Stepantsminda

Stepantsminda is a small mountain settlement nestled 165 kilometers north of Tbilisi, at the foot of Mount Kazbek, at an altitude of 1,744 meters. Though modest in size, its fame stretches far beyond the borders of Georgia, thanks to its therapeutic mineral springs, invigorating mountain climate, and the unique blend of architectural and natural wonders that line the famed Georgian Military Road, winding through the dramatic Dariali Gorge. Travelers passing from Vladikavkaz to Tbilisi often pause here, captivated by its beauty. Tour guides bring wide-eyed visitors to admire the untouched splendor of nature, while pilgrims climb toward a modest hilltop church that symbolizes the profound harmony between human devotion and the majesty of the Caucasus.

From 1921 to 2007, Stepantsminda was known as Kazbegi, in honor of the beloved Georgian writer Alexander Kazbegi—a literary figure admired even by Joseph Stalin. It is widely believed that Stalin’s early pseudonym, “Koba,” was inspired by the name of the rebellious hero from Kazbegi’s novella The Patricide, a noble outlaw who stood against the wealthy in defense of the poor and downtrodden.

The name Stepantsminda translates to “Saint Stephen” and is rooted in a legend about a monk named Stepan who once lived in the nearby mountains. One day, he foresaw a deadly avalanche and warned the villagers just in time. The people fled and resettled in a safer location, naming the new village after the man who had saved their lives—Stepantsminda.

The village’s most striking asset is its breathtaking scenery. Towering emerald peaks rise skyward, as though trying to touch the heavens, while the air feels as clear and pure as crystal. The landscapes evoke deep reflection—on nature’s grandeur and the eternal truths it silently holds.

In recent years, Stepantsminda has experienced a boom in infrastructure, with new hotels emerging to accommodate the growing number of visitors. Though the village is home to just over a thousand residents, tourism has become the lifeblood of the local economy. Since 2012, the area has also become a haven for paragliders, who now offer tourists the opportunity to soar above the magnificent slopes of Kazbek for a bird’s-eye view of this awe-inspiring mountain.

Stepantsminda is also the base for ascents to Mount Kazbek. But make no mistake—this climb is not for the faint of heart. Towering at 5,033 meters, Kazbek is a formidable peak. Still, the Georgian approach to the summit is considered the more accessible route for those determined to make the attempt.

While travelers come primarily to witness the mesmerizing views of Kazbek—visible from almost every corner of the village—Stepantsminda boasts many other points of interest. Chief among them is the Gergeti Trinity Church, along with the Church of St. Nicholas, renowned for its intricate carvings and ornate patterns. There are also ancient Khevsurian tower-houses and the house-museum of the illustrious writer Alexander Kazbegi.

The most iconic of these sights is undoubtedly the Gergeti Trinity Church, perched high on a hill at nearly 2,000 meters above sea level. Built around the 10th century, the church’s exterior is adorned with reliefs and ornamental stonework. Inside, however, the contrast is stark: bare stone walls and a simple, gray floor greet visitors. Yet the church holds profound treasures—a fourth-century iconostasis and an icon of the Virgin Mary that miraculously survived a three-day fire set by communists in the 1930s.

Though many visitors hike to the church to marvel at the panoramic views from its perch, the climb is not easy. The path is steep, and only those in good physical condition are advised to make the trek. The road up is narrow and bumpy, so unless you’re in a sturdy off-road vehicle, the drive can be precarious.

Just outside Stepantsminda, the Georgian Military Road continues through the Dariali Gorge for around three kilometers—a popular tourist route steeped in both natural splendor and historical heritage. Early on this stretch stands the Friendship Arch, a Soviet-era monument to Russian-Georgian friendship, decorated with colorful mosaics and offering a panoramic viewing platform. Not far away lie the ruins of Queen Tamar’s Castle, with its ancient fortifications dating to the 2nd or 3rd centuries AD.

At the confluence of the Kistinka and Terek rivers rises another architectural gem—the Church of the Archangels Michael and Gabriel. Built from warm pink stone, this graceful structure features a cozy interior designed in the ancient Georgian style, radiating spiritual serenity.

The Alexander Kazbegi House-Museum in the heart of Stepantsminda serves both as a tribute to the writer and as a local ethnographic museum. The ground floor showcases artifacts including ancient coins, rare books, manuscripts, and documents chronicling the conquest of Kazbek and the construction of the Gergeti Trinity Church. It also features massive iron gates and chains that once sealed the entrance to the mysterious Bethlehem Cave. Upstairs, visitors can view Kazbegi’s study, personal manuscripts, published works, and illustrated editions of his stories.

Among the natural wonders surrounding Stepantsminda, the Keli Plateau lakes and the Gveleti Waterfall are especially noteworthy. The lakes of Archvebistba, Kelistba, and Kelitsadi form a closed hydrological system and are slowly drying up. Still, they remain among the most visually stunning landscapes in the region—if not the entire country. Consequently, the area has become a popular destination for mid-level trekking routes, though beginners without proper preparation may find the trails quite demanding.

The easiest route to Stepantsminda is from Tbilisi. Every day, minibuses depart from the Didube metro station in the capital. These vehicles don’t follow a strict timetable and typically leave once full, so it’s best to arrive early in the morning or call the station in advance. The journey covers just over 150 kilometers, but the road—though scenic—is challenging and takes about three and a half hours to traverse.