Queen Tamar’s Castle

Upper Chazhashi Castle is perched high above the Svan community of Ushguli, standing sentinel on a mountain directly above the village of Chazhashi. It is sometimes referred to as Queen Tamar’s Castle or the Ushguli Castle. Not far below, within the boundaries of the village itself, lies the Lower Chazhashi Castle, now reduced to a single surviving tower. In truth, the upper castle holds little military value today, but it draws interest as a scenic viewpoint — a compelling reason to ascend the steep slope on which it rests.

The castle offers no grand historical narrative, only whispers of myth and legend. Local lore attributes its construction to Queen Tamar, who is believed to have kept a summer residence in this very spot. Yet this theory invites skepticism. The fortress is small — too modest in scale to resemble a royal residence, even accounting for centuries of decay. Still, one might imagine that Queen Tamar visited Ushguli and stayed in both the lower and upper castles. In this light, the legend seems slightly more plausible.

Today, all that remains are ruins: a single tower, partially crumbled at the top, another that is heavily damaged, and faint traces of a third. These remnants are visible to all who journey to Ushguli, though few visitors muster the will to climb to such heights. Curiously, Ushguli’s cows ascend these same steep trails with ease, navigating the rugged paths and wandering casually through the burdock-covered slopes. Their motivation remains a mystery.

The castle is built of slate stone, and notably, the eastern wall is not tightly joined to the adjacent tower — a visible gap between the two structures suggests they were built at different times. It is quite possible that during Queen Tamar’s era, no walls stood here at all.

There is little of architectural interest inside: no cisterns, staircases, fireplaces, or niches remain. Perhaps the only unusual feature is the middle tower, which retains an accessible entrance. Its purpose, however, is entirely unclear.

So, while the castle itself offers little to see in terms of historical artifacts or preserved structures, the vistas it provides are breathtaking. From this elevated perch, several hundred meters above what is often called “the highest village in Georgia,” one can behold the entire Ushguli valley, the towering peak of Mount Shkhara, and the surrounding Caucasus mountains. Regrettably, the northern slope of the mountain is densely overgrown with birch trees, which obscure the view of the villages of Chazhashi and Murkmeli. Only Zhibiani can be clearly seen.

In many ways, the ascent to the castle is more memorable than the destination itself. The atmosphere in Ushguli tends to lull visitors into quiet contemplation — one might easily be tempted to sit motionless on a terrace with a cup of coffee in hand. But should you decide to put your legs to work, the trail to the mountaintop awaits.

The path begins at the village of Chazhashi. Walk through the village until you reach its western edge and the bridge that crosses the Shavtskala River. From the bridge, several trails lead uphill — any one of them will do. Eventually, they merge into a single stony path that climbs steeply through the forest, with few switchbacks to ease the incline.

The trail will bring you to a level clearing — a small meadow tucked among birch trees. Here, turn right and follow the path another 300 meters through the birch grove, and you’ll arrive at the ruins of the castle. The hike is not especially technical, but it can be exhausting, particularly due to the thin mountain air.