Turkmenabat

Turkmenabat, the vibrant center of eastern Turkmenistan and the country’s second-largest city by population, is situated on the banks of the Amu Darya River. Historically, this area was once home to a fortress of the Bukhara Emirate called Chardzhui, meaning «the four canals.» This fortress was a strategic point, guarding the Amu Darya crossing against attacks from nomadic tribes. In 1886, when the Trans-Caspian Railway reached the fortress, Chardzhui began to grow, first as a military outpost and then as a civilian settlement. The construction of the railway bridge across the river in 1901 marked a significant development, and in 1940, the city’s name was transcribed as Chardzhou. In 1999, Chardzhou was renamed Turkmenabat, meaning «created by Turkmen.» Today, Turkmenabat stands as a developed industrial and cultural hub.

The roots of Turkmenabat’s history stretch deep into the centuries. The city’s origins, dating back to the early millennium, are closely tied to the «Great Silk Road,» which connected China with the Mediterranean through Central Asia in the 3rd century. One of the important stops along this famous route was the city of Amul, the earliest name of Turkmenabat. The name Amul was later transferred to the river, which became known as the Amu Darya, meaning «Amu River.»

Amul’s significance was largely due to its strategic location. It served as a crossing point over the wide and unpredictable Amu Darya. Trade routes converged here, leading not only along the Silk Road but also to Iran, India, and Eastern Europe. The city bustled with life as traders from many countries gathered under the roofs of caravanserais, engaging in lively commerce. With trade came the development of various crafts.

Archaeologists have uncovered copper coins from the Kushan Empire, dating from the 1st to the 9th centuries AD, in the ruins of Amul on the outskirts of Chardzhui (Chardzhou). Amul was part of this empire, and after its decline, the city gained independence.

Later, Amul became part of the Arab Caliphate. Arab historians recorded that Amul was a significant cultural center, with many scholars emerging from the city.

In the 11th century, the Seljuk Turks completely conquered Central Asia, and Amul came under the rule of Turkmen king Chaghri Beg. In the first half of the 13th century, Amul was completely destroyed by the Mongol-Tatars for resisting the forces of Genghis Khan. This devastation occurred in 1221.

Despite the catastrophic destruction by the Mongols in the 13th century, Amul managed to revive itself, thanks to its exceptional geographic location. Being at the crossroads of caravan routes that linked the East and West, Europe and Asia, Amul remained a vital location. For weary travelers, this oasis in the desert provided a much-needed refuge from the scorching heat, offering a place to rest and rejuvenate before continuing their journey.

The famous eastern poet and military leader Babur passed near the ruins of ancient Amul in 1511 with his large army. He camped near the riverbank, close to four irrigation canals. In his famous work, «Baburnama,» he referred to this place as «Chahardjui,» meaning «four streams.» Around this time, Amul ceased to exist, and the city’s new name, Chahardjui (or Chardzhui), gained prominence. This name later evolved into Chardzhou.

The city was part of the Bukhara Emirate, a feudal state where the Emir wielded absolute power, supported by the clergy. The lowest social class consisted of slaves, and Chardzhui was one of the centers where they were bought and sold. The city was mainly inhabited by merchants and craftsmen, and its leader was a Bek, the governor appointed by the Emir of Bukhara. The Bek’s residence was a large mud-brick fortress, surrounded by a wide moat filled with water. The fortress had four gates, each guarded round the clock by soldiers. Inside the fortress were a square, barracks, food storage warehouses, the homes of the Bek’s relatives and close associates, his palace with a garden and a pond, and a prison, which was a deep well where prisoners were held in terrible conditions. To the west and east of the fortress were the homes of merchants and craftsmen. The remnants of the fortress are preserved today as a valuable historical monument, and archaeologists have uncovered many fascinating artifacts there.

In the city and its surroundings, the majority of the population were Uzbeks, while the banks of the middle course of the Amu Darya were inhabited by Turkmen tribes such as the Ersari, Sakar, Sayat, Mukry, and others. The most numerous was the Ersari tribe, which settled here in the second half of the 17th century. The Turkmen people in this region engaged in agriculture and livestock breeding. The 18th century is considered the «golden» age of Turkmen poetry, mainly associated with the poet Makhtumkuli, whose life was connected with Lebap, the ancient name for the land along the middle course of the Amu Darya. A younger contemporary and worthy disciple of Makhtumkuli was the poet and warrior Seydi.

In the second half of the 19th century, Chardzhui was annexed to Russia, which significantly influenced the political, economic, and cultural life of the city and all of Central Asia. In the spring of 1875, Ural Cossacks, who were Old Believers, were resettled in Chardzhui by order of the Tsar due to their refusal to serve in the military for religious reasons. Devoted to their faith, the Cossacks settled near the Russian military fortifications.

New settlements were established along the banks of the Amu Darya, enabling the river to be used for navigation. Two years later, the steamboat «Samarkand» reached the Chardzhui pier from Turtkul. This event marked the beginning of steamship movement on the Amu Darya.

Next, railway tracks were laid, providing a rail connection from the Caspian Sea to Chardzhui. In 1896, the city was named «New Chardzhui.» Unlike «Old Chardzhui,» the new city had a predominantly Russian-speaking population, whereas the original population consisted solely of native ethnic groups. During this period, a railway bridge was built across the Amu Darya, which, on October 17, 1898, became the longest in the entire Russian Empire and the third longest in the world.

After the Emir’s power was overthrown and the Soviet government took over, the Bukharan People’s Soviet Republic was proclaimed on September 14, 1920, during the first All-Bukhara Kurultai. Chardzhui became part of this republic. In 1924, during the national-state demarcation of Central Asia, Chardzhui was included in the Turkmen SSR. In the 1920s and 1930s, Chardzhou began to develop as an industrial center of the republic. Its location in the middle of cotton and cocoon-producing regions led to the construction of cotton-processing and grain plants.

The Repetek Nature Reserve: A Desert Sanctuary

Founded in 1928, the Repetek Nature Reserve is a remarkable sandy desert reserve situated 70 kilometers southwest of Turkmenabat, within the southeastern sands of the Karakum Desert, near the Repetek railway station. Known as the hottest spot in Central Asia, the reserve was established to protect the unique desert landscape and its distinct flora and fauna, many of which are listed in the Red Data Book of endangered species.

The Amul-Chardzhuy Fortress

The Amul-Chardzhuy Fortress, dating back to the 10th and 11th centuries, is located just 10 kilometers from Turkmenabat. These ruins were once a formidable mud-brick fortress, surrounded by a wide moat that served as a defense against invaders. The fortress had gates on each side, aligned with the cardinal directions, each heavily guarded day and night. Inside the fortress, there was a central square, barracks, food storage facilities, and the palace of the Bek (governor). Notably, there was also a deep well used as a prison, where captives were held in harsh conditions. Today, the remaining fragments of this fortress stand as a valuable historical and archaeological site, offering a tangible connection to Turkmenabat’s storied past.

The Mausoleum of Allamberdar (Almutasir)

Located in the museum-city of Atamurat, the Mausoleum of Allamberdar is a grand structure built in the 11th century, reflecting the architectural style of the Seljuk period. The mausoleum, which was constructed in Northern Khorasan, features a distinctive design with an ornate façade adorned with intricately carved brickwork. The portal of the mausoleum prominently juts out from the main building, adding to its striking appearance. Inside, the mausoleum is characterized by a solemn and dignified atmosphere, with a single chamber housing a cenotaph—although no actual burial site has been discovered beneath or around the monument. It remains a mystery whether the remains were relocated, as no definitive information has been uncovered.

The Astanababa Mausoleum

Also part of the Atamurat museum-city, the Astanababa Mausoleum complex includes both a mosque and a tomb, dating back to the 11th century. This sacred site regularly hosts «ziyarat,» a ritual of worship performed by pilgrims. Although the true identity of Astanababa remains unknown, the mausoleum is revered for its spiritual significance, believed to offer healing and relief to those who visit. The site is considered a sacred wellspring, akin to the Islamic Holy Grail, providing solace and hope to its ever-growing number of visitors. The complex also includes the mausoleums of Zeyd-Ali and Zuweid-Ali, surrounded by a beautiful legend. According to this tale, Zuweida, the daughter of the ruler of Balkh (medieval Khorasan), was married off but tragically died soon after. In her memory, her grieving father commissioned the construction of a magnificent mausoleum, which, after several failed attempts, was finally completed using clay and water brought from Mecca, fulfilling the advice of a wise elder who appeared to the ruler in a dream.

The Caravanserai Dayakhatyn (Bay-Khatyn)

The Dayakhatyn Caravanserai, located on the ancient trade route between Amul and Khorezm, is an extraordinary example of 11th-12th century architecture. Though today only extensive ruins remain, this caravanserai was once a fortified rest stop for weary travelers, boasting round towers, arches, domes, and vaulted ceilings, all crafted from baked brick. The façade was elaborately decorated with brickwork in an ornamental style, and some sections of the walls still bear relief fragments inscribed with the names of Arab caliphs. Local legend tells of the caravanserai’s creation by a wealthy woman who, after years of waiting for her estranged husband to return from his travels, constructed the caravanserai to ease his journey. The story speaks to the deep cultural and emotional connections embedded in the structures of this ancient region.