Lake Balkhash

Lake Balkhash is a unique, semi-freshwater lake and the largest in Kazakhstan, resting at the crossroads of three regions and framed by distinctive natural landscapes. On one side, it borders the Chu-Ili Mountains; on the other, it stretches out into the vast Betpak-Dala steppe, which softly melds into rocky hills. To the south, Balkhash is met by the massive Central Asian deserts. Covering an area of nearly 16,500 square kilometers, the lake spans 600 kilometers in length, with its width ranging up to 70 kilometers in the western part while remaining narrower in the east.

After the Caspian Sea, Balkhash is the second-largest saltwater lake in Kazakhstan, and on a global scale, it ranks 14th. What’s remarkable about Lake Balkhash is its dual chemical composition, effectively dividing it into two halves. The western waters are fresh, while the eastern waters are salty, separated by the Uzynaral Strait and the Saryesik Peninsula. The lake’s depth varies similarly; the western part is shallow and often murky, whereas the deeper, clearer eastern waters reach depths of up to 26 meters. Many visitors compare the eastern side to a true sea, with its emerald waves and salty breezes, while the western side has a more muted yellow-gray hue.

The lake’s surface is dotted with islands, most of which can be reached by boat, while a few are accessible by a determined swim. Occasionally, water levels drop, expanding the islands’ area and even creating new ones. Positioned in the Balkhash-Alakol Basin, the lake itself resembles a crescent. A railway line to Almaty traces its northwestern shores.

For centuries, Balkhash has attracted settlers to its shores. Archaeological evidence shows that people inhabited this area thousands of years ago. A local legend tells of a shaman, Balkhash, who sought the best match for his daughter, Ili, among noble suitors from Bukhara, Mongolia, and China. However, Ili fell in love with a poor shepherd named Karatal. The lovers fled, but in his rage, Balkhash cursed them, transforming them into rivers. The old shaman himself became the lake, vowing to separate the two rivers eternally.

In the past century, the towns and villages surrounding Balkhash have relied on fishing as a staple industry. Yet, since the 1990s, pollution from the Balkhash Mining and Metallurgical Plant and illegal fishing have significantly reduced commercial catches. Old-timers and seasoned anglers recall that the lake’s fauna were far richer until these environmental and industrial changes took their toll.

The lake’s desert climate brings scorching heat in the summer, with temperatures exceeding 30°C and almost no rainfall. The water warms to a pleasant 28°C by mid-summer, making it a popular alternative to sea vacations. Resorts around Balkhash are mainly concentrated near the city of Balkhash, Priozersk, and villages like Chubar-Tyubek and Torangalyk, with the most developed tourist facilities located along the northwestern shore, catering to family and group vacations.

Swimming season at Lake Balkhash begins in mid-June and continues until September. In the summer, youth festivals energize the lake’s shores, and the main beaches are teeming with vacationers. Many visitors also set up camp with tents, finding secluded spots along the lake’s extensive coastline for a peaceful retreat.

Both winter and summer bring lively fishing activities, drawing enthusiasts day and night. The lake is home to nearly 20 fish species, including carp, catfish, bream, roach, crucian carp, pike perch, and snakehead. Some rare catfish here even reach up to 70 kilograms. While the steppe might seem barren, the reeds along the lake’s shore shelter rare birds like swans, white-tailed eagles, and pelicans. Wild animals like boars, wolves, and foxes roam the reed beds, and hunting is permitted in certain areas.

Several lakeside resorts offer guided tours, meals, accommodations, transport, and gear for fishing and spearfishing—particularly rewarding in the lake’s clearer, less crowded southern waters. These options are readily available online.