Betpak-Dala Desert

Betpak-Dala is one of the largest clay deserts in the world. This vast natural region stretches 170 kilometers from north to south and about 500 kilometers from west to east, covering an area of 75,000 square kilometers on the Kazakh plains—two and a half times larger than modern Belgium. Almost entirely uninhabited, Betpak-Dala is fascinating for its varied landscape. Its proximity to the Kazakh uplands is reflected in the region’s rocky areas, low hills, and small depressions.

In the western part of the desert, you’ll find loose deposits of sandstone, pebbles, and other formations, along with unique takyrs—clay depressions with hardened crusts that resemble small polygons. To the south, fresh groundwater can be found at depths of 2 to 30 meters, though natural surface water sources are scarce. Only shallow saline lakes can be seen here and there on the surface.

The name “Betpak-Dala” reflects the geography of this desolate area: in Turkic, “dala” means plain, while “batnak” signifies a mire. Another interpretation connects its origins to the Persian “bedbakht,” meaning “ill-fated.” In Russian sources, Betpak-Dala is sometimes called the Northern Hunger Steppe, which harmonizes with these interpretations.

The plant life in the desert is sparse. Black and gray sagebrush dominate the elevated areas, while the salt-tolerant half-shrub biyurgun thrives in salt flats, and clusters of Krascheninnikovia and caragana grow on sandy dunes. The rocky eastern regions are home to the saltwort plant, and during spring, one may encounter ferula and tulips dotting the landscape.

The animal life in Betpak-Dala is similarly limited. On the plains near the foothills, partridges, grouse, and bustards can be found, alongside hoofed animals like the gazelle and the saiga antelope. The population of the latter, once one of the largest in the region, has dwindled due to poaching, driven by the high demand for its horns in traditional Chinese medicine to treat dizziness, headaches, and other ailments. In the thickets of caragana, Krascheninnikovia, and saltwort, a unique survivor from the mammoth era, the Selevenia, makes its home. This mouse-like endemic rodent is named after the Soviet zoologist Viktor Selevin, who discovered it during an expedition in 1938.

Betpak-Dala, like many deserts, has a continental climate with reliably hot summers and extremely cold winters. The average July temperature reaches 24-26°C, while in January it drops to -12 to -14°C. A defining characteristic of the region’s climate is the low annual precipitation, which amounts to only 100-150 millimeters, with around 33% falling in spring and 15% in summer. Snow cover begins to form at the end of November, lasting two and a half to three months, though it rarely exceeds 15 centimeters in depth.

Unending and sparsely explored, Betpak-Dala has naturally given rise to many myths and legends. According to Kazakh folklore, a cemetery of warriors (batyrs) lies somewhere in the desert, rumored to contain remains and even complete skeletons. Another legend speaks of an ill-fated Kalmyk invasion. The Dzungars planned to attack Kazakh settlements by passing through the desert, a route that would seal their doom. Lost in the wilderness, the invaders split into two groups, one moving forward, the other staying behind. Only two men from the forward group returned, as hunger and thirst claimed the others. The warlord later searched for his fallen comrades’ bodies but found nothing.

Interesting Facts

1. The vastness of Betpak-Dala inspired Selevin’s book, The End of the White Spot.
2. Despite its name, this desert remains largely unexplored. A recent expedition in 2014 took place in a unique format when British runner Jamie Bunchuk covered almost 306 kilometers through the desert in eight days.
3. In 2019, participants in the “Nur-Sultan — Turkestan” marathon ran 1,400 kilometers, a route that passed through the desert.
4. In the last century, uranium deposits were discovered in Betpak-Dala, and mining continues near the village of Kyzyemshek.
5. The desert is also home to the Sary Shagan military testing ground, leased by the Russian Ministry of Defense.
6. In 2003, an image of the Betpak-Dala endemic species adorned a series of Kazakhstan’s postage stamps.