingdoms and principalities. During this era, the Kingdom of Kartli was under the rule of King David X (1505–1525). It was his younger brother, Bagrat I of Mukhrani (circa 1487–1540), who commissioned the construction of Ksani Fortress.

News of the fortress’s construction soon reached King Av-Giorgi of Kakheti (1511–1513), a ruler notorious for his erratic and ruthless behavior, earning him the epithets “the Mad” and “the Evil.” Provoked by the fortification’s rising prominence, Av-Giorgi led his army to seize the stronghold. A siege ensued, lasting for three grueling months. Legend tells that in an act of mockery, Av-Giorgi sent a gift of wine to Bagrat, assuming the fortress defenders were starving. Bagrat responded with a gesture of defiant confidence — a live salmon, kept fresh in a well within the walls. This unexpected reply shattered Av-Giorgi’s hopes of starving his opponent into submission, prompting him to abandon the siege.

In honor of Bagrat’s bravery and successful defense, King David X granted him the fertile lands of Mukhrani. This reward laid the foundation for the rise of the Mukhrani branch of the Bagrationi dynasty — known as the House of Mukhrani or Mukhran-Batoni — a noble line that would hold considerable influence in Georgian history.

The conflict between Kartli and Kakheti continued. In 1513, Av-Giorgi launched another invasion into Kartli, but his campaign ended in defeat. Bagrat’s forces captured him and imprisoned him in Mtveri Fortress, where he was executed shortly thereafter. This victory allowed Kartli to temporarily annex the territory of Kakheti.

From 1513 to 1733, Ksani Fortress served as the primary residence of the Dukes of Mukhrani-Bagrationi. Over time, the castle gradually deteriorated. By 1733, the ruling family had relocated to a newly constructed palace in the valley of Mukhrani, leaving the ancient fortress to fall into disrepair.

Although ravaged by wars and weathered by time, Ksani Fortress continued to play a role in the region’s defense. By the 18th century, it was too damaged to be militarily viable. In 1746, Constantine III, Prince of Mukhrani, undertook a significant restoration project, as confirmed by an inscription on the fortress wall bearing his name and the year of reconstruction.

Ksani Fortress originally featured two primary towers — a circular tower to the northeast that rose to about four meters and a rectangular tower to the northwest. Both towers have lost much of their original form. During the 18th-century restoration, Constantine III reinforced the defensive perimeter with additional structures on the eastern and southern flanks, effectively concealing the battered original walls beneath new fortifications.

In his reconstruction efforts, Constantine III not only repaired the structure but also significantly altered its architectural layout. He added four more towers, each distinct in size and design, intended for both defense and habitation. The most impressive of these is the southeastern tower, a six-story edifice that remains the fortress’s architectural highlight. At the base of this tower lies a large reservoir capable of holding approximately 30 cubic meters of water — a vital resource during sieges. Adjacent to the reservoir is a cellar where archaeologists discovered up to 15 kvevri, traditional Georgian clay vessels used for fermenting and storing wine.

Despite the restoration, the fortress has continued to battle the elements. Landslides have long posed a threat to its stability. During the Soviet era, a concrete road was laid to connect the valley to the fortress, but it too succumbed to landslides and was ultimately destroyed. Today, the only viable approach to the fortress is from the southwest. Though the road is rugged and the ascent steep, the panoramic vistas and the aura of centuries-old legend make the journey well worth the effort.