The Farish District

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Discovering the Wonders of Farish District

Entrance to the Farish District from the side of Jizzakh
Entrance to the Farish District from the side of Jizzakh

Nestled in the heart of Uzbekistan, the Farish District is emerging as a captivating destination that invites travelers to explore its rich natural beauty and unique cultural heritage. As Uzbekistan actively develops its tourism sector, the government is shifting its focus from the well-trodden paths of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Tashkent to unveil the hidden treasures of lesser-known regions. With an emphasis on eco-tourism and the pristine landscapes of the Farish District, visitors can now discover a side of Uzbekistan that was once cherished only by a select few enthusiasts and local historians.

In 2021, the authorities initiated plans to establish recreational zones for water and eco-tourism along the shores of Lake Tudakul in the Navoi region and the Aydar-Arnasay lake system in the Jizzakh region. This initiative aims to tap into the vast potential of the largest freshwater body in the country, located at the eastern edge of the Kyzylkum Desert. The Farish District, situated just 270 kilometers from Tashkent, boasts the closest access to the picturesque shores of Lake Aydarkul, making it an appealing year-round destination—not just during the beach season. Indeed, tourists flock to Uzbekistan for far more than just sunbathing.

Traveling from Tashkent to the Farish District requires a journey through Jizzakh, the administrative center of the region. As you approach Jizzakh, the majestic Nurata Mountains rise to the northwest, while the undulating, rocky semi-desert of the Farish Steppe stretches out on the left, creating a stunning backdrop. Even along the rugged roads, a drive through this landscape during spring or autumn is a delight, with the milder temperatures and breathtaking scenery reminiscent of scenes from Bernardo Bertolucci’s film “The Sheltering Sky.”

Less than 50 kilometers from the district center, travelers must diverge from the main road onto a dirt track, where they will encounter numerous “road signs” in the form of small stone pyramids. In Turkic regions, these ancient markers often indicate proximity to sacred sites or natural wonders. This time, the attraction is not just one location but the extraordinary rock formation known as Ortacheku.

This miniature chain of pointed peaks, extending just over ten kilometers, captivates the imagination with its otherworldly landscapes. It resembles a miniature mountain country, easily traversable in a single daylight journey, allowing visitors to explore its many gorges. The stark, bare summits of fantastical shapes are surrounded by three humble settlements—Karatas, Nurak, and Ana-Muna—showcasing a blend of archaic lifestyles and modern touches. Here, locals live in traditional homes, tend to their flocks of sheep and goats, bake bread, and prepare meals in tandoors, the clay ovens fueled by wood.

As one gazes upon the alien landscapes of Ortacheku, thoughts inevitably turn to water. While the peaks of the Nurata Mountains soar to 2,500 meters above sea level and retain snow cover until mid-spring—nourishing springs and mountain streams—the heights of the local cliffs do not exceed 1,500 meters, and they lack permanent snowfields. Nevertheless, the unique geometry of the rock formation creates a compact labyrinth of sharp cones, forming hundreds of square kilometers of permeable surfaces conducive to subterranean water flow.

Even during the critically dry year of 2021, Ortacheku was nourished by dozens of springs in its vicinity. By late summer, all mountain streams dry up, but by November, every village still boasts a pond brimming with water, while homes are equipped with functional wells providing fresh drinking water. Here, water is indeed worth its weight in gold, which is why this sacred site is dedicated to the water source.

Near the village of Karatas lies the mazar (tomb) and sacred grove of Khoja Bogbon Ata. According to legend, this Sufi hermit, who lived on the slopes of Ortacheku in the early 10th century, miraculously summoned a life-giving spring from the rock, much like the biblical Moses, and planted a mulberry tree beside it. Experts from the cultural-historical society “Oltin Meros” (“Golden Heritage”) trace the origins of the Bogbon Ata cult to the mid-19th century. However, pilgrims believe that the grand mulberry tree in the sacred grove is at least 1,000 years old, and the relics of the saint in the mazar continue to grow in size, much like the hand of the Prophet Daniel in the famous mausoleum of Khoja Daniyor in Samarkand.

The landscape and ethnographic allure of the villages surrounding Ortacheku rival that of Uzbekistan’s current “capital of ethno-tourism,” the city of Baysun in the Surkhandarya region. Notably, the Farish District is five times closer to Tashkent than Baysun, making it an accessible alternative for those seeking authentic experiences.

As winter approaches, yurt camps and guesthouses along the shores of Aydarkul Lake close their doors on November 1st. However, for latecomers, the town of Bogdon offers the first European three-star hotel in the Farish District—Hotel Afruza. While the town itself may not boast cultural landmarks or historical monuments, it serves as a comfortable stopover for travelers eager to explore the surrounding region.

Signpost to the village of Eski Farish
Signpost to the village of Eski Farish

Historically, the current district center, Farish, was once a small village called Yatak. With the establishment of the Farish District within the Jizzakh region in the mid-20th century, it was renamed Yangikishlak (New Village), but locals colloquially refer to it as Farish—distinguishing it from the older settlement of Eski Farish (Old Farish), located 30 kilometers deeper into the desert. Interestingly, road signs along the route to Eski Farish occasionally display the name Porasht, which can be translated from Persian as “surrounded by a fortress.”

A popular narrative among Uzbek historians suggests that the great 14th-century ruler Amir Timur (Tamerlane) sought to transform his capital, Samarkand, into the largest and most opulent city in the world. To this end, he began naming nearby settlements after the capitals of renowned states of his time—Madrid, Baghdad, Cairo, Damascus, Shiraz, Sultania, and Paris. Over time, the local “Paris” morphed into Farish.

Local lore also offers alternative interpretations of the name Farish. A schoolteacher from Eski Farish, Maksud Madiev, believes the name translates to “cool place” or “place with fresh air,” especially in contrast to the surrounding desert. Some local historians and guides even connect the toponym Farish to the Persian word “farishta,” meaning “angel.” Thus, the center of this future tourist region could be likened to Paris, Buenos Aires, or Los Angeles in the Kyzylkum Desert—at least in potential.

In Eski Farish, traditional guesthouses have gained popularity among tourists. One notable guesthouse in the Nurata Mountains is “Zamira,” which caters to those seeking genuine exoticism and ethnographic experiences. This fully authentic rural home offers accommodations where guests can sleep on beds, but in larger groups, they may find themselves resting on the floor with kurpachi—traditional quilted mattresses. This experience is far from unpleasant; kurpachi are known for their softness, warmth, and beauty. Meals are prepared outdoors over an open flame or in the tandoor behind the house. Modern amenities, including European-style toilets and solar-heated showers, are also available.

Before departing this welcoming region, we couldn’t resist visiting the Sunday market in the village of Ana-Muna. In rural areas, the market is the heart of the community—a hypermarket under the open sky where everything from second-hand goods to fashionable clothing, outdated household appliances, fresh produce, meat, and livestock is sold. If you want to understand the daily lives of most people in Uzbekistan, visiting such a market is essential.

Just ten kilometers away, the waves of Aydarkul Lake lap gently against the shore—an oasis in the desert. Its vast expanses are breathtaking at any time of year, in any weather, offering a serene escape for those who venture off the beaten path.

Farish District with its stunning landscapes, rich cultural heritage, and warm hospitality is poised to become a must-visit destination for travelers seeking to experience the authentic essence of Uzbekistan. Whether you are drawn by the allure of its natural wonders, the charm of its villages, or the spiritual significance of its sacred sites, Farish welcomes you with open arms, inviting you to explore its hidden treasures and create unforgettable memories.

A Journey Through Uzbekistan’s Mountain Villages

From$1,600
11 Days / 10 Nights

Camel rides in Kyzylkum Desert
Visit sacred spring in Nurata
Swim at Aydarkul Lake
Hike in Nuratau mountains
Witness life in mountain village
Explore Bukhara’s historic sites

Embark on an unforgettable journey through Uzbekistan, exploring the breathtaking Nuratau Mountains, vibrant Bukhara, and historic Samarkand. Experience traditional yurts, stunning landscapes, and rich cultural heritage, while enjoying authentic cuisine and engaging with local communities along the way.