Kel Suu lake

The high-altitude Lake Kel Suu is situated in the southern part of the Ak-Sai Valley, perched at an impressive 3,514 meters above sea level. This remote gem, surrounded by towering cliffs and emerald-green waters, beckons travelers from around the globe with its untouched beauty. However, due to its proximity to the Kyrgyz-Chinese border, a special border permit is required to access the area.

The name «Kel Suu» translates to «coming water,» which is quite fitting, as the lake has a fascinating habit of disappearing and then refilling over time. As you approach the lake, the terrain becomes rather marshy, so reaching it requires a well-equipped off-road vehicle, capable of navigating the challenging landscape.

Reaching Kel Suu is nothing short of an adventure. The journey takes an entire day, navigating through border checkpoints, mountain passes, rivers, and unmarked paths where roads cease to exist. There’s no cell phone coverage here, and the lake remains hidden from the touch of civilization. From the yurt camp, Kel Suu is a 13-kilometer trek. The total distance from Naryn to Lake Kel Suu is around 150 kilometers, but due to the mountainous terrain, the trip will take quite some time.

The journey begins as you head east from Naryn toward the village of Akmuz. This marks the end of civilization – signal disappears, and this is your last chance to send a message to family and friends, so they don’t worry about your whereabouts. Akmuz is a sizable village with an asphalt road and even a football field. From here, you’ll travel along the At-Bashi River before the road snakes upward in a series of hairpin turns, climbing toward the Kyndy Pass and the first border checkpoint. Photography is strictly prohibited around this checkpoint, and passport checks vary depending on the mood of the border guards. Once cleared, you continue your journey, descending from the pass and arriving at the second checkpoint, the Kyndy border outpost, where the passport procedure is repeated. Beyond the outpost, you’ll find a signpost pointing toward «Arashan.»

As you descend from the mountains, you find yourself in the Ak-Sai Valley, reputed to be the coldest place in Kyrgyzstan, with temperatures sometimes plunging to -56 degrees Celsius. Snow blankets the valley up to 80 cm thick. You continue driving along the snow-covered mountains beside the Ak-Sai River, where you may catch a glimpse of shaggy yaks grazing along the way. This section involves around two hours of driving on a dirt road until you reach your final destination: the Jyrgal yurt camp in the Kok-Kyya Valley. Here, you can spend the night in a traditional yurt or set up your tent. As darkness falls, life in the mountains comes to a standstill, and you are treated to a breathtaking view of thousands, even millions, of stars, far more than you could ever see in the city. It feels as though you’ve ascended not just to 3,500 meters, but to a staggering 35 million kilometers, bringing you closer to the stars.

From the Jyrgal camp, the lake is within walking distance. However, only a specialized UAZ vehicle can traverse the rugged terrain to reach it. The deepest point of the journey is where Kok-Kyya merges with a tributary flowing from Kel Suu. From here, the river spreads wide, and you’ll need to navigate through the river’s floodplain, crossing small fords. Then, you must veer to the left and exit the floodplain, climbing up a hill. A final short, winding path leads you to your ultimate destination, the breathtaking Lake Kel Suu.