Chaukhi

Among Georgians, the village of Sno holds a special place—not only for its scenic beauty but because it is the birthplace of Ilia II, the current Patriarch of Georgia. His revered status among the people is hard to overstate. A testament to this deep respect can be found in a remarkable statistic: when the Patriarch publicly announced he would become the godfather of every third child born into Georgian families, the birth rate of third children increased by 25%. To this day, on specially designated dates, he travels to Georgia’s major cathedrals, performing mass baptisms, and now counts tens of thousands of godchildren across the nation.

Beyond this sacred association, Sno boasts a few notable landmarks, including the recently built Church of Saint King Vakhtang Gorgasali and the stylish Sno Hotel, whose elegant interiors are unexpectedly refined for such a small, remote village.

Yet, it is not Sno itself but the nearby village of Juta that draws adventurers and nature-lovers from around the world. They come for Mount Chaukhi, a striking and photogenic mountain massif considered one of the most visually stunning in all of Georgia.

The distance between Sno and Juta is 12 kilometers, but the journey feels longer—and wilder. While Sno is polished and paved, civilization seems to vanish the moment you leave its borders. Just three kilometers beyond the village, the asphalt ends and gives way to a bumpy gravel road. The route narrows dramatically, snaking along the steep mountain slopes, teetering above the rushing gorge of a mountain stream. On the right side, the precipitous drop is visible from your vehicle’s window—and it’s not unusual to find yourself gripping the seat or handrail just a bit tighter.

The highest peak of Chaukhi is its Northern Summit, standing proudly at 3,842 meters. The area is often referred to, unofficially, as the “Georgian Dolomites”, and it’s easy to see why. Around a dozen trekking routes crisscross the region, each offering different levels of difficulty and unique vantage points.

The base camp, located at 2,500 meters above sea level, offers amenities such as rooms, a café, restrooms, and even tent rentals. From here, hikers can set out on several trails, ranging from moderate climbs—like the ascent of Mount Mukhadze (3,250 meters)—to more demanding expeditions, such as the route to Tikanadze Peak via the Rcheulishvili Ridge and Saddle (3,620 meters).

One of the most picturesque treks begins in Juta, crosses the Chaukhi Pass, and continues to the Abudelauri Lakes, eventually reaching the remote village of Roshka in Khevsureti. From the pass, one can enjoy sweeping views of Mount Kazbek, while the Abudelauri Lakes, famed for their vibrant hues—White, Green, and Blue—dazzle with their color, caused by the mineral content in the water. Of the three, the Blue Lake is considered the most stunning.

In just a half-day’s outing, you can also reach a rocky ledge with cascading waterfalls and massive boulders that once broke free from Chaukhi’s cliffs. Today, climbers drive spikes into these fallen giants, using them for alpine training and practice.

But you don’t need to be a seasoned trekker to feel the magic of Chaukhi. Even a brief escape to this wilderness from Kazbegi or Gudauri can be enough—just a single day to breathe the crisp mountain air, gaze at the majestic peaks, and soak in the energy of a truly special place. All you need is a little luck with the weather.

For those who prefer not to hike the entire route, horses are available for hire to carry both people and heavy backpacks to the base camp. This is a common solution for climbers and serious hikers, but there are also easier alternatives.

Two shorter trails lead from the village of Chaukhi to Zeta Camping, a charming mountain lodge and campsite located on the way to base camp. One trail passes through the village itself, while the other loops around it. Zeta Camping is an ideal base for soft adventures: it offers accommodation in rooms or tents, a café, and even hot showers—a rare luxury at such altitudes. From here, you can embark on relaxed walks through the surroundings, soaking up the beauty of Georgia’s highlands without ever straying too far from comfort.