High in the mountains of Georgia lies perhaps the most captivating and mysterious region in the entire country—Svaneti. Here, in ancestral stone homes crowned with watchtowers, lives a proud and deeply unique people—the Svans—guardians of ancient traditions and an indomitable spirit.
At the very edge of Eastern Svaneti, nestled at an elevation of 2,200 meters, sits Ushguli, the highest permanently inhabited community in all of Europe. Not just a single village, but a cluster of four small settlements—Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi, and Murkmeli—Ushguli lies at the source of the Enguri River, beneath the majestic snow-capped peak of Mount Shkhara, which rises to 5,068 meters. Though only 33 kilometers east of the district center Mestia, Ushguli feels like a world apart—the most remote and isolated corner of Georgia. Reaching it is no small feat, and for many, especially when journeying via the rugged Lower Svaneti road, the adventure itself becomes a badge of honor.
Approaching from the east, the first village that greets the traveler is Zhibiani, where a grove and a small church lie just 140 meters off the main road. Further along stands the legendary Lamara Church, adorned with ancient frescoes and enclosed by a low stone wall, beside which rises a solitary defensive tower. Together, they form a striking silhouette, almost like a medieval fortress. Despite its fortress-like appearance, Lamaria is, in essence, a men’s monastery—sacred and solemn. Between Zhibiani and the Lamaria monastery, tucked on a hillside, stands a humble white shrine—the Dzhgrag or Church of St. George. A modern informational display now marks its significance, though its modest presence belies its spiritual importance within the Svan community.
Zhibiani is also known for an unusual architectural gem—a rare twin-towered structure, unique even within Svaneti.
Beyond Zhibiani, the next village is Chvibiani, where a church stands close to the road, surrounded by several watchtowers. Chvibiani serves as the heart of the Ushguli community in every sense. This is where most guesthouses, the local museum, and the charming “Cats Café” are located—the latter offering spectacular views of Mount Shkhara.
Crossing the Enguri River, you arrive at Chazhashi, the third village. This settlement feels like an open-air museum, remarkably well-preserved and seemingly untouched by modern tourist infrastructure. There are no guesthouses, no cafés here—only cobbled paths, ancient homes, and a quiet, unfiltered authenticity. The Chazhashi towers, distinct in form, are capped not with shingles but with stone slate, setting them apart from other Svan towers.
Close to the road, perched on a small rise, stands the Lower Chazhashi Castle, once enclosed by walls and unmistakably fortress-like during the early Soviet period. According to local lore, the castle was dismantled by Soviet authorities to make room for a cattle barn—a story that still stirs quiet resentment among the older residents. Further uphill, beyond the trees, lies the Upper Chazhashi Castle, which legend claims once served as the residence of Queen Tamar, Georgia’s revered medieval monarch. Whether fact or myth, this belief continues to shape the soul of Ushguli’s identity.
West of the Enguri bridge, about a kilometer away, sits the fourth and final village—Murkmeli, home to the Church of the Savior and the Church of St. Barbara. Though quieter and less visited, Murkmeli holds its own historic charm.
Owing to its remarkably preserved medieval architecture and cultural integrity, Ushguli has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Many of the structures in the community date back to the 9th and 10th centuries, although archaeological evidence suggests human settlement here long before that. Ushguli’s isolation helped safeguard its heritage: though just 7 kilometers from the nearest community of Kala, much of the route winds through a perilous, narrow gorge, rendering travel difficult and dangerous for centuries. This natural seclusion allowed Ushguli to preserve its ancient ways and architecture nearly untouched by time.
Today, Ushguli is home to around 70 families. In 1987, a devastating avalanche struck the village of Murkmeli, forcing many residents to relocate to Kvemo Kartli. Yet the spirit of the community endures, etched into every tower and stone path, standing defiant under the shadow of Shkhara, as if time itself pauses to breathe in this alpine sanctuary.
The main attractions of Ushguli are the villages themselves—living embodiments of ancient traditions, perched high among the clouds. Most prominent among the cultural treasures is the Lamara Church, a revered sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary, set at an awe-inspiring elevation of 2,300 meters above sea level. Other notable landmarks include the Ushguli Icon Museum, the Towers of Queen Tamar, the Nizharadze family towers, and a series of ancient churches scattered across the villages: the Church of St. Barbara and the Church of the Savior in Murkmeli; the Church of the Savior in Chvibiani and Zhibiani; and the Church of St. George, also located in Zhibiani.
Among the most unique institutions is the Ushguli Ethnographic Museum, housed in a private 16th-century residence. It offers an intimate glimpse into the lifestyle of bygone centuries, with everyday objects curated from a personal collection. The museum is open nearly around the clock—whenever the household is present.
Today, Ushguli is home to about 200 permanent residents. Strikingly, the locals are rarely seen wandering the streets, as if maintaining a respectful distance from the constant flow of visitors who disrupt their age-old rhythm of life. While the Svans are known for their hospitality, they remain reserved, unlike the more open-hearted warmth found in the lowlands. Their interactions with tourists are minimal, and the community safeguards its traditional ways with quiet determination.
Neither the comforts of modern plains nor the biting chill of harsh winters have succeeded in coaxing Ushguli’s people down from the mountains. Tourists are drawn here not only for the scenery, but also to witness a genuine highland community—one that still operates according to ancestral, clan-based principles of life.
Five churches stand within the boundaries of the community—an extraordinary number for such a small area. The explanation lies in the deep religiosity of the Svans. During the long, snowbound winters, when the village is cut off from the outside world and silence reigns supreme, one is naturally drawn toward eternal truths and philosophical contemplation. Unlike other Georgians, the Svans are not farmers; they do not cultivate grapes, and their culture lacks the exuberant feasts and rivers of wine associated with the Georgian lowlands. These are mountain people—proud hunters and herders who live modestly, even austerely. The mountains demand simplicity, and here, life is measured and stripped of excess.
The Svans of Ushguli are loyal to millennia-old traditions and stern laws of existence. Once, every family in the village owned a tower. These towers served multiple purposes: as guard posts, food storerooms, stables, and, when necessary, homes. Ushguli is the only Svan community that has never been conquered. Ethnographers suggest that the name “Ushguli” comes from the phrase ushishari guli—“fearless heart.”
Due to the region’s cold mountain climate, Svan homes had to be sturdy and well-insulated to withstand blizzards and subzero temperatures. Typically three stories high, these houses were marvels of practicality: the lowest level, akin to a cellar, was used for storing food supplies; the second floor served as living quarters during the autumn and winter. Humans and animals coexisted under the same roof, preserving warmth. Animal pens lined the perimeter, and food was fed to cows, horses, and pigs through built-in chutes. Above the pens were raised platforms where entire families—sometimes up to 20 people—slept together. The top floor, used for storing hay in the winter, was cleared out in summer and repurposed as a living space. Every home was connected to its tower by a hidden underground passage. In times of danger, families would gather their belongings, herd their animals, and flee through these tunnels into the safety of the towers. The layouts of these passages were secret, known only to elders, passed down orally and never committed to paper. In addition to real escape routes, decoy tunnels were created to mislead or entrap intruders.
The villages themselves, dotted with age-old defensive towers, are sights to behold—living monuments that draw visitors from the modern world. It’s no coincidence that both the community and its architecture are designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites.
As previously mentioned, Ushguli boasts five churches, the most significant being Lamara Church, perched at 2,300 meters, commanding both spiritual reverence and panoramic vistas. The Churches of the Savior in Chvibiani and Zhibiani further anchor the region’s religious heritage. The village of Zhibiani is particularly rich in attractions—it is home to both the ethnographic museum and the icon museum, which houses rare and ancient religious icons, as well as the Church of St. George.
Then there is the Tower of Queen Tamar—an enduring symbol woven of both legend and history. Locals believe that this was once the residence of their beloved monarch, the great queen of Georgia’s golden age.
Visitors to Ushguli often find themselves slipping into a meditative state, where action feels unnecessary, and being still becomes a form of engagement. Amidst these awe-inspiring peaks, one feels that yoga, meditation, and the pursuit of inner peace could only have originated in places like this. Certainly, adventurous souls may hike to the glaciers or climb the Tower of Tamar, but in the end, even the grandest excursions pale beside the quiet wonder of a single alpine flower pushing up between ancient stones.
Perhaps the best activity in Ushguli is to simply wander—meander aimlessly through its narrow alleys, weave between towering structures, soak in the serenity of rural life, and just… watch. The raw beauty of the mountain scenery is overwhelming. The sheer majesty can make your head spin, and your mind struggle to grasp that you are truly, physically here, seeing it with your own eyes. Ushguli is a place that resonates deeply with artists, writers, and all those seeking meaning—it is a place where the soul may well undergo a renaissance.
Reaching Ushguli is an adventure in itself. The village lies about 50 kilometers from Mestia, the regional center, and can be accessed only by hiring a 4×4 vehicle. The road winds for two to three hours through a rugged canyon carved by the Inguri River, with no public transport servicing the route. A rushed visit might prove disappointing—these mountains are not fond of haste.
Despite its remoteness, Ushguli is accessible by two main routes. One road runs from Mestia, following a dramatic river canyon. The other, which used to be more passable, leads from Lentekhi and is now a treacherous off-road track, navigable only by high-clearance vehicles. This second route is considered quite challenging and is recommended only for the most determined travelers.
There are three popular trekking routes leading to Ushguli:
Jabeshi (Mulakhi) – Ushguli, a three-day hike. Though Mulakhi lies only 10 km from Mestia, its remote location means it is rarely visited.
Ushguli – Shkhara Glacier, a one-day route offering stunning alpine views.
Ushguli – Latpari Pass, a trail leading to the high mountain pass, which can be extended to Lentekhi.
This extended trek, about 55 kilometers long, rewards the hiker with steep switchbacks, a visit to the alpine camp of Zeskho (reached via a side path), and views of several abandoned churches in Lower Svaneti dating back to the 8th and 9th centuries. Along this trail lies the Zagari Pass, the natural border between Lower and Upper Svaneti.
The village of Chvibiani serves as the heart of the Ushguli community. Here, guesthouses offer simple accommodations, and you can grab a bite at the modest “Cats” Café (located in a tower). Not far from there is Chazhashi, a village ideal for strolling among historic homes and exploring tower-fortresses. According to legend, Queen Tamar herself stayed in the Upper Chazhashi Castle, and many Svans believe that her final resting place lies somewhere in these mountains. The Lower Castle was dismantled in the Soviet era, its stones repurposed for building a cattle shed—a poignant reminder of the turbulent tides of history
