Son Kul Lake

Nestled high in the mountains, Son-Kul Lake (also known as Son-Köl) dazzles visitors with its breathtaking beauty and sheer size. It ranks among the top ecotourism destinations and stands as one of Kyrgyzstan’s most popular natural attractions. This enchanting Tien Shan lake sparkles like a sapphire set in an emerald basin, surrounded by picturesque mountains and meadows dotted with delicate edelweiss flowers.

Situated in the northwestern part of Kyrgyzstan’s Naryn region, about 90 kilometers from the city of Naryn, Son-Kul Lake was formed by the melting of glaciers. It is the second-largest natural reservoir in the country, stretching across the heart of the Inner Tien Shan at an impressive altitude of 3,016 meters. The lake is framed by sprawling meadows, serene bays, and idyllic coves, with its eastern part lying within the Karatal-Zhapyryk Reserve, which preserves its pristine environment.

The lake spans 29 kilometers in length and 18 kilometers in width, covering an expansive surface area of 270 square kilometers. Its maximum depth reaches 14 meters, making it a substantial body of fresh water. Approximately 20 small rivers flow into Son-Kul, while only one river, the Son-Kul River, flows out, eventually merging with the mighty Naryn River. Here, the water cascades into a rocky gorge, forming the breathtaking Kök-Jerty waterfalls.

The skies above Son-Kul are simply mesmerizing, with fluffy white clouds seemingly within arm’s reach. It’s as if you could reach out and touch them. The lake’s sky is an endless subject for photographers, as are the lush pastures surrounding it, where graceful, fearless horses graze. This region offers countless captivating views: the valley of the Son-Kul River, the boundless Naryn expanses, alpine meadows, mountain peaks, and winding bays. The beauty of Son-Kul is beyond words—it must be experienced firsthand.

The origin of the lake’s name is shrouded in mystery, with two popular theories. One suggests that it translates to «the last lake,» while another claims it means «the lake where wild ducks live.»

A place as beautiful as Son-Kul naturally inspires myths, tales, and legends. One such story tells of a time when a Khan’s palace once stood in this very spot. The ruler was known for his cruelty and insatiable desire, keeping a harem filled with beautiful women from every corner of the Tien Shan. These women, trapped and sorrowful, wept so much that their tears softened the hearts of the nearby mountains. As the land beneath the Khan’s palace sank, water flooded the area, drowning the palace and its heartless ruler. Thus, Son-Kul Lake was born, embodying the combined beauty of all the women who were once held captive by the Khan.

Legend has it that anyone who bathes in the lake’s waters becomes younger and more beautiful. Another belief is tied to the lake’s unique ability to change the color of its waters. If someone feeling depressed or weighed down by life swims in the lake on a clear day, they find their spirits lifted, their zest for life restored. Those who visit Son-Kul often confirm that it truly has the power to heal sorrow, drive away despair, and infuse one with life’s vibrant energy.

Visitors to the pristine shores of Son-Kul Lake don’t come expecting luxury accommodations or modern infrastructure. And rightly so, as the allure of this destination lies in its simplicity and unspoiled natural beauty. There are no hotels, resorts, or extravagant spa centers here. Instead, travelers have two primary options: setting up their own tents or staying in one of the yurt camps that spring up around the lake every year.

These portable, frame-built yurts can be rented for several days, offering a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in the lifestyle of Kyrgyz nomads. Crafted from felt and decorated in traditional styles, these yurts are outfitted with wooden tables, beds, electricity, and stoves for warmth. The amenities, however, are rustic, with outdoor facilities being the norm. The yurt camps provide meals centered around lamb dishes cooked over an open fire, accompanied by fresh kumis, a fermented mare’s milk that’s a staple of the region.

For those seeking adventure, Son-Kul offers a variety of activities, such as paragliding, horseback riding, and, of course, fishing. Anglers will find plenty of opportunities to cast their lines in the Kokomeren and Naryn rivers, as well as the lake itself.

The lake impresses visitors not only with its diverse fish species but also with its rich plant life. Here, you won’t find dense coniferous forests or other familiar trees. Instead, you’ll be greeted by a vibrant array of rare and colorful flowers, including the endangered edelweiss, a species listed in the Red Book of Kyrgyzstan. This floral carpet gradually blends into the lush, unforgettable alpine meadows that surround the lake. The most verdant and emerald-green vegetation is found in the protected zone on the lake’s eastern side.

It’s no surprise that Son-Kul Lake is a haven for waterfowl, which flock to its shores from the May thaw until autumn’s arrival. Over 60 species of birds and 14 species of ducks can be found here, with the mountain goose being one of the most fascinating. Similar in size to its cousins, it stands out with its striking yellow legs and beak, white head and neck, and distinctive black stripes. These geese typically arrive in the Son-Kul area by mid-April.

The climate of Son-Kul is shaped by its location, nestled between two towering Tien Shan mountain ranges at an elevation of 3,016 meters above sea level. Winters here are harsh and snowy, making the lake inaccessible for nearly five months as the mountain passes become buried under massive snowdrifts. During this time, the water temperature can plummet to as low as -20°C, and the lake remains frozen beneath a blanket of snow for around 200 days. Ice forms as early as September and doesn’t melt until June.

However, with the arrival of a brief summer, the lake comes alive. The shallow waters warm up to 11°C, with an average water temperature reaching about 12°C. The air becomes infused with ions of iodine and ozone, giving it a refreshing and health-boosting quality.

Summer days at Son-Kul can see temperatures climb to +25°C, while at night, they drop to a cool +15°C to +10°C. In winter, however, the mercury can plunge as low as -30°C. The season here is characterized by heavy snowfall and strong winds, with the lake remaining covered in ice from late September to late April.

There’s a local belief that you can tell the weather at Son-Kul simply by observing the lake’s surface. The waters change color depending on the prevailing conditions: one moment they shimmer with violet, the next they display brilliant shades of blue, yellow, or even orange. It’s said that this ever-changing palette can affect the mood of those who gaze upon it.

From late May to the end of August, the landscape is draped in greenery, with the lake’s meadows, known as «jailoo,» transforming into pastures. Shepherds from nearby areas lead their horses, sheep, camels, and other livestock to graze here, spending three warm months living in yurts with their families.

For those wishing not only to marvel at this stunning scenery but also to swim and soak up the sun, the ideal time to visit is June or July. In spring and early autumn, the water temperature rarely rises above 3.5°C to 5°C.

Around the shores of Lake Son-Kul, many ancient burial mounds, petroglyphs, sculptures, and flat stones with inscriptions have been discovered. Among the relics of the past is the only remaining stone structure in the area that still stands proudly over the steppe: a small «kumbez,» constructed from bricks. This structure resembles a mausoleum and was erected in honor of the local folk hero Olzhobolot uulu Andash, who fought valiantly against the Kazakh invasion in 1847.

The mausoleum itself is located between the campsite at the Kilemchi River and a yurt camp by Lake Son-Kul. There’s a sign in English that reads, “The Kumbez was erected to the People’s Hero Olzhobolot uulu Andash who proudly fought in the battle against the offensive the Kazakhs Kenensary and Noruzbay in 1847! At this point, buried Hero!”

On your way up to the lake, before reaching the Terskey-Torpok Pass (known as «33 Parrots»), you’ll encounter a magnificent waterfall. The shaded path to this waterfall lies between the lake and the road leading from Naryn. Standing at approximately 30 meters in height and situated 2,600 meters above sea level, this waterfall is a sight to behold. The locals call both the pass and the waterfall “33 Parrots” because the descent from the pass includes 33 winding turns.

Geographically, Lake Son-Kul belongs to the Naryn region of Kyrgyzstan. Different parts of the lake fall under the administrative jurisdictions of Jumgal, Kochkor, Naryn, and Ak-Talaa districts. It is located 90 kilometers from the regional administrative center and 280 kilometers from the capital, Bishkek. The nearest significant settlement is the village of Chaek. If you’re traveling by car or bus from Bishkek, the journey takes around 6-7 hours. Most of the road is well-maintained, but some parts are rugged and unpaved.

There are two main ways to reach Son-Kul: by car or as part of a guided tour group. Many trekking tours start from the town of Kochkor, situated 90 kilometers from the lake.

If traveling by car, there are several routes available: the northeastern road meanders through Sary-Bulak, the southeastern trail takes you along the serpentine path of the “33 Parrots Pass,” the southwestern route leads through Ak-Talaa, and the northwestern road passes by the Kara-Keche coal mines. The most popular route is via the village of Kalmak-Ashuu. The majority of the journey is along the A365 highway, which is in good condition.

Many tours depart from Bishkek and offer visitors the chance to stay in yurts and experience the lake. Often, such tours include a visit to Kyrgyzstan’s largest lake, Issyk-Kul. If you plan to stay in a yurt, it’s best to book well in advance.

Lake Son-Kul offers an ideal escape for eco-tourism enthusiasts, adventure travelers, and those who appreciate unspoiled natural beauty. Visitors can choose to pitch their tents along the lakeshore or stay in a yurt camp. Renting a portable yurt allows you to select your preferred location for an authentic experience.

Yurt camps are equipped with areas furnished with tables and benches for meals. Visitors can enjoy traditional dishes, including meat, fish, kumis (fermented mare’s milk), and honey. For a more immersive experience, you can stay with a shepherd’s family for a small fee. Several travel companies offer two- to three-day tours to Lake Son-Kul with varying levels of comfort, including transport, meals, guide services, overnight yurt accommodation, and horseback riding. Tour programs often cover the most interesting spots around the lake and the surrounding protected area.

Important Note: There is no mobile service or power supply at Lake Son-Kul. This is crucial to consider, especially if you plan on staying longer than a day. If you’re driving to the lake, you will need a satellite navigation device. There are no hotels, cafes, pharmacies, car parks, or other infrastructure around the lake. The nearest facilities, including bus stations, hotels, cafes, and shops, are located 50-100 kilometers away. Make sure to stock up on supplies before heading out, and don’t forget to bring flashlights and warm clothing. As there are no trees around the lake, you’ll need to bring your own firewood if you plan on having a campfire.