Sisian

Sisian is a modest town in southern Armenia, straddling the Vorotan River in a mountain basin, 204 kilometers southeast of Yerevan and 38 kilometers west of Goris. With a population of around 17,000, the town itself is unassuming, often serving as a transit point to the region’s remarkable archaeological and natural landmarks, such as the Ughtasar Petroglyphs and Zorats Karer.

Just before reaching Sisian, travelers encounter one of Armenia’s most striking natural sights—Shaki Waterfall. This 18-meter cascade emerges from the Shaki River, a tributary of the Vorotan, and drops dramatically into a gorge of dark volcanic cliffs. The area’s rock niches and deep grottoes once sheltered Stone Age humans—traces of their presence still remain. The waterfall’s raw power framed by cave-like cliffs creates a scene both powerful and serene.

In the town’s northwest stands the Church of Sisavan, a 7th-century structure commissioned by Syunik prince Koazat. Built in the classic Armenian domed-cross style, the church features a twelve-sided drum and well-preserved frescoes. The surrounding ground holds a medieval cemetery with scattered khachkars—some weathered, some still legible.

Sisian’s archaeological and ethnographic museum, located in the town center, preserves the area’s historical depth. But the most compelling legacies lie beyond the city limits.

Twenty kilometers north, etched into the smooth basalt faces of Mount Ughtasar, are the Ughtasar Petroglyphs. The mountain’s name, meaning “Camel Mountain,” reflects its shape. The carvings, dating from the 5th to 2nd millennia BCE, depict prehistoric life—scenes of hunting, rituals, flora, fauna, and abstract symbols. Spread across the slopes, these images offer a rare look into the mind of early man, rendered in precise, deliberate strokes.

The crown jewel of Sisian, however, is Karahunj—also known as Zorats Karer—a prehistoric monument on a plateau 1,770 meters above sea level, on the left bank of the Dar River. The site spans roughly seven hectares and consists of 220 basalt menhirs, each about two meters tall. Many stones feature round holes carved near their upper edge.

The monument’s age is still debated, with estimates ranging from 4,000 to 7,500 years. Globally, only two other megalithic sites share structural similarities—Stonehenge in England and Carnac in France—but Zorats Karer’s drilled holes set it apart, suggesting it may be even older and possibly unique.

The purpose of the complex remains uncertain. Numerous theories exist, but most scholars agree on two leading interpretations: astronomical observatory or ritual site. Its alignment with solar and lunar positions suggests intentional sky-mapping. Some believe the stone layout mirrors a celestial map, with specific stones corresponding to positions of the Sun, Moon, and visible planets. Others propose a religious function, viewing the site as a necropolis—where burial grounds symbolized the threshold between life and afterlife, between earth and the eternal.

Scientific teams have conducted equinox and solstice expeditions to test the astronomical theory, but the full story of Karahunj remains unwritten—etched only in stone, sky, and silence.