Nisa

Nisa, an ancient city located 15 kilometers west of Ashgabat, now lies in ruins with remnants of its fortress walls barely visible. However, 2,000 years ago, it was one of the most important centers of civilization in Central Asia and even served as the capital of Parthia for a time. The name «Nisa» actually refers to two fortress cities, situated 1.5 kilometers apart, whose histories diverged in 226 CE. These are known as New Nisa and Old Nisa.

Archaeological evidence suggests that the first settlements at the site of Nisa date back to the 4th millennium BCE, with a significant settlement emerging by the 1st millennium BCE. Located at the northern foothills of the Kopetdag Mountains, this settlement had transformed into a fortress by the 4th century BCE, serving to protect the northern borders of the Achaemenid Empire from nomadic invaders. Around this time, Alexander the Great passed through the area, and Nisa became part of his empire. After his death, the fortress became incorporated into the Seleucid Empire.

Less than a century later, semi-nomadic tribes from the Caspian Sea region captured Nisa. They established it as their capital, founding the Parthian Kingdom and creating a powerful dynasty that would dominate Asia for several centuries. It was during this period that the second city, now known as Old Nisa, was constructed. This city was a separate fortress and a lavish royal residence with palaces, throne rooms, treasuries, and temples. In contrast, New Nisa, which was actually older, remained a typical city with numerous homes, warehouses, and other buildings. Old Nisa thrived for nearly 500 years until it was destroyed in 226 CE by King Ardashir, who not only obliterated the Parthian Kingdom but also sought to erase the symbols of the fallen dynasty.

New Nisa continued to exist but, having lost its status as a capital and being pushed to the margins of a new state, began to decline. The subsequent history of Nisa is a long series of changes in rulers and conquerors, who alternately destroyed and rebuilt the city. In 651 CE, Nisa was captured by the Arabs, and Islam replaced the once-popular Zoroastrianism. In 1185, New Nisa was almost completely destroyed during internal conflicts but was rebuilt within a few decades. In the 1220s, Nisa became a battleground between local forces and the army of Genghis Khan, constantly besieged and changing hands.

In 1381, Nisa surrendered peacefully to the conqueror Amir Timur, but after his death, it again found itself embroiled in internecine wars. By the 16th century, Nisa had transformed into a powerful fortress playing a crucial strategic role as it stood on the border between the Central Asian kingdoms and Iran. However, by the early 19th century, with the development of new trade routes and methods of warfare, the fortress lost its importance. A new settlement, Bagir, was established nearby, and New Nisa gradually fell into ruins, now appearing as a vast desert mound covering about 20 hectares.

Old Nisa remained a mystery until the 20th century when its secrets began to be uncovered. Between 1946 and 1960, renowned Russian archaeologist Mikhail Masson, who was also known for his work on ancient Termez in Uzbekistan, Turkestan in Kazakhstan, and Merv in Turkmenistan, led extensive excavations in Old Nisa. Over 16 years of research, ruins of halls and rooms, temples, documents in the Parthian language, statues, and many other artifacts were discovered.

The fortress walls of Old Nisa are 9 meters high, 1,500 meters long, and include 43 towers and a bastion on the southern edge. Inside the fortress, several structures were identified, which are now referred to by scholars as the «Square House,» «Square Hall,» «Round Temple,» and «Red Building.» These structures and rooms were built in a Hellenistic style with elements of local culture. The walls were adorned with frescoes depicting various scenes, and the ceilings were supported by massive columns. Despite the Hellenistic influence, Zoroastrian temples were also present in Old Nisa.

During the excavations in Old Nisa, numerous artifacts were uncovered, the most famous of which are the statue of Rhodogune and ivory rhytons (vessels) with exquisite decorations. These and other findings are now housed in the State Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat, which is a must-visit following a trip to Nisa.

The final chapter in Nisa’s history came in 2007 when this remarkable ancient site was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.