Samshvilde

Perched on a naturally fortified promontory at the confluence of the Ktsia and Chivchavi rivers, the ruins of the ancient city-fortress of Samshvilde stand as a testament to its once formidable strength. Once a thriving city that safeguarded Tbilisi from the southwest, it is believed that Samshvilde may have even served as a royal seat at some point in history.

This seemingly impregnable fortress was situated on a plateau, its sides protected by deep ravines. The only way to approach it was through a direct assault from the west, though even here the high, sturdy walls provided formidable protection. The builders of Samshvilde were keenly aware of the area’s topography, reinforcing the western approach to ensure its defense, knowing well that any invading force would likely come from that direction.

The origins of the name “Samshvilde” have sparked several theories. One suggestion is that the site was once known as “Orbethi” before being renamed, as it was renowned for the crafting of the finest bow arrows (with “mshvildi” meaning “bow” in Georgian). Another explanation ties the name to the ancient religious monument of Otkhva, located on the site. According to legend, this stone had the power to connect the people with celestial bodies, and it was associated with the zodiac sign of Sagittarius (“mshvildosani” in Georgian), giving the place its name, “Samshvilde.”

Today, all that remains of the city are its ruins and a few scattered temples, among them the Samshvilde Sion, dating back to the 7th century, which was destroyed by the Turks in 1578. These historical remnants are nestled on a narrow strip of land between deep canyons, with the settlement stretching approximately one kilometer in length.

The historical complex lies about 6-7 kilometers from the town of Tetri-Tskaro. The lack of developed tourist infrastructure and the absence of large crowds only add to the authenticity of the site. The road leading directly to the main gates is a dirt path, full of ruts and bumps, making it ideal to explore on foot. The route to the main entrance takes you along the main street of what was once a bustling city, which was surrounded by a two-meter high wall. There are no towers or fortifications along this wall.

Near the main entrance, a small but charming Church of the Virgin Mary stands, drawing attention with its unique menhir-khachkar bearing an Armenian inscription from 1044, which mentions the prince Smbat. Originally positioned in the open air, this relic now stands proudly beside the church altar.

Not far from the church, a stone horse can be found. Upon closer inspection, one can make out a human figure carved into the side of the statue, along with depictions of a rifle, cartridges, a horn, and a sabre. This horse is rightly considered the symbol and calling card of Samshvilde, as though inviting travelers to journey back in time to the deep ancient past.

Walking along the main road and turning right, you are greeted with a breathtaking view of the canyon. Continuing toward the edge of the ravine, a large millstone seemingly emerges from the very earth itself, suggesting that this area once hosted a functioning oil press. Unfortunately, the palace building has not withstood the passage of time, leaving only a wall with small windows and a heap of stones.

The walls of the citadel, two meters thick, offer a challenge to daring visitors who are able to climb them (of course, with due caution). However, the risk is richly rewarded with spectacular views of both the city ruins and the surrounding canyon.

Behind the citadel, you will find baths and large water reservoirs, currently fenced off with red-and-white tape as archaeological excavations continue in the area. Beyond the fortress, three more churches await discovery, each one unique in its own way: the famous Samshvilde Sion, the three-nave basilica of K’uriki, and the Hall Church of St. Theodore.

As of 2023, Samshvilde remains largely untouched by mass tourism. There are no parking lots, cafés, or paved roads in the area. This absence of modern infrastructure has allowed the site to preserve its authentic, tranquil atmosphere. Although it occasionally attracts tourists, particularly those with an interest in archaeology and ancient mysteries, the number of visitors is still relatively small. This quiet, off-the-beaten-path destination offers a unique opportunity to explore a forgotten corner of history.

A visit to Samshvilde can be easily completed in a single day, though it’s recommended to spend as much time as possible to fully absorb the site’s captivating atmosphere and historical significance.

From Tbilisi, you can take a minibus to Tetri-Tskaro (look for them near the Samgori metro station). Alternatively, you can take a minibus heading to the village of Koda, and from there, catch a ride to Tetri-Tskaro. The straight-line distance from Tbilisi is approximately 33 kilometers, but the drive on winding roads takes considerably longer.

From the center of Tetri-Tskaro, head south towards Samshvilde. Interestingly, the road was once paved, but today it is covered with gravel. The distance from the center of Tetri-Tskaro to the village of Samshvilde is nearly 5 kilometers, with the entire route downhill. Tetri-Tskaro lies at the foothills of the Trialeti mountains, and the road gently descends toward the canyon of the Khrami River. About halfway, you will cross a railway line. At some point, you will be treated to a lovely view of the village of Samshvilde, the canyon, and the fortress—if you keep a keen eye on the surroundings.

Once you enter the village, continue along the main road until it leads you to a shop. At this point, turn right. A little further down, you’ll find a water fountain with refreshing, tasty water. After about 100 meters, you’ll come to a fork in the road, where you should turn right again. Another 300 meters will bring you to a point where the path becomes clear—you’ll spot the canyon and a bridge ahead. From there, it’s straightforward to follow the road.

At this stage, the towers of the central Samshvilde fortress will come into full view, offering a satisfying glimpse of what lies ahead.