Samshvilde Sion

Samshvilde Sion is an intriguing yet poorly preserved architectural monument. This central-domed church is one of only two of its kind in Georgia. The surviving remains include the eastern wall with its apses, and an inscription on the outer side of this wall, which holds particular value.

The central-domed style was a fashion of the 7th century, a time when many such churches were built in Armenia, and in Georgia, the Tsromi Cathedral was constructed. The layout of Tsromi and this church is almost identical.

On the eastern side of the wall, an inscription is engraved in the Asomtavruli script. L. Mushelishvili has reconstructed it to the best of his ability as follows: “[Holy Mother of God, have mercy on the builders of this holy church…] born of the pious. In the 20th year of the reign of Constantine, the foundation was laid by the hand of […who did not manage to] complete the construction. Varazbakur passed away, and after him, [his brother the Eristavi] Ioane hastened. Ioane also passed away… and after him, it was the bishop who completed the construction of this holy church and the porticos. And in the 3rd year of King Leon, on the day of Enkenia, the consecration took place over six days with a large assembly.”

For a long time, it was assumed that the Byzantine emperors Constantine V (741-775) and Leo IV Khazar (775-780) were being referenced in this inscription. The third year of Leon was likely 778 AD. Historians did not reach this conclusion immediately. In 1856, Marie Brosse published the inscription, suggesting that Constantine referred to King David Narini’s son. In 1905, Ekvtime Takaishvili re-published the inscription, proposing that Constantine and Leon were 10th-century kings of Abkhazia. It was only in the 1930s that Professor Chubinashvili declared these to be the names of Byzantine emperors. The 8th-century dating held for almost a century. However, in 2010, the church’s dating was revised, pushing it back by a century. This revision greatly improved historical understanding. The church’s construction in the 8th century now seemed out of place in the broader historical context, marking it as an exception. Now, everything fits, and we can confidently say that no such churches were built in the 8th century.

For a long time, it was assumed that the Byzantine emperors Constantine V (741-775) and Leo IV Khazar (775-780) were being referenced in this inscription. The third year of Leon was likely 778 AD. Historians did not reach this conclusion immediately. In 1856, Marie Brosse published the inscription, suggesting that Constantine referred to King David Narini’s son. In 1905, Ekvtime Takaishvili re-published the inscription, proposing that Constantine and Leon were 10th-century kings of Abkhazia. It was only in the 1930s that Professor Chubinashvili declared these to be the names of Byzantine emperors. The 8th-century dating held for almost a century. However, in 2010, the church’s dating was revised, pushing it back by a century. This revision greatly improved historical understanding. The church’s construction in the 8th century now seemed out of place in the broader historical context, marking it as an exception. Now, everything fits, and we can confidently say that no such churches were built in the 8th century.

Another significant feature of Samshvilde is its cemetery, which features ancient gravestones shaped like domestic animals. For example, the horse-shaped gravestone signifies that the deceased was a warrior.

Beyond the archaeology, the city’s territory offers breathtaking views of the surrounding canyons and landscapes. The canyons are fascinating in themselves, and it is worth descending into them to explore. In one particular spot, there is a beautiful waterfall, with water cascading down into what appears to be a natural pool, perfect for swimming. The locals often take advantage of this opportunity to bathe.