“We are a dead people. We have lived in stone dens for a thousand years, all the same and all unchanged! What do we have? Half-raw meat, dry flatbreads, a horse, a saber.”
— from the novella by Arkady Gaidar, “The Riders of the Impassable Mountains.”
In the words of writer Arkady Gaidar, this wild land of dying knights, iron chainmail, and stone castles is not fond of outsiders. Much of his narrative has faded from view; there are no longer knights or iron armor, nor the fierce and savage customs of old. Yet the castles remain, nestled among the mountain ranges, along with numerous gorges. It is no coincidence that the very essence of “Khevsureti” is rooted in the word “gorge.”
Khevsureti is an ideal destination for ethnographic exploration and trekking, attracting tourists eager to experience its unique offerings. The region boasts several significant historical and cultural monuments, alongside enchanting natural landscapes that transform photographs into masterpieces. Unlike the well-trodden paths of Upper Svaneti, Khevsureti remains relatively untouched by mass tourism, which is undoubtedly a significant advantage. Unfortunately, the tourist infrastructure is still in its infancy, but there is hope that improvements are on the horizon.
Historically, Khevsureti has been divided into two parts: Inner and Outer Khevsureti. The Outer Khevsureti, home to the fortress town of Shatili and the ghost town of Muco, is considered the most inaccessible. The journey from Tbilisi to Shatili is long, winding through mountains, and until it is fully traversed, it seems endlessly prolonged—much like any unfamiliar 150-kilometer road, which off-road vehicles navigate in about 5 to 6 hours, with breaks along the way.
Shatili itself consists of two sections: the new and the old. The lower part, situated at the foot of the mountain where the Shatiliskali River rushes to meet the Argun River, welcomes tourists. The old Shatili, the very reason these tourists venture into the village, is an impregnable fortress built by the Khevsurs in medieval times. For centuries, the fortress of Shatili has stood as the heart of Outer Khevsureti.
To truly appreciate the fortress, one must step back and take in the entire structure. Only from a distance can one grasp the impressive complexity of interwoven houses and towers, some reaching three stories or more, constructed from slate slabs without any binding mortar. Visitors can wander through the stone labyrinths of the fortress, easily losing themselves in its maze-like passages. The narrow vertical streets lead upwards in steep steps. The intricate interconnections and labyrinthine paths are not the only remarkable features of this fortress, which has survived to the present day almost unchanged. Its uniqueness lies in its layout, allowing one to traverse the fortress without descending, moving freely between towers via internal staircases and roofs, thanks to a simple yet effective architectural design. Almost all the structures are connected by bridges at various levels.
Why was this fortified house, a stronghold of 60 towers, built in these high mountains that seem to securely guard against unwanted intruders? Researchers estimate that even in the most turbulent times, only about 200 people lived in Khevsureti. The answer is evident. The same gorges and mountains that the Khevsurs called home were also inhabited by Chechens, who practiced Islam, unlike the Khevsurs, who preferred the cross to the crescent moon. To protect their families from the raids of neighboring warriors of a different faith and to block access to Inner Khevsureti, they needed the defensive walls of a powerful fortress like this one.
The fortress is only a few kilometers from the current border with modern Chechnya, which explains the numerous labyrinths, openings, and elevated entrances that hindered unwanted elements from entering. The lower floors were designated for various livestock, while food supplies were stored higher up, with the uppermost levels reserved for human habitation.
The last resident of the fortress town departed its gloomy walls in the 1950s. Since then, only roaming red cows and curious tourists wander the grounds, with no one living there except for a balcony draped in cloth, suggesting the possibility of a guesthouse being established within one of the rooms for those who wish to enrich their experience with a taste of medieval Spartan life.
The Anatory burial mounds stand as grim monuments to a devastating plague, possibly the black smallpox, that decimated the Khevsurs in the mid-19th century. Within these mounds lie numerous human bones, a haunting testament to the past. It is said that those afflicted with the disease made their way there on their own, seeking solace in the place where they awaited their fate. The burial site comprises a small single-story structure, but entry is prohibited due to the absence of a door. Sturdy grates cover the small windows, behind which the plague-stricken found their final resting place. For those with a sensitive disposition, it is advisable to refrain from visiting this somber location.
Warning! The burial mounds are situated on the edge of a high cliff. Exercise extreme caution and attentiveness while exploring this area.
Mutso is a fortress that defends the northern borders of the country. Located north of Shatili, it is connected by a 12-kilometer trail that has become a popular trekking route. Although it is possible to traverse this path by off-road vehicle, the journey takes about an hour due to the terrain, despite the relatively short distance.
According to legend, Mutso was constructed by the Great Queen Tamar specifically to safeguard the northern frontiers. Another tale claims that the great Khevsur warrior Torgvai decided to build the fortress, rallying all the Khevsurs to form a human chain from the village of Anatori, passing stones hand-to-hand to erect the fortress in a single day.
The exact time when the fortress fell into disuse remains a mystery; some say it was after the destructive campaign of Simonovich, while others believe it was abandoned earlier. By the mid-19th century, it was already deserted. With the growth of tourism, the ruins of Mutso have undergone restoration.
Five kilometers from Mutso lies the now almost deserted village of Adruti, which once thrived but now is home to only one family. This is the last village in the region.
The Bear Cross Pass, reaching an elevation of 2,677 meters above sea level, is perched atop one of the peaks of the Caucasus Range, dividing Khevsureti into two distinct parts. The journey across the pass is the longest and slowest segment of the route, yet the breathtaking views that unfold before you will remain etched in your memory for a lifetime. Be sure to stop at the highest point of the pass; no photograph can capture the beauty and vastness of the landscape that stretches out before you. At the summit, it is typically cool, with a piercing wind that sweeps across the peak.
The Abudelauri Lakes are a notable attraction in Southern Khevsureti, located near the village of Roshka. These three small lakes are named for the colors of the water they hold: White, Blue, and Green. They are scattered across altitudes ranging from 2,600 to 2,800 meters above sea level. Streams flow from these lakes, forming the Abudelauri River, which meanders through the valley of the same name. A journey to the lakes can easily take a full day.
The first lake encountered by travelers departing from Roshka is the Green Lake, which is small and relatively unremarkable. It earns its name from the reflection of the surrounding grassy meadows in its waters. Campers can set up tents here if they plan to ascend to the Chaukhi Pass.
Next on the journey is the Blue Lake, particularly picturesque during the rainy season, when the vibrant bloom of rhododendrons can be seen. Unlike the Green Lake, the Blue Lake is surrounded not by meadows but by rocks left behind from ancient volcanic eruptions. Many tourists choose to camp at this lake, especially on weekends when it attracts numerous visitors.
The White Lake is located 200 meters higher than the Blue Lake. However, to the traveler, it feels as though it exists in a completely different climatic and geographical zone. The White Lake lacks rhododendrons and has almost no grass; the water, a color reminiscent of heavily diluted milk, is surrounded by lifeless heaps of stones. Situated at an altitude of 2,815 meters, it is the highest lake accessible to ordinary travelers. Only Lake Kelitsadi lies higher, but it can only be reached by climbers equipped with professional gear. The two lower lakes are part of the trekking route to Juta, while the White Lake remains slightly off the main path.
