Ancient city of Anau (Enev)

Comprehensive excavations began in the 1970s when Soviet archaeologists uncovered a remarkable find: the ruins represented not a single settlement, but a complex network of settlements spread over an area of 161 square kilometers. These ancient buildings were situated several meters apart and comprised structures ranging from 100 to 150 meters in length, segmented into small rooms. Artifacts and architectural remains suggest that the Anau civilization was among the most advanced in ancient Central Asia.

Among the discovered items were ceramics, crockery, bone pipes, and tools such as knives and hatchets with handles shaped like birds. These artifacts are housed in various museums worldwide, including those in Anau. Some of the ancient dwellings still display eroded images of people with distinctive inward-slanting eyes and various ornaments, offering a glimpse into the artistic expressions of this ancient culture.

Anau Fortress

Archaeological evidence suggests that the Anau civilization was overrun by nomadic invaders who arrived in Central Asia towards the end of the 2nd millennium BC. Despite this, by the 3rd century BC, during the antique period, a new structure emerged near the ruins of the ancient settlements: the Anau Fortress. This fortification, remarkably preserved to this day, stands on a 10-meter-high hill and is characterized by its irregular circular shape. With a diameter of approximately 300 meters, the fortress is encircled by remnants of defensive walls and towers, and a moat that has been filled with earth over the centuries.

Initial findings at the fortress indicate its Parthian origins. Throughout the 8th to 12th centuries, the fortress came under Arab control before being destroyed by the Mongols. However, by the end of the 13th century, it had been rebuilt. During the medieval period, the fortress evolved into a small town. While several ancient structures have survived, the most notable is the Seyitdzhemaliddin Mosque.

Sheikh Jemaliddin Mosque

Constructed in the 15th century, the Sheikh Jemaliddin Mosque was severely damaged by the 1948 Ashgabat earthquake. Today, only parts of the mosque have been restored, yet it remains a significant site for tourists and researchers. Originally, the mosque complex included the mosque itself, a tombstone marking Sheikh Jemaliddin’s burial site, and two large domed halls. Restoration efforts have successfully recreated the portal foundations, the brickwork of the square, and the grave site. A major accomplishment of the restoration was the revival of a mosaic depicting dragons entwined around apple trees, alongside an inscription referring to the mosque as the «House of Beauty.»

The depiction of dragons is highly unusual for mosque decorations and does not have parallels elsewhere in Central Asia. This unique artwork has intrigued researchers, including the prominent archaeologist and art critic Galina Pugachenkova. She proposed that the dragon might represent the totem of a prominent Turkmen tribe from the 15th century, to which Sheikh Jemaliddin likely belonged. According to local legend, the dragon was saved by villagers who were rewarded with gold, which they used to build the mosque. As a result, the dragon became the village’s totem, revered and celebrated in local lore.