Ashgabat

Turkmenistan stands out as one of the most secretive republics from the former USSR. While many are familiar with Turkmen gas, few have had the chance to witness how this former Soviet republic manages the wealth generated from hydrocarbon sales. And there is indeed much to see. Nestled at the edge of the Karakum Desert is a city that, without exaggeration, could be described as a futuristic marvel infused with Eastern charm. Constructed entirely from white marble, this city often evokes images of a luxurious oasis amidst the arid landscape.

Ashgabat city is divided into four districts known as “etraps”. It is flanked by the rugged Kopetdag Mountain Range to the south and the vast Karakum Desert to the north. It is located very close to Iran, with the border just 25 kilometers away.

The city’s architectural landscape is marked by its striking modernity, a result of extensive reconstruction following a devastating earthquake in 1948. This catastrophic event destroyed much of Ashgabat, claiming over 175,000 lives and leaving few of the original structures intact.

In 2013, Ashgabat achieved recognition in the Guinness Book of Records for having the highest density of white marble buildings in the world, a title it has confirmed multiple times. 

As of 2018, Ashgabat’s population had grown to approximately 1 million residents, out of a total national population of just over 6 million. 

The area that is now Ashgabat has been a site of historical significance since antiquity. In the 2nd century BC, the region was home to the city of Konjikala, strategically located along the Great Silk Road. Despite being severely damaged by an earthquake, Konjikala was rebuilt and continued to thrive until the 13th century, when it fell victim to Mongol invasions.

The 18th century saw the arrival of Russian forces, who established the Askhabad fortress—named from the Persian words eshq (meaning «love») and abad (meaning «city»). By 1881, a military fortification was in place, and in 1919, the settlement was renamed Poltoratsk.

Following the 1917 Russian Revolution, Poltoratsk was designated a city and became a key center within the Turkmen region. In 1925, it was officially named the capital of the Turkmen ASSR. Two years later, the city’s historical name was reinstated with a slight modification, becoming Ashgabat.

With the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, Turkmenistan declared its independence, and Ashgabat was confirmed as the capital of the newly sovereign state. 

Ashgabat welcomes visitors with its opulent architecture, numerous fountains, and a striking abundance of white marble. Indeed, nearly every building in the city center is gleaming white, creating a stunning visual effect.

The city is home to numerous significant institutions and government buildings, as well as remarkable monuments and attractions that have earned it several Guinness World Records. Among the must-see landmarks is the Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center. This impressive complex houses multiple museums, including the renowned Space Museum, and features a colossal indoor Ferris wheel. When it opened in 2012, the Ferris wheel earned a place in the Guinness Book of Records as the tallest enclosed Ferris wheel in the world.

Another notable feature of Ashgabat is its enormous national flag, which flies proudly from a 133-meter-tall flagpole. Until 2010, this was the tallest flagpole in the world, and it has been guarded by an honor guard since 2008.

The Oguzkhan Palace Complex, completed in 2011, serves as the presidential residence. Adorned with white marble, this grand building’s exterior is visible to the public and even appears on the 100 manat banknote, though access to the interior is restricted.

Opened in 2010, the Oguzkent Hotel is a luxurious five-star establishment owned by the Government of Turkmenistan. It features a distinctive national style both inside and out, and, of course, continues the city’s marble theme.

Among Ashgabat’s religious buildings, the Ertogrulgazy Mosque, also known as the Azadi Mosque, stands out for its grandeur. This largest mosque in Ashgabat is framed by four tall minarets and was constructed in the Ottoman style, resembling Istanbul’s famed Blue Mosque.

The Alexander Nevsky Church, built in 1900, serves as the principal Orthodox church in Turkmenistan. One of the few structures to survive the devastating earthquake of 1948, it was repurposed as a warehouse during the Soviet era but was returned to the faithful in 1989.

A particularly unique landmark is the Wedding Palace, known as Bagt Koshgi. Designed in the shape of an eight-pointed star, this eleven-story building features a large golden sphere at its apex, symbolizing the planet and showcasing an image of Turkmenistan. The palace includes various wedding-related facilities such as registration rooms, banquet halls, and shops.

The Monument of Independence is another impressive site. Standing 118 meters tall, this white column is adorned with gilding and topped with a crescent moon and five stars representing the five Turkmen tribes. The base of the monument is designed to resemble a traditional Turkmen yurt.

Previously located in the main square, the Arch of Neutrality was moved to the outskirts of Ashgabat in 2011. Despite this relocation, the multi-level structure remains a noteworthy attraction. It is crowned by a statue of former President Saparmurat Niyazov, which was designed to rotate to follow the sun.

Ashgabat is also renowned for its numerous fountains, with many scattered throughout the city. One of the most famous is the «Oguzkhan and Sons» fountain complex, which entered the Guinness Book of Records for its extensive array of 27 fountains spread across 15 hectares. This complex symbolizes the unity and peacefulness of the Turkmen people.

Just 19 kilometers from the capital are the ruins of the ancient city of Nisa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007. Excavations have revealed that Nisa thrived between the 4th and 2nd centuries BC, with notable structures including a ceremonial hall, a round temple, shrines, and mausoleums.

Not far from Ashgabat is Anau, a site dating back to the late 5th millennium BC. This ancient city features a mix of ruins from early urban settlements and more recent structures, including a 15th-century mosque.

The tallest building in Turkmenistan is the TV Tower, standing at 211 meters. It is decorated with an octagonal star that holds the Guinness World Record for the largest architectural depiction of a star. At 154 meters high, the tower houses a revolving restaurant.

Lastly, the city’s telephone booths are uniquely designed with white columns, glass, and gilded accents, making each one a distinct piece of art.