Shatili

Nestled within the dramatic Arghuni gorge at an altitude of approximately 1,400 meters, Shatili is a Khevsurian village celebrated for its extraordinary fortification architecture. Unlike other mountain settlements, where isolated towers dot the landscape, Shatili presents a cohesive complex—a true fortress characterized by its sophisticated design. While all Georgian mountain villages feature some form of fortifications, the most significant structures were typically built in border regions. Shatili, located on the border with Chechnya, reflects the seriousness of its historical context, facing northward as a vigilant guardian of the land.

As the most expressive and renowned village in Khevsureti, Shatili is easily accessible by road and attracts many visitors on weekends. This unique ensemble of medieval to early modern fortresses and fortified dwellings, constructed from stone and mortar, served both as a residential area and a stronghold protecting the northeastern fringes of Georgia. The fortress comprises terraced structures dominated by flat-roofed dwellings and approximately 60 towers that cluster together, forming a continuous chain of fortifications.

Today, Shatili is home to a handful of families, although it becomes inaccessible by road during the winter months.

The origins of this settlement remain shrouded in mystery. It is said that people have lived here since the earliest historical epochs. Archaeological evidence suggests that Shatili took on its current form in the 14th century, possibly linked to the arrival of the Mongols in the North Caucasus and the decline of Christianity in the region.

Historically, the residents of Shatili were warriors, engaged in conflicts with the Chechens. The surrounding area was the site of intermittent skirmishes and significant battles. In 1813, the Russian army entered the gorge, and after the battles at Gudo and a second confrontation near Shatili itself, the village was captured by General Simanovich and burned, along with several neighboring villages.

The most notable battle for Shatili occurred in 1843 when the Chechen army led by Akhverdiy-Magomed (a commander under Imam Shamil) launched an attack on the village. The Chechens suffered heavy losses, including their commander and over 100 men, while the Khevsurs lost just two.

By the early 20th century, Shatili found itself cut off from the outside world. The Kistin people were enemies, as were the Pshavs, and the Shatili residents had also quarreled with the inhabitants of Barisakho, making it dangerous for them to venture into Inner Khevsureti. From 1914 to 1923, the village saw no visitors from the outside world until the proletarian journalist Zinaida Richter broke this isolation.

By the late 1920s, peace returned to the region, but in 1953, many Khevsurs were partially resettled to the plains of Gardabani and Dedoplistskaro. Since then, Shatili has remained largely uninhabited, with few people living directly in the stone houses, particularly given the lack of infrastructure. Displaced Khevsurs gradually returned but chose to settle nearby rather than in the stone towers, leading to the establishment of New Shatili, located slightly higher and south of the old village.

Today, Shatili is a complex of buildings scattered across a small valley, consisting of several distinct parts. The main feature is the fortress city itself, Old Shatili, which comprises a group of stone tower-houses perched on a rocky outcrop on the left bank of the Argun River. Nearby lies a hill and a patch of forest, known as the Dzhvari, which serves as a sacred site. Beyond the sanctuary and slightly higher up are the houses of New Shatili, a typical modern village. To the north of Old Shatili flows a stream, beyond which are a few more houses. On the right bank of the Argun, additional structures can be found. At the beginning of the valley, on a hill, stands what can be loosely termed the Shatili watchtower. This is the extent of the settlement. A road leads north toward Anatori and Muco, and just two kilometers away lies the Anatori plague cemetery—no longer part of Shatili, but in close proximity.

During weekdays, the village is tranquil and deserted, prompting many to visit on weekends and holidays. However, weekends can sometimes lead to overcrowding, with all guesthouses fully booked. The choice of when to visit is yours to make.

Visitors can move freely throughout Shatili without tickets, entering the towers and even spending the night if they wish. Unfortunately, the wooden beams in all the towers have rotted or burned, making some areas inaccessible. One tower features a plaque indicating that it was constructed by a Russian general as a tribute to the heroic defense against the Dagestanis in a specific year. However, adventurers can still discover storerooms filled with ancient jars, grinding stones, and other mysterious artifacts. Wandering between the houses is an intriguing experience in itself. A stream flows along the northern side of the village, accompanied by a non-operational water mill. Beyond the stream, a few more houses remain, though they are in a state of significant disrepair.

Every Khevsurian village has its sacred site, known in Khevsureti as the “Dzhvari.” This is where religious ceremonies take place, and where rams are offered as sacrifices, serving as the exact equivalent of the Tushian “nishi.” The Shatili Dzhvari encompasses a fairly expansive area, situated between Old and New Shatili. It begins right at the edge of Old Shatili and is enclosed by a fence, with signs reading “Access Denied” posted in various locations. Generally, entry to the Dzhvari is prohibited for women, but in Shatili, the decision was made to restrict access entirely to outsiders, avoiding lengthy discussions about local customs. This means that theoretically, men can enter, but it is advisable to seek permission first—ideally accompanied by a local resident. It is said that gaining access is easier during major celebrations.

From Shatili, one can clearly see a peculiar fortification on the hill above the Argun River. It seems that in the past, the path to Shatili passed through this hill, and the tower was constructed to block access to the village. Although it is now significantly damaged, its design makes it difficult to enter. There is nothing particularly noteworthy inside.