Cave Complexes

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The Ancient Cave Complexes of Southern Turkmenistan

Ekedeshik cave
Ekedeshik cave

In the far south of Turkmenistan, just a few kilometers from the Afghan border, lie some of the most fascinating historical monuments in the region. These mysterious structures have captivated the minds of researchers for over a century, while also stirring the imaginations of history enthusiasts and adventure tourists alike.

These are not just ordinary caves but intricate man-made catacombs carved into the soft sandstone on the right bank of the Murghab River, near the village of Tahtabazar. The largest of these caves is known as Ekegovak, which translates to «One Cave.» However, it is more than just a cave—Ekegovak is an elaborate underground network, with a single narrow entrance that is nearly invisible from the outside. The entrance is located 150 meters above the river, accessible only by a steep climb up the slopes of the Karabil Highlands.

The term «catacomb» is reminiscent of the vast underground chambers in the Roman Empire, where early Christians sought refuge from persecution, conducted religious ceremonies, and buried their dead. Today, any underground galleries with complex and winding passages are referred to as catacombs. These structures are not only found in Europe and Russia but also in Central Asia, with Ekegovak being perhaps the largest and most striking example in Turkmenistan. Several other cave complexes are scattered along the steep cliffs of the Murghab River in the Tahtabazar region.

The entrances to these caves are carved into vertical rock faces, making them accessible only by ladders from below or by treacherous climbs along hazardous paths. Alternatively, visitors can descend from above using ropes. This difficult access suggests that these underground structures were designed for safety and protection, serving as secure hideaways for their inhabitants. But who created these ingenious dwellings, and for what purpose?

Researchers are still trying to answer these questions. So far, Ekegovak is the most studied of these cave complexes. It features a two-tiered structure with a vaulted corridor extending 37 meters into the rock, built with a slight incline. Rectangular rooms line both sides of the corridor, with smaller chambers branching off from them. Thirty-five of these rooms are still accessible, while others have collapsed. In some places, small rooms with circular pits can be found—likely either filled wells or storage areas for supplies. Staircases with steep steps lead to a second level in some of the rooms.

At the end of the corridor, an oval niche resembling an altar can be found. The walls are dotted with recesses for lamps, as no natural light penetrates this deep into the caves. One of the chambers, although modestly decorated, appears to have been of particular significance—the entrance is marked by a primitive portal, and the interior is crafted with special care. This suggests that it may have been the residence of a local leader, clan chief, or another important figure.

Unlike other cave monasteries, there is no evidence of wall paintings, sculptures, or other artistic embellishments commonly found in Buddhist monasteries. However, the walls and ceilings of the corridors and rooms are covered with the marks of tools used to carve the caves, and they are also densely inscribed with signatures from past visitors. Many inscriptions are in Arabic script, while numerous Russian names, dated from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, are also visible. These inscriptions are likely remnants left by soldiers from local garrisons, stationed in Kushka—the southernmost outpost of the Russian Empire—and at the customs post in Tahtabazar, where caravans from Afghanistan passed through.

The issue of ventilation in these ascetic cells remains unresolved, but the caves do have certain advantages. In the scorching summer heat, they provide a cool refuge, while in the bitter winter cold, the warmth from fires can be retained within. From the narrow ledge in front of the catacombs, a wide panorama of the surrounding area unfolds. On a clear day, the view extends for miles, giving the cave inhabitants a strategic advantage to spot any approaching danger long before it arrived and retreat into their hidden settlement.

Today, we see Ekegovak and the neighboring caves in a state shaped by centuries of use and neglect. Over time, some parts were altered by later inhabitants, others collapsed, and still more were buried under debris. It will take significant effort to clear and thoroughly study these sites archaeologically before we can gain a clearer picture. Unfortunately, despite claims made in some tourist guides, no excavations have been conducted here to date.

The first European to set eyes on these catacombs and other cave groups in Karabil was British Army Captain F. de Laesso, who reported his findings to the Royal Geographical Society in London in 1885. That same year, the area was annexed by Russia, making it inaccessible to foreigners for over a century. However, Russian scholars did not waste time. In 1899, the caves were surveyed by Russian military engineer and diplomat P. M. Lessar, followed by mining engineer A. M. Konshin. Then, geologist and explorer Academician V. A. Obruchev visited the site. In 1890, he provided the first scientific description of the Karabil Highlands and their artificial caves in his book The Transcaspian Lowland. In the 20th century, many geologists, geographers, and archaeologists visited the site, but it was not until 1955 that academician G. A. Pugachenkova provided the first detailed description of these cave complexes.

Pugachenkova dated the caves to the 10th and 11th centuries, although this conclusion was based solely on surface finds that may reflect later habitation in the catacombs. What lies beneath the debris, where archaeologists have yet to dig, remains a mystery. While excavations are pending, various theories abound.

Twenty years ago, architectural historian S. G. Khmelnitsky proposed an intriguing hypothesis, suggesting that these artificial refuges were once monasteries in Central Asia—usually Buddhist, but sometimes Christian. Similar monuments are known in Western China (Yungang, Tianlongshan), Afghanistan (Bamiyan), Southern Uzbekistan (Kara-Tepe near Termez), and Tajikistan (Ajvaj). The geometric regularity and straight angles of Ekegovak suggest that skilled craftsmen created it, and that it was initially more than just a secret dwelling—it was likely a monastic community. The niche at the end of the corridor hints at this as well. The neighboring Dorgovak complex is also distinct from typical underground dwellings. If these ideas are accurate, the Karabil caves may date back to the 2nd to 4th centuries, much earlier than previously thought.

As with many lesser-known monuments, there are far more questions than answers surrounding these caves. Unsurprisingly, numerous legends have developed around this remarkable historical site. The creation of the catacombs is attributed to everyone from the soldiers of Alexander the Great to mythical jinn, and even to early Christians who, following the apostle Paul, sought to spread their faith far to the east.

Once a hard-to-reach refuge, Ekegovak is now open to tourists. A road leads to the base of the mountain, the cave complex is equipped with electric lighting, and the floor is covered with reeds to prevent dust from rising as visitors walk. The cave is open to visitors all day, and a knowledgeable guide will share everything known about this extraordinary place.

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