Bibi-Heybat Mosque

The Bibi-Heybat Mosque, a Shiite place of worship restored in the 1990s, stands majestically near the shores of Baku Bay, occupying the site of a mosque that was completely destroyed in 1936. This mosque is one of the three major sanctuaries in the Muslim world, housing the graves of direct descendants of the Prophet Muhammad. Within its walls lie four sacred tombs of individuals from his lineage.

Restored in 2008, the Bibi-Heybat complex encompasses both the mosque and ancient mausoleums. The new mosque was constructed from the ground up at this holy site, specifically over the tomb of Ukeyma Khanum, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad. The modern mosque was designed based on historical sketches, with architect Sanan Sultanov at the helm. The complex was officially inaugurated in 1999 and serves as a monument to the rich architectural traditions of Azerbaijan.

Located at the southern exit of Baku, the mosque is situated at the southwestern tip of Baku Bay, near the small Bibi-Heybat Bay. It is approximately 7 kilometers from the city center (Azneft Square) in the Bibi-Heybat settlement (Shikhovo). Visitors can easily reach the mosque from Azneft Square using various modes of transportation heading towards the southern exit, typically taking around 7-8 minutes, or by taking buses 125 or 205 from the “28 May” metro station.

To understand the origins of the mosque, one must journey back to the eighth century, when the conflict between the Arab Caliphs and the Imams (direct descendants of Muhammad’s daughter Fatima and his cousin Ali) escalated into armed confrontations. The change in the caliphate dynasty in the mid-eighth century, with the Umayyads being replaced by the Abbasids, altered the perception of the Imams, who enjoyed significant popularity among Muslims. This shift led to a religious and ideological struggle for power.

With the rise of Caliph Abu Ja’far al-Mansur (who ruled from 754 to 775), the most fervent supporters of the Imams (the Alids) faced persecution. During his reign, over 1,000 descendants of Fatima and Ali were killed. These events unfolded during the lifetime of the seventh Imam, Musa ibn Ja’far al-Kadhim (744-799), also known simply as Imam al-Kadhim. The Imam was feared and left untouched (Shia beliefs hold that he was ultimately killed), spending his life in Medina. However, his children, who did not seek political power, chose to hide from persecution on the outskirts of the Abbasid caliphate. Ukeyma, the daughter of the seventh Imam, along with her sisters, eventually found refuge in Baku. Her status was known only to a select few followers; to the authorities and the general populace, she was simply known as Bibi-Heybat (aunt of Heybat).

The exact relationship between Heybat and the Imam’s daughter remains unclear. Some suggest he was a loyal servant acting as her nephew, others claim he was a brother (the seventh Imam had 18 sons and 23 daughters), while some believe he was her husband. Regardless, he was buried beside Ukeyma Khanum under the name “Haji Bedir,” at her feet but at a lower level.

Details about Ukeyma Khanum’s life are scarce. We know she was also referred to as Hakime and lived a relatively long life. In Arabic, “Hakim” means “wise one,” while in Azerbaijani, it translates to “judge” (hakim). Interestingly, in a slightly different pronunciation, həkim means “doctor.” The circumstances surrounding Ukeyma Khanum’s death remain shrouded in mystery. It is unclear whether her children were buried beside her later, as was Haji Bekir, or if their burials occurred simultaneously. It is likely that this site served as a burial ground for notable figures, as the grave of her children’s nurse and the tombs of distinguished Shiites are also located nearby.

Regardless, Ukeyma Khanum’s burial site became a place of secret worship for many centuries, attracting not only locals from Baku but also pilgrims from afar. It wasn’t until the 13th century, following the collapse of the Arab Caliphate in 1258, that the true identity of this grave was revealed. During this time, Shirvan was ruled by Shah Abu-l-Fath Farrukhzad ibn Ahistan (1260-1282), also known as Farrukhzad II. His rule was nominal, as Shirvan was part of the Turkic Hulaguid state (1256-1335).

Constantly threatened by Tatar-Mongol raids from the north, which reached as far as the Kura River, the Shirvanshah needed significant symbols for national unity, and Ukeyma Khanum’s burial site became one such symbol. In response, Farrukhzad II decided to erect a mosque over her grave.

For this construction, he enlisted the renowned architect Mahmud ibn Sa’ad, who had previously designed the Molla Ahmad Mosque in Icheri Sheher (1300) and the Nardaran Fortress (1301). The Arabic inscription on the mosque’s wall reveals that Mahmud ibn Sa’ad was indeed the architect responsible for its construction. Interestingly, the identity of the commissioning patron remained unknown until 1841, when Ilya Berezin, a professor at St. Petersburg University and a prominent Turkologist and Iranologist, uncovered an inscription that read: “Ordered to be built by the exalted melik, the greatest sultan, protector of the state and faith, Abu-l-Fath Farrukhzad ibn Ahistan ibn Fariburz, assistant to the commander of the faithful, may Allah prolong his reign and sovereignty! In the year of the 80th (1281-1282).”

The mosque quickly garnered attention from the entire Islamic world, particularly among Shiites. It began to be mentioned in historical chronicles as one of the significant holy sites, frequently undergoing renovations and restorations. Chronicles from the son of Shah Ismail, Tahmasp I (1514-1576), indicate that substantial restoration work took place in the mosque during the 16th century. Under the reign of the Persian Shah Abbas I the Great (1571-1629), further grand construction projects were undertaken around it.

Moreover, the sheikhs who managed the Bibi-Heybat Mosque were directly appointed by the Persian shahs. By royal decree, the mosque was exempt from taxes and frequently received state property. No government official or landowner was allowed to charge any fees for services rendered to the mosque.

At that time, the concentration of four graves of direct descendants of the Prophet in one location was so significant to believers that theologians from around the world began to flock to Bibi-Heybat. A village of sheikhs developed around the mosque, which eventually evolved into the settlement of Shikhovo (Sheikhovo). The last major restoration of the 13th-century mosque was carried out by the imperial government in 1911.

With the advent of Soviet power in Azerbaijan, the attitude of government authorities towards the mosque changed dramatically. In 1936, under the personal orders of Mir Jafar Baghirov, the mosque was destroyed (the same year, two other significant places of worship— the Catholic Church of the Virgin Mary and the Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral— were also demolished).

Following the explosion, the site of the Bibi-Heybat Mosque was completely cleared. All gravestones were destroyed, buried, and covered with earth to ensure that no one could even locate the burial site. The destruction of this sacred site caused such an uproar in the Islamic world that the Soviet leadership soon passed a resolution “On the Preservation of Monuments of Architectural Historical Significance.”

To appease the international community, the leader responsible for the demolition, Salamov, received a 20-year prison sentence. Despite the former location of the mosque now being a barren wasteland, people continued to visit the site. In response, a decision was made to lay a road over the graves, paving it with asphalt.

It wasn’t until half a century later, in the 1980s, that officials began to realize the magnitude of their mistake and the unique relic they had lost. Serious scholarly work commenced to restore the mosque: all surviving photographs of the structure were processed, and based on numerous descriptions, the interior was redrawn. A restoration plan and a model were even created.

In October 1993, the Azerbaijani leadership issued a decree to restore the Bibi-Heybat Mosque based on scientifically validated models from the Soviet era. The ceremony marking the beginning of construction in July 1998 was personally attended by the country’s president. It took a full decade for the mosque to be completely rebuilt and to welcome its first visitors.