The Domalak Ana Mausoleum

The Domalak Ana Mausoleum, an architectural monument from the 11th century, stands in the South Kazakhstan region, nestled on the southern slopes of the Karatau Mountains in the valley of the Balabogen River. Built over the grave of Nurila Ali Sylanqyzy, known among the people as Domalak Ana, this sacred site holds a significant place in local lore.

Domalak Ana was the younger wife of Baidibek Ata, revered for her wisdom, compassion, and intellect. She symbolizes motherhood and kindness, often credited as a cultural emblem of benevolence and insight. Some believe her name originates from the Persian phrase «Dikhnat Mama,» meaning «Holy Mother,» which later evolved into «Domalak.» Stories abound of her spiritual purity, keen intelligence, and wise counsel, virtues that garnered her respect even from the early days of her marriage. Domalak Ana’s guidance often served to resolve conflicts and soothe age-old grievances, securing her reputation as a peacemaker.

Her legacy endures among the peoples of Semirechye, Aulie-Ata, Shymkent, and Tashkent. Her son, Zharykshak, held esteemed roles as an advisor to the Amir of Tashkent, later becoming the ruler of Semirechye and chief vizier to Khan Esenbuga. Towards the end of her life, Domalak Ana chose to return to her native Karatau Mountains, reportedly guided by a vision of her husband, Baidibek Ata. She passed away while in prayer.

To honor her memory, Domalak Ana’s grandson, Dulat, commissioned the skilled craftsman Abdullah Sheri from Bukhara, who constructed a four-tiered, domed mausoleum above her grave. Since its completion in 1456, this tomb has been a revered pilgrimage site. The mausoleum was initially designed as a four-walled structure topped with domes and underwent several restorations from the 11th to the 15th centuries. The 20th-century version was round with six niches and a central dome above the main structure. After its restoration in 1957, the mausoleum unfortunately did not survive. In 1996, a new layer of white stone, brought from Mangystau, was added. The current mausoleum stands at 12 meters tall, with an octagonal dome crowning the main edifice.

Legend tells of two sacred stones within the Domalak Ana Mausoleum. It is said that only a righteous person can pass between them. The museum attached to the mausoleum preserves numerous manuscripts, a testament to the site’s cultural and spiritual heritage.

Visible from afar, the mausoleum is surrounded by a sprawling park—a lush green oasis amid the steppe, offering a serene and beautiful setting for visitors.

Nurila, the youngest wife of Baidibek Bi, holds a revered place in Kazakh history, admired nearly as much as the goddess Umai. She is celebrated for her unique power to grant women the gift of motherhood. Known among her people as Domalak-ana, she is considered by legend to be the ancestral mother of the Great Zhuz and Kazakh clans of Alban, Suan, and Dulat. Today, some Kazakhs even view her as a mother to the entire Kazakh nation, and daily, dozens of people come to pay their respects and seek her blessings.

Nurila was born in 1378 in Turkestan, the daughter of Shaikh Mizambek, a caretaker at the tomb of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi. Baidibek Bi encountered Nurila by chance during a visit to the mausoleum, where her sharp intellect and graceful manners deeply impressed him. A sage residing near the tomb advised Baidibek, «Here is a girl who radiates light, one blessed with purity and holiness; make her your wife.» Heeding the advice, Baidibek married her and placed her in a yurt beside his other two wives. Nurila was only 19 at the time.

However, another version of their story tells that Nurila was once a slave in Baidibek’s household. While drawing water one day, she fell into a well. Baidibek, who often tended his own horses despite having many servants, came upon her there, rescued her, and fell in love. She then became his third wife, destined to continue his lineage.

Why she was called «Domalak-ana» is uncertain. One theory suggests it was due to her small stature, earning her the name «Round Mother.» Another links it to the Persian phrase “dikhnet mama,” meaning «holy mother.»

Domalak-ana’s descendants were known for their intelligence and leadership. Her son Zharıkshak served as an advisor to the Tashkent Amir, later ruling Semirechye and becoming chief vizier to Khan Yesenbuga. According to legend, she advised him to pass his duties to Dulat, her sharpest grandson, which he did. This decision, however, led her other grandsons, Alban and Suan, to leave the clan, though Alban eventually returned, sought her forgiveness, and was blessed by her. Suan, however, never came back.

In a society traditionally ruled by men, it was unusual for a woman’s counsel to hold such weight. Yet, Domalak-ana’s wisdom and influence were unparalleled, and she was even believed to have prophetic powers. One well-known prophecy involved Baidibek: “When a sudden attack was launched on Baidibek’s village at the foot of the Karatau mountains, his thousands of horses were stolen while he and his six sons from his first wife were away. Hearing of the raid, Baidibek set off in pursuit. Just before leaving, a single untamed horse returned to the village, tied near Domalak-ana’s yurt. She cautioned him, ‘Do not chase the enemy. This bay stallion is a sign; the herd will return in six days. Let the warriors live—that is my wish.’ Baidibek disregarded her words, engaged the attackers at Kuyuk Pass, and lost all six sons in battle. Six days later, the entire herd returned.” Had Baidibek listened to her, his sons would have survived. Many of her predictions came true.

Domalak-ana is remembered as a humble and loving mother, radiating kindness toward all. Her wise decisions often quelled conflicts, and to this day, she is venerated as a symbol of motherhood.

Before her passing, Domalak-ana instructed her family: “Do not bury me beside Baidibek. Bring a white camel, load my remains upon it, and follow it. Where it kneels shall be my resting place.” Her family honored her wish. The camel stopped on the plains near the Kos Bogen river, and there she was laid to rest. Later, her grandson Dulat commissioned Abdul Shiri, a master builder from Bukhara, to construct a four-tiered domed mausoleum above her grave.

Built in 1456, the original mausoleum had four walls topped with domes. Though it underwent numerous reconstructions, its original structure has not survived. The current mausoleum dates to a major renovation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. An inscription in Kazakh near the entrance reads: “A monument to the Great Mother Babizhar, daughter of Aksultan,” followed by verses urging reverence for mothers. In 1996, architect S. Toktamys led a restoration using white stones brought from Mangistau.

Today, the Domalak-ana Mausoleum stands among the principal attractions of Turkestan Region, drawing pilgrims and tourists alike. Local stories tell of miraculous events: families who struggled to conceive would visit, pray, and later welcome children into their lives.

Despite this reverence, the mausoleum staff remain vigilant, ensuring visitors follow proper decorum. Women must avoid wearing short dresses, pants, or headscarves, and men are also expected to dress modestly, refraining from shorts or T-shirts. These strict rules don’t deter visitors; rather, the mausoleum has become so popular that local benefactors have built a nearby hotel complex where guests may stay. Simple amenities make these accommodations nearly free.