Khevsureti

Khevsureti is a breathtaking region nestled in the mountainous part of Georgia, partially located on the northern slopes of the Caucasus Range and partially on the southern side. It stands as the most remote area of Georgia if you travel north from Tbilisi. Inhabited by Orthodox Georgian-speaking Khevsurs, this region is renowned for its exotic mountain culture. Visitors flock to Khevsureti primarily for its stunning mountain vistas, ancient towers, and to witness the remnants of Khevsur culture.

The name “Khevi,” derived from Georgian, translates to “gorge” or “ravine,” aptly reflecting the area’s landscape, which is rich in gorges and towering mountains. During the Soviet era, this land was almost deserted as residents were forcibly relocated to the valleys. Today, only a few hundred families remain in the region, while the majority of the mountain dwellers have descended to the cities and villages of lowland Georgia. Currently, Khevsureti is the least populated and largely uncharted region, a fact that potential tourists should keep in mind as they explore the slopes, which are now beginning to attract a growing number of visitors.

The ancient history of the region is not well-documented. In antiquity, Khevsureti was inhabited by Caucasian ethnic groups closely related to the Ingush, who gradually adopted the Georgian language. Khevsureti became part of the Russian Empire only in 1813. In 1850, a devastating plague outbreak struck Khevsureti, affecting the Ardoti Gorge and the village of Anatori on the Arguni River, claiming approximately a thousand lives. Victims were buried in designated graveyards, many of which can still be seen today in Muco and near Anatori.

What is there to see in Khevsureti? Ethnography and its manifestations—towers, shrines, and folk festivals. Adventurers can hike the famous trekking route from Shatili to Muco or venture into the lesser-explored region of Archoti. The area boasts several significant historical and cultural monuments, alongside enchanting natural landscapes that make for stunning photographs. Unlike the well-trodden paths of Upper Svaneti, Khevsureti remains relatively untouched by mass tourism, which is undoubtedly a significant advantage.

Unfortunately, the tourist infrastructure is still in its infancy, but there is hope for future development. As the region lacks proper roads, it is advisable to travel to Khevsureti in off-road vehicles. For trekking enthusiasts, colorful routes have been established to enhance the adventure.

Due to the region’s limited development, internet connectivity is virtually nonexistent. Mobile internet in Shatili is available but unreliable, with Magti and Geocell offering the best coverage. Beyond Shatili, communication and internet access are nearly absent.

The best time to visit Khevsureti is from late May to mid-October. After this period, inclement weather and snow make it impossible to access the area by car, as the mountain pass is closed. Helicopter flights operate weekly for border guards and a few residents who remain for the winter.

In terms of safety, the Khevsurs, despite their reputation as a warrior people, are known for their hospitality. A guest is considered a sacred individual in Khevsur culture, and visitors can expect nothing but smiles and warmth, along with a willingness to help and guide.

However, there is a degree of danger in the region, particularly from wild predators and… dogs. In Khevsureti, dogs are often used to herd livestock, and shepherds are not always present. Therefore, despite the temptation, it is best to keep your distance from the sheep. If a shepherd is nearby, they will approach you. Generally, the dogs do not exhibit aggression, but as the saying goes, “better safe than sorry.”

If you do encounter a flock and dogs come rushing towards you, it is advisable to follow the advice from a 1970s article about Khevsureti:

“Meetings with the flock are always accompanied by an unpleasant procedure. Upon spotting us, guard dogs come charging forward. Huge dogs resembling polar bears, wearing wide collars to prevent wolves from seizing them by the throat. The dogs bark furiously, their growls escalating into yelps and howls, as they seem desperate to tear us apart. We know that if we calmly sit on the ground, the dogs will not harm us. Yet, the nagging thought persists—do all the dogs understand these rules? So we sit, waiting for the shepherd in a large cloak to arrive. Only then do the dogs lose interest in us.”

The most popular and convenient place to stay overnight is Shatili. However, you should only expect simple rural guesthouses here. In some locations, such as Jurkha’s Shatili Tower, you can even find rooms in an authentic ancient tower! The region has virtually no shops and no cafes, so it’s best to bring food and water with you for your trip. It is advisable to travel to Khevsureti only in an off-road vehicle.

Undoubtedly, this is one of the most beautiful places in Georgia, and it is worth a visit. If you’re not planning on multi-day treks with overnight camping, then two to three days will be sufficient to get acquainted with the region. A journey to Khevsureti will leave you with lasting memories of breathtaking landscapes and the remarkable culture of the hospitable, smiling mountaineers.