Climbing Mount Kazbek

The dormant volcano of Mount Kazbek, standing proudly at 5,033 meters above sea level, continues to captivate aspiring mountaineers from around the world. Its allure lies not only in its majestic presence but also in the fact that it is considered one of the more accessible peaks in the Caucasus, making it an attractive goal even for those with limited climbing experience. The ascent via the standard, relatively uncomplicated route typically takes two days. The first day concludes at a weather station situated at 3,675 meters, where climbers can pitch their tents and rest for the night. Given the significant altitude gain—nearly two and a half kilometers—this overnight stop is essential for acclimatization, helping the body adjust to the thinning mountain air.

The journey to the meteorological station begins west of the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church. The path is faint and often barely discernible, winding its way up the slopes. On occasion, fortune may smile upon the traveler: it’s not uncommon to encounter locals from the valley transporting supplies to the station, and joining their company often makes the journey more manageable and more memorable. The trail leads eventually to a glacier, which, despite its intimidating appearance, can be crossed without crampons under normal conditions. From the church to the glacier, the distance is roughly six kilometers.

The weather station itself is a long, stone-built structure that has become a familiar waypoint for climbers. A small but hardy crew resides there year-round, offering shelter for the night within the station building for 25 GEL (approximately $7.60), or allowing campers to set up their tents on the grounds for 10 GEL ($3.80). Those seeking solitude or wishing to save money can pitch their tents farther afield at no cost. Each evening, the hum of a generator signals the arrival of electricity, giving weary climbers the opportunity to charge their devices—phones, tablets, and other essentials—before continuing their ascent.

The station also provides equipment rental services, including mountaineering essentials such as crampons and ice axes. Basic provisions are available for purchase, though prices are significantly inflated—up to ten times more than what one would pay down in the valley, due to the logistical challenges of transportation.

From the station, the summit looms another 1,300 meters above. For those wishing to complete the ascent and return within a single day, the longer, looping trail offers a safer and more gradual approach. The direct route to the top, however, is considered considerably more demanding, often requiring up to four days for a full round-trip expedition.

On the second day of the climb, within the stark and magnificent zone of eternal snow, lies the fabled Bethlemi Cave—previously described and steeped in legend. Located at an altitude of 4,100 meters, it is carved into an andesitic rock face and marks a spiritual waypoint along one of the climbing routes. Here also stands the small aluminum chapel, hoisted by helicopter to its lofty perch, offering a moment of reverence amid the ascent. To determine which route passes by this sacred site, one need only ask the knowledgeable staff stationed at the meteorological outpost.