While Uzbekistan is often celebrated for its association with Tamerlane’s empire, the majestic Registan Square in Samarkand, and its renowned culinary delight, pilaf, it is also home to one of the world’s largest and most significant collections of petroglyphs. Located in the Sarmyshsay Gorge near the city of Nurata, these ancient rock carvings offer a fascinating glimpse into the lives of early human civilizations.
Discovered in 1958, the Sarmyshsay petroglyphs have drawn the attention of archaeologists and historians from around the world. The gorge’s unique geographical features, such as its abundant wildlife and water sources, made it an ideal habitation and hunting ground for primitive people. This, in turn, led to a rich concentration of rock art, making Sarmyshsay a veritable open-air museum.
Sarmyshsay is home to approximately 10,000 petroglyphs, with the majority dating back to the Bronze Age (3000-900 BCE). However, some of the images trace their origins to the Stone Age, starting from the 9th millennium BCE. These petroglyphs provide invaluable insights into the lives of ancient peoples, depicting scenes of hunting, dancing, and ritualistic activities. The exact dating of these images remains a complex task, requiring the analysis of various factors such as carving techniques, subject matter, and the presence of pigments.
The petroglyphs of Sarmyshsay predominantly portray wild animals like mountain goats, bulls, and deer, often in dynamic hunting scenes. Human figures are also depicted, sometimes engaged in what appear to be dances or rituals, offering a window into the cultural practices of our distant ancestors. These images not only serve as artistic expressions but also as historical records, preserving the legacy of early human activity in the region.
Beyond the petroglyphs, the Sarmyshsay reserve encompasses over 200 additional archaeological sites, including flint workshops, mines, and burial mounds. This extensive array of sites underscores the area’s historical importance and provides a comprehensive understanding of the ancient communities that once thrived here. For those looking to fully explore Sarmyshsay’s major attractions, hiring a knowledgeable guide is highly recommended due to the challenging terrain and the dispersed nature of the sites.
Given its remote location, Sarmyshsay remains relatively undisturbed by large numbers of tourists. This allows visitors to experience the petroglyphs in a serene and contemplative environment. However, the area’s isolation also means that visitors must come prepared, especially during the scorching summer months when temperatures can soar to 45-50 degrees Celsius. Adequate water supplies and sun protection are essential for a safe and enjoyable visit.
It is quite difficult to get to the reserve in summer, as the way to the reserve is blocked by the children’s camp Sarmyshsoy, through which you can neither pass nor drive. In winter, spring, fall that would not be a problem, but in summer – no way. But the children’s camp can be bypassed quite easily on an excellent dirt road. Instructions on how to do it you will find below.
In Google maps you need to build a route to the children’s camp Sarmyshsoy, but if suddenly, for some reason, it does not work, then you need to go as follows: from Samarkand you move along the highway towards Bukhara. After reaching the town of Navoi, turn to Nurata. About halfway to Nurata there will be a turn to the right, to the children’s camp Sarmyshsoy. The road passes through the Kyzylkum desert, it looks like this. Unusual, but in general quite monotonous:
After about 15 km you reach this road fork:
The road straight ahead leads to a children’s camp (which you can’t get through in summer for any money), but to the left is just a detour. Go left, on the dirt road, after 5-7 kilometers there will be a sign Sarmyshsoy to the right, where you need to turn.
At the end of the road to the left will be located yurt camp Sarmyshsoy, where you can stay overnight, and to the right will be just the museum of petroglyphs. To get to the place where the petroglyphs are located, you need to drive along the bed of a small river. In dry weather it is not a problem even for a small car, i.e. an off-road vehicle is not required.
The end point is this bridge:
Petroglyphs are located on both sides of the river near this bridge. In general, this place is highly recommend for a visit. It fits perfectly into the automobile route from Samarkand to Bukhara (with a stop in Nurata) and is really very interesting, causes a lot of strong emotions, and the place itself is just beautiful.