Gergeti

The Church of the Holy Trinity is steeped in legend and shrouded in myth. One enduring tale claims that the church was built atop an ancient pagan temple. According to local lore, even today, the clergy allegedly keep a stone idol in the shape of a ram hidden within the church. Originally, the church was erected to serve as a secret treasury for the Georgian Orthodox Church during times of foreign invasion, when Christian shrines were being desecrated by non-believers.

Constructed from massive stone blocks transported from a distant valley, the building process itself is the subject of another captivating legend. It is said that as the men working on the church ran out of stone, they went to sleep one evening, burdened by the thought of having to fetch more materials from afar. But when they awoke at dawn, they were stunned to find the church mysteriously completed, its dome already crowning the structure.

Built in the 14th century, the Gergeti Trinity Church stands as the oldest cross-domed architectural monument in the Khevi region. The monastic complex comprises the church itself and a separate bell tower. The interior of the sanctuary is austere and severe, much like the character of the mountain people who have guarded it for centuries. No frescoes adorn its walls; only a few faded fragments of ancient images remain—not for decoration, but as relics of historical value. Most of the stone walls remain unplastered, and due to the church’s narrow windows and lack of electricity, a solemn twilight reigns within.

Externally, the Holy Trinity Church is modestly decorated with bas-reliefs and stone carvings. The Gergeti Church is a two-story structure, yet its upper floor, which houses sacred relics and valuable artifacts, remains hidden from visitors and unknown to those unfamiliar with the building’s internal layout.

The sacred duty of safeguarding the church’s treasures was not entrusted solely to monks and clergy. It extended to the local villagers as well. In the past, men from Khevi and neighboring mountain communities were exempt from military conscription—even during the most harrowing wartime periods. These fearless warriors were tasked with the protection of the Gergeti Church and the sacred items entrusted to it. If ever a watchtower reported that the invading army was too vast for the local defenders to repel, the church’s treasures would be swiftly transported to the Bethlehem Cave for safekeeping.

At the close of the 20th century, a male monastic community was reestablished at Gergeti. Today, the church is not only a functioning place of worship but also one of Georgia’s most significant tourist attractions. The monks take great care to ensure that the sanctity of the site is respected by pilgrims and that the grounds are kept in order.

One of the church’s greatest draws for visitors is its breathtaking location. Set against the dramatic backdrop of the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus mountain range, the church and its bell tower are framed by one of nature’s most awe-inspiring sights—Mount Kazbek. On a clear day, the mountain’s majestic peak becomes visible behind the church, though the weather in these mountains is unpredictable. There is a widespread belief that the mountain only reveals its summit to those with a pure and radiant spirit.

Even in modern times, new legends continue to arise around the sacred site. In the 1930s, during the Soviet regime’s suppression of religious institutions, communist authorities banned worship, shut down the monastery, and reportedly set the church ablaze—icons and all. The flames roared for three days, yet the building itself remained unscathed. Only the image of the Virgin Mary on the miraculous icon of the Gergeti Mother of God darkened from the soot.

That very icon remains in the church to this day. Known as the Hodegetria, or “She Who Shows the Way,” it is a spiritual compass for many. People often speak of feeling uplifted and deeply moved in its presence. Painted on canvas in the 17th century, this miraculous image once drew pilgrims from as far as Krasnodar, Stavropol, and other parts of the North Caucasus, who traveled to pray before the revered icon.

On August 28, 1989, during the Feast of the Assumption, the faithful at Gergeti bore witness to what many describe as a divine miracle. As crowds of pilgrims and villagers gathered, the ethereal image of the Virgin Mary appeared, hovering in a misty light for twenty full minutes—an apparition that would be remembered and spoken of for generations.

Every year on July 16, Gergeti celebrates the festival of Gergetoba, a day known as “The Day of Spiritual Love.” On this special occasion, the entire village congregates at the church, and local travel agencies organize excursions to mark the event. Unlike the Western Valentine’s Day, Gergetoba is devoted not to romantic affection, but to divine, spiritual love—for God and the soul. Though the festival is observed across Georgia, it is at the Trinity Church that the celebration reaches its peak, with special prayers and religious services offered in honor of the day.