Georgian Military Highway

Stretching from the city of Vladikavkaz in the north to the southern slopes of the Caucasus Mountains, the Georgian Military Highway carves its way through the Mtskheta-Mtianeti region—a territory as rich in history as it is in breathtaking landscapes. The administrative heart of this region is the ancient town of Mtskheta, the former capital of Georgia and a cradle of early Christianity in the Caucasus.

Mtskheta-Mtianeti is a land of majestic mountain scenery, where steep cliffs and winding rivers give way to picturesque valleys and historic relics. The Georgian Military Highway, a vital arterial route through this terrain, is undoubtedly among the most visually striking roads in the world.

Construction of the highway began at the end of the 18th century, following the Treaty of Georgievsk in 1783, which placed the Kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti under the protection of the Russian Empire.

With the establishment of Vladikavkaz—Russia’s key stronghold in the Caucasus—the empire spent the next 14 years (from 1785 to 1799) replacing old mountain trails with a formal roadway. It was along this route that Russian troops marched into the Caucasus, and many illustrious figures journeyed southward—among them Pushkin, Lermontov, and Griboyedov.

In some areas, the road was literally carved out of the mountain rock. For nearly two centuries, this highway served as the primary connection between Russia and Georgia—and beyond, to the wider Transcaucasian region.

Almost every stretch of the Georgian Military Highway offers unforgettable views, particularly through the dramatic gorges of Darial and Gudauri, as well as the area around the Zhinvali Reservoir and the towering Cross Pass.

The best way to explore this legendary route is by car—either driving southward from the Russian border to Tbilisi or in reverse if you’re starting in the Georgian capital and heading north in a rented vehicle.

The full journey from the border to Tbilisi takes approximately three and a half to four hours without stops. However, to fully appreciate the landmarks and natural beauty along the way, you’ll need at least a full day.

If you’re traveling in your own vehicle (and it’s not an SUV), it’s wise to undertake this trip only during the summer months. In winter, the road north of the Cross Pass is often buried under thick snow and closed for extended periods.

For example, a landslide in May 2014 blocked the road for three weeks, and in December 2016, access to Gudauri was only possible from the south via Tbilisi, as the section between Gudauri and the Russian border was completely cut off by heavy snowfalls.

The ancient capital of Georgia, Mtskheta has long been a cultural crossroads, shaped in no small part by foreign influence. King Vakhtang Gorgasali—of Persian origin—moved the capital from Mtskheta to the newly founded city of Tbilisi.

It was here that Saint Nino, a devout Christian woman of Greek descent, passionately preached the Gospel and transformed Mtskheta into a pivotal center of Christianization in Georgia.

Today, Mtskheta is a charming, restored town often likened to a “Georgian Suzdal.” Its old churches, storied past, and steady flow of tourists make it a destination not to be missed.

To properly explore Mtskheta, set aside at least 3–4 hours. Ideally, devote a full day, especially considering travel time to and from Tbilisi.

Even better, spend the night in Mtskheta. The next morning, you’ll be well-positioned to continue northward toward Ananuri and Gudauri—or to return to Tbilisi at a more leisurely pace.

Coordinates: 41.86236, 44.6402 – 37 km from Tbilisi

This secluded monastery was founded by Saint Shio, a disciple and companion of Saint John of Zedazeni (whom we’ll meet later).

Saint Shio spent 15 years in a cave-cell, never emerging into daylight, devoted entirely to prayer by the glow of an oil lamp. His food and water were lowered to him via a rope through a narrow shaft.

Inspired by his example, many of the monastery’s monks took to living in caves themselves, hollowing out the surrounding mountain slope. At its height, the cave complex could accommodate up to 2,000 inhabitants.

Shio-Mgvime is regarded as a sacred and deeply spiritual place. Its subterranean chapel draws pilgrims from across Georgia, especially couples hoping to conceive a child—many of whom come seeking miracles.

How to get there:
The only way to reach the monastery from Tbilisi is by car. Road S150 is in poor condition, particularly after rain. From Mtskheta, it’s possible to hire a taxi or attempt the 12 km journey on foot.

Coordinates: 41.87126, 44.76527

Zedazeni Monastery crowns one of the Saguramo Mountains, offering awe-inspiring vistas of Mtskheta with its sunlit domes, the revered Jvari Monastery, and the valley where the Aragvi and Kura rivers—Lermontov’s “two sisters”—converge. Nearby, the Shavnabada Monastery on the adjacent ridge adds even more to the spiritual atmosphere.

According to ancient legend, a pagan idol once stood on the very spot where the monastery now rises. Villagers from all around would gather to worship there. At that time, Christianity was largely confined to the nobility, while the common people clung to the ancestral beliefs of their forebears.

It was during this era that 13 Syrian Fathers—Christian missionaries—arrived in Mtskheta, determined to spread Christianity and monastic life throughout the land. One of them, Saint John, chose to build his hermitage precisely where the idol had stood, symbolically supplanting the old faith.

His companions scattered across Georgia. Saint David established the legendary David Gareja Monastery in Kakheti, and Saint Shio founded the retreat at Mgvime.

Saint John remained in his tiny cell for the rest of his life, even as his followers built a large monastery further down the slope. There he was laid to rest, and in the 8th century, the main basilica was built above his tomb.

How to get there from Tbilisi:
The final leg of the road is mountainous and difficult. Unless you’re confident driving in such conditions, it’s best not to go alone.

Take a marshrutka (minibus) to Saguramo from the station near “Didube” metro station. Ask the driver to drop you at the turnoff for Zedazeni Monastery. From there, prepare for a steep 5 km uphill hike to reach the summit.

Coordinates: 41.91965, 44.72791
Natakhtari is best known for its brewery, famed not only for its beer but also for its excellent lemonades. Another notable feature is its small private airport, from which a 20-seater turboprop aircraft can whisk you away to the mountainous heart of Svaneti—Mestia—in just about an hour. 

Just 35 kilometers along the Georgian Military Road, near the Zhinvali Dam, lies a key crossroads. From here, a scenic route branches off to the northeast, leading adventurers toward Khevsureti.
Together with Tusheti and Svaneti, Khevsureti is among Georgia’s most captivating highland regions.
Coordinates for the turnoff to Shatili (Khevsureti’s unofficial capital): 42.11839, 44.77528.

Coordinates: 41.95957, 44.61814
Once one of the wealthiest cities in ancient Iberia, Dzalisi was immortalized by Claudius Ptolemy, who referred to it as “Zalissa” in his geographical writings.

Today, only the ruins of that ancient splendor remain—most of them yet untouched by restoration, though some archaeological work is in progress.
Among the remnants, you’ll find the foundations of palaces, noble residences, a fortified acropolis, public baths, and even the barracks once used by the city guard. A significant section of the original aqueduct system has also survived.

Perhaps the most extraordinary discovery is a vivid mosaic found in one of the patrician homes—an artistic marvel believed by experts to date back to the 4th century BCE.

How to Get There:
Dzalisi is nestled in the Mukhrani Valley, approximately 40 km from Tbilisi and 20 km from Mtskheta. Visitors can reach the site either by private car or by marshrutka (shared minibus) heading to the villages of Mukhrani or Dzalisi.

Coordinates: 42.04, 44.6846
This enchanting volcanic lake lies just 60 kilometers from Tbilisi and serves as a beloved summer retreat for those who can’t make it to Batumi, yet wish to avoid the crowded beaches of the Tbilisi Sea.

Bazaleti is famous for its therapeutic algae, believed to aid in the treatment of cardiovascular, gynecological, musculoskeletal, and dermatological conditions.

Centuries ago, the shores of the lake were home to a bustling medieval settlement. Today, the area is experiencing a renaissance, with new hotels and health resorts springing up along the lakeside.

How to Get There from Tbilisi:
Marshrutkas depart from the station near Didube metro station.

Coordinates: 42.16365, 44.70268
Ananuri is perhaps the most iconic medieval fortress in Georgia, cherished for both its impressive state of preservation and its striking location. Nestled along the Georgian Military Highway, it’s nearly impossible to miss this grand structure. For comparison, the only other major surviving fortress of its kind in Georgia—Gremi—is located in the region of Kakheti.

One of the finest panoramic views of the Zhinvali Reservoir can be enjoyed from the car bridge near the fortress, which forms part of the Military Highway itself.

Just a short distance from Ananuri, alongside the road, stands a solemn monument—the “300 Aragvians” Memorial:

This tribute honors the legendary warriors from the Aragvi Valley who courageously fought against Persian forces during the Battle of Krtsanisi in 1795.
Coordinates of the “300 Aragvians” Monument: 42.12986, 44.77182.

Near the village of Mleta lies the invisible yet tense boundary between Georgia and South Ossetia. High atop Mount Lomisi, at an elevation of 2,452 meters, stands a revered namesake monastery that draws worshippers from far and wide.

Every July, locals celebrate the festival of Lomisoba—a deeply cherished tradition among the mountain dwellers. Admittedly, the region’s sheep likely hold a different opinion: many meet their fate during this festival, which features ritual slaughter, roasted meat, wine, and heartfelt Georgian songs echoing through the valleys.

The best time to hike to the monastery is precisely during Lomisoba. At other times, visitors may encounter scrutiny from both Georgian and Ossetian police—as well as Russian soldiers stationed along the South Ossetian border.

Trailhead Coordinates to Lomisi Monastery: 42.42929, 44.50768.
Just south of Mleta begins the region known as Mtiuleti, centered around the mountain town of Pasanauri. This stretch of the Georgian Military Road is dotted with several ancient watchtowers—silent sentinels of the highlands.

Coordinates: 42.43451, 44.49737
The village of Kaishauri holds a unique place in literary history—it was immortalized by Mikhail Lermontov in his famous novel A Hero of Our Time. It is here that the enigmatic protagonist Pechorin first meets the seasoned officer Maxim Maximych and hires oxen to transport his belongings up the mountains.

To the north of Kaishauri begins one of the most breathtaking and challenging mountain serpentines in Georgia. This dizzying stretch of road climbs nearly 1,000 meters in elevation over just 7 kilometers, unfolding across six winding tiers that test both the skill of the driver and the endurance of the vehicle. The ascent rewards you with stunning views and a sense of having truly entered the heart of the Caucasus.

Coordinates: 42.43914, 44.49384
Do not miss the “Cross” viewpoint—an unassuming but utterly rewarding stop along the Georgian Military Highway. This is the first truly remarkable mountain vista on your journey heading north from the south.

From this vantage point, visitors are treated to sweeping panoramas of the surrounding peaks, valleys, and winding roads. However, due to its inconspicuous location just off the main road, it’s easy to pass by without noticing. Keep an eye on your GPS and signage so you don’t miss this awe-inspiring overlook.

Coordinates: 42.47088, 44.49187 (base station of the ski lift)
Gudauri is one of Georgia’s five ski resorts, sharing the national winter spotlight with Bakuriani, Goderdzi, Tetnuldi, and Hatsvali. Yet it is Gudauri that reigns as the most popular, thanks to its proximity to both Tbilisi and the Russian border.

The resort is praised for its European-style slopes and quality infrastructure, offering an experience that rivals some Alpine destinations. And the pricing? Let’s just say it might bring a tear to the eye of anyone accustomed to the steep rates at Russia’s Rosa Khutor.

There’s some misinformation floating around online claiming that the cable car to Mount Sadzele operates in summer. Unfortunately, that’s not the case—at least not in August, when all the lifts are typically closed.

Still, near the 5-star Marco Polo Hotel, you’ll find a decent viewpoint offering panoramic views of the southern Caucasus mountain range—especially those just past the Cross Pass. While it may not outshine the vistas from the Cross itself, it’s conveniently located and worth a brief stop if you’re passing through Gudauri on the Military Road.

Gudauri is also a practical overnight option for those exploring the Georgian Military Highway. The town boasts a wide range of hotels and rental apartments, though accommodation here tends to be more expensive compared to places like Stepantsminda or Mtskheta. Such is the nature of a ski resort.

Getting to Gudauri from Tbilisi is simple: marshrutkas (minibuses) depart from the Didube Bus Station and will take you there in about three hours for 10 GEL.

Important Note:
During winter, the section of the Military Highway between the Russian border and Gudauri is often closed due to heavy snowfall and avalanche risks. If you’re planning a ski trip to Gudauri, it’s safest to fly directly into Tbilisi and take a marshrutka from there—the stretch of road between Tbilisi and Gudauri remains reliably open even in harsh winter conditions.

A short distance from Gudauri lies a fascinating natural attraction: a mineral waterfall, whose coordinates are N42°31.900; E44°28.350.

Coordinates: 42.50466, 44.45381

A true friend stands beside you – misfortune cannot shake his hand.
He gives his heart for a heart, and love is the guiding star along the way.
— Shota Rustaveli (Military-Georgian Road, Cross Pass, inscription on the viewing platform)

This is the highest point along the historic Military-Georgian Road, reaching an altitude of 2,395 meters. If the Darial Gorge marks the boundary between nations, then the Cross Pass is the dividing line of the Caucasus itself: to its north lies the North Caucasus, and to the south, the South.

In 1824, a modest cross-shaped monument was erected here, giving the pass its Russian name. Later, the “Friendship of Nations” monument was built nearby, designed as a sweeping panoramic platform.

For those with an adventurous spirit, tandem paragliding is available just a short walk from the monument. The flight lasts 20–25 minutes and soars above the winding Military-Georgian Road, priced at 300 lari. I didn’t try it myself, but the instructor hinted that the ride includes a few “aerial acrobatic tricks.”

Coordinates for the Kobi station: 42.55702, 44.49756

This is Georgia’s highest cable car line. It connects the village of Kobi, which lies off the Military-Georgian Road at the entrance to the Truso Gorge, with the ski resort of Gudauri.

Spanning more than 7 kilometers, the cableway reaches a maximum altitude of 2,946 meters, with the lower station at 2,701 meters. You can choose between two routes: a longer round trip that takes about an hour, and a shorter one lasting 40 minutes. It operates year-round from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM.

Coordinates of the trailhead: 42.58106, 44.46443

Truso Gorge (or Trusokhevi) is a hidden treasure of northern Georgia, long forgotten and barely accessible—once reachable only by footpaths. A new road now traces the Terek River, making it possible to drive all the way to the gorge’s entrance.

At times, the road clings to the edge of sheer cliffs, testing your nerves—but the panoramic views more than compensate. Truso is an immersion in untouched nature, in silence so profound it’s almost spiritual. You’ll encounter abandoned medieval villages marked by ancient watchtowers, once alive with people who were eventually driven out by the harsh mountain life.

Long ago, fires were lit nightly in these towers, cowbells chimed at the village gates, and the gentle strum of the chonguri filled the alleys. If you’ve seen the film Going Vertical, you might recognize one of its Georgian scenes set here.

Often called the “Valley of Narzans,” Truso is also home to many mineral springs and stunning limestone travertine formations that seem sculpted by nature’s hand.

Coordinates: 42.60328, 44.5804

This quaint location will delight fans of Ilf and Petrov. It was here that Ostap Bender danced the lezginka to the cries of “Give me the money! Show me the cash!”, delivering his classic line: “Alpine beggary – a holy endeavor.”

Beyond its literary fame, Sioni is also known for the Sioni Church—one of the oldest and most revered churches in Georgia.

Coordinates: 42.62576, 44.61235

About four kilometers south of Stepantsminda lies a turnoff into the breathtakingly beautiful Sno Gorge. Its crown jewel is Mount Chauhi—perhaps the most photogenic peak in the region.

From the turnoff, it’s another three kilometers to the village of Sno, via a well-paved road. However, the journey beyond that—to the mountain village of Juta and the base camp for Chauhi hikes—requires a high-clearance vehicle, as the road turns into a rough, unpaved track.

Besides Chauhi, Sno Gorge is also famous for its giant stone-carved heads and its majestic views of Mount Kazbek (Kazbegi, in Georgian).

Coordinates: 42.66236, 44.62037

Gergeti is a mountain peak that rises close to Kazbek and is renowned for the Gergeti Trinity Church—one of Georgia’s most ancient and venerated Christian landmarks.

Before Georgia came under Russian protection, the country suffered frequent invasions—by Arabs, Persians, and Turks. As most of these invaders were Muslim, Orthodox churches could not expect mercy. During each new wave of conquest, sacred relics and icons were transported for safekeeping to this secluded mountain sanctuary.

During one Persian invasion, for example, the Cross of Saint Nino was brought to Gergeti Trinity Church before eventually being returned to the Sioni Cathedral in Tbilisi.

There is something profoundly atmospheric and spiritually charged about Gergeti. I’m not usually one to be swayed by “places of power,” but this one is genuinely extraordinary.

Coordinates: 42.65819, 44.64095

Once called Kazbegi, this settlement was renamed in honor of Saint Stephen (Stepan). It is the last sizeable town before the border, making it an excellent base for exploring the region—especially for treks into the surrounding mountains, including mighty Kazbek.

The central square features a statue of writer Alexander Kazbegi, who was born in a small mountain village nearby. Stalin was said to be an admirer of his work. In fact, according to one theory, the future “Father of Nations” borrowed his revolutionary alias “Koba” from the name of a central character in Kazbegi’s novella The Parricide—a noble bandit and fighter for justice.

Coordinates: 42.71079, 44.62561 (parking area)

Just four kilometers from the border lie two enchanting waterfalls, nestled in a fragrant juniper grove. If time permits, it’s well worth taking the easy hike—just 1.5 kilometers each way. The walk is short, the scenery lovely, and the reward is pure mountain serenity.

The Darial Gorge, through which the surging Terek River flows, was once called the “Gate of the Caucasus.” Today, it marks the border between Russia and Georgia.

This legendary gorge inspired such literary giants as Pushkin (in A Journey to Arzrum) and Lermontov, who featured it in his poem The Demon.

On the Russian side, the border post is called Verkhny Lars, while the Georgian checkpoint is known as Dariali (formerly Kazbegi).

The setting is utterly dramatic. On the Russian side, the imposing Darial Fortress still stands watch over the gorge. There is no bridge here—one must ford the Terek to reach it. Below the fortress, a Soviet-era bunker carved into the rock remains preserved, a relic of the brutal battles between Red Army soldiers and the Edelweiss Alpine Division.

Near Georgia’s Dariali checkpoint stands the Orthodox Church of the Holy Archangels Michael and Gabriel—a solemn spiritual presence amid the wild grandeur of the mountains.