Koshoy Korgon fortress

The ruins of Koshoi Korgon stand proudly amidst the high plateau of At-Bashy, situated at an elevation of 2,500 meters. Located roughly 15 kilometers southwest of At-Bashy in the Naryn region, specifically near the village of Kara-Suu, this historical site carries the echoes of ancient times. The fortress, with its distinctive square shape, is a remarkable landmark of the Silk Road, even visible from satellite imagery (check the map below), making it an ideal location for drone photography and exploration. The vastness of the structure suggests that this once-bustling city was quite substantial in size. Today, visitors can freely wander through the area, marveling at the towering remains of the fortress walls, some of which still reach impressive heights, and exploring the ruins of the structures within. Scattered pieces of pottery are a common sight, a reminder of Central Asia’s rich yet often under-explored archaeological heritage.

Dating back to the 7th century, the fortress was once surrounded by a thriving city. Based on the archaeological findings, it appears that most inhabitants were engaged in craftsmanship and trade. The origins of the fortress may trace back to the Turkic period, though legends attribute its construction to the hero Manas, who supposedly built it as a mausoleum for his friend Koshoi, a figure famously mentioned in the epic of Manas.

Koshoi Korgon’s location was no coincidence; it was strategically chosen to monitor and guard the entire plateau, as well as to control the flow of traffic along this segment of the Silk Road. Nestled beside the Kara-Koyun River at the base of a nearby mountain range, this advantageous position offered the fortress’s defenders an unparalleled vantage point. They could observe all activities in the surrounding area and detect any approaching threats from afar.

Excavations have revealed remnants of structures used for both living and manufacturing within the fortress walls. Researchers have identified Koshoi Korgon as the frequently referenced medieval city of At-Bash, which flourished primarily from the 9th to the 12th centuries. However, the site remained active even during the era of Timur.

Adjacent to the ruins is a local history museum dedicated to preserving the artifacts unearthed from the site. These artifacts range from household items and weapons to clothing, offering a window into the daily lives of the people who once inhabited this area. The museum itself is privately funded by a businessman from Kara-Suu who is passionate about protecting Koshoi Korgon from looting and illegal excavations. The museum’s caretaker is always eager to share the site’s history, though he only speaks Russian or Kyrgyz. Numerous intriguing artifacts and maps can be found here, and the ongoing archaeological efforts continue to yield fascinating discoveries. Efforts to have Koshoi Korgon recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site are currently underway.

According to legend, Koshoi was one of the most trusted and loyal companions of the epic hero Manas. As a devoted friend, uncle, chief adviser, and leader of the Katagan clan, Koshoi lived around the 7th-8th centuries. Throughout all versions of the epic, he is portrayed as a wise and just elder, capable of standing up to Manas himself. Tall and robust despite his age, Koshoi is described as slightly overweight, strong, and courageous, with a long grey beard and mustache, and a shaved head. Their paths first crossed when Koshoi was already 80 years old.

Another version of the legend suggests that Koshoi ordered the construction of a military fortress, known as Koshoi Korgon, to protect the newly settled lands and the local population from Chinese invaders, other enemies, and roaming bandits.

Much like other fortresses built across various parts of the world—be it Japan, Asia, or Europe—Koshoi Korgon shares many architectural principles and structural elements. These similarities have enabled historians and restorers to accurately reconstruct the visual representation of the fortress, now on display in the museum. The fortress, rectangular in shape, measured 245 by 250 meters and featured multiple towers along its walls.

The walls were constructed using large clay blocks and rammed earth, materials renowned for their strength. These walls once stood as high as 10 meters, with a thickness ranging from 3 to 8 meters, depending on their height. Approximately 50 circular or rectangular towers were strategically placed along the wall’s perimeter, at the corners, and along the long, straight sections. These towers served as observation points, allowing defenders to monitor the surroundings, protect the gates, and provide refuge during battles.

Adding to its defenses was a wide ditch, measuring up to 11-14 meters across and about three meters deep, which was filled with water from a nearby source. For nearly 29 years, the fortress stood firm, repelling countless enemy attacks.

For many years, the Koshoi Korgon fortress effectively safeguarded its inhabitants. However, it eventually faced tumultuous times, succumbing to the relentless raids of nomadic invaders. After a period of relative calm, trade caravans resumed their journey along the ancient routes. Despite this resurgence, the fortress—also known as At-Bashy—was ultimately captured and destroyed by the Mongol invaders.

The details of the fortress’s final downfall remain shrouded in mystery, but according to some unverified reports, the city was rebuilt exactly one hundred years later by Amir Temur (Tamerlane), the renowned Central Asian ruler, commander, and conqueror. Under his leadership, the fortress served as a critical transshipment point for his army during campaigns to the east against China.

Koshoi Korgon lies about 2 kilometers southeast of the village of Kara-Suu. To reach the citadel, take a left turn after passing the Kara-Suu mosque and war memorial, then continue to the end of the road. The ruins lie in a field to the right, where farmers still tend to their crops. Koshoi Korgon makes for an excellent additional stop if you’re traveling to destinations like Chatyr Kul, Kel Suu, or Tash Rabat.