The Mukhtarov Palace in Baku stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of the nation’s history, marked by grand upheavals and transformations. It symbolizes the profound devotion shared between two individuals and commemorates the beautiful love story of Azerbaijani oil magnate Murtuza Mukhtarov and the Ossetian noblewoman Liza Tuganova.
This magnificent mansion, located on what was once Persian Street (now Murtuza Mukhtarov Street), is home to the beloved Wedding Palace, cherished by generations of Baku residents. Like many pre-revolutionary mansions in Baku, it belonged to remarkable individuals. Its owner, Agha Murtuza Mukhtarov, was one of the most prominent figures of his time.
Born in either 1855 or 1859 into a poor family in the suburb of Amirjan, his youth coincided with the onset of the first oil boom. Murtuza began his career working in the oil fields of Balakhany and Sabunchu. Possessing a sharp intellect and exceptional engineering skills, Mukhtarov quickly immersed himself in the intricacies of drilling technology, adapting it to the unique conditions of Baku. According to the recollections of veteran oil workers, he had an uncanny knack for detecting oil; he could almost determine the success of a drilling operation by the sound of the bit.
Over time, he acquired a small oil-bearing plot. However, the production and sale of crude oil failed to captivate this talented self-taught engineer; his true passion lay in drilling. He established small workshops for repairing and manufacturing oilfield equipment, eventually founding a company that, by 1910, boasted two major factories in the Sabunchu and Bibi-Heybat industrial districts. These factories were equipped with the most advanced technologies of the time, employing over two and a half thousand workers. Throughout various periods, Mukhtarov & Co. produced between a quarter and a third of all oilfield equipment in Baku.
Despite lacking formal education, Murtuza Mukhtarov was among the most gifted engineers of his era, making several inventions in the field of drilling and securing patents for them.
During one trip to Vladikavkaz, Murtuza Mukhtarov was invited to dinner at the home of Colonel Aslanbek Tuganov. It was there that he first laid eyes on the colonel’s middle daughter, Liza. According to Tuganov family accounts, Murtuza fell in love with her at first sight, having gone through a previous unsuccessful marriage. He proposed, but was met with a refusal. Although the Tuganovs were a respected noble family, they had fallen on hard times, and Murtuza, despite his fame and wealth, was still a commoner.
In a bid to win her heart, Mukhtarov quickly constructed a magnificent two-minaret mosque on the banks of the Terek River, designed in the style of Cairo’s Mamluk mosques. To this day, it remains one of Vladikavkaz’s main attractions. This gesture was a gift from the Baku oil king to the city where he found his love.
Murtuza’s act was appreciated, but more importantly, Liza had also fallen for him, and her father eventually gave his blessing for their marriage. Their wedding was an extravagant affair held in Vladikavkaz, with Liza arriving in Baku in a specially ordered carriage from Warsaw, accompanied by dozens of mountaineers on white horses.
Despite their age difference, the Mukhtarovs made a strikingly beautiful and harmonious couple. Tall and distinguished, Murtuza always dressed impeccably in the English style, spoke fluent Russian, and had a smattering of French. Liza, well-educated and fluent in several languages, was musically talented and had a keen appreciation for art. After marrying Murtuza, she seamlessly integrated into the Azerbaijani elite. Her gentle demeanor, graceful manners, and strong sense of dignity earned her respect in society, which she navigated with Murtuza by her side. He was generous, and she was kind-hearted. Liza Mukhtarova became known for her extensive social and charitable work. She was a board member of the Baku branch of the Caucasian Anti-Tuberculosis Society, providing significant financial support to its outpatient clinic, and was an active member of the Children’s Hospital Charity Society, assisting the Baku Muslim Charity Society “Nidjat” for several years.
It was for Liza that Murtuza Mukhtarov constructed the very palace on the former Persian Street in Baku. Legend has it that during one of her trips to Italy, Liza was enchanted by a particular palazzo. This was enough for her husband to bring back the plans for a similar building to Baku, where he erected an equivalent structure on one of the streets in downtown Baku.
The palace was designed by the talented architect Joseph Ploshko, one of the most prominent figures among the brilliant cohort of Polish architects and engineers who worked in Baku at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. His adept incorporation of local architectural and construction traditions, particularly the exquisite stonework, allowed the Mukhtarov Palace, built in a Gothic style, to acquire a unique Baku charm and character.
The palace was completed in a remarkably short time—from 1911 to 1912—and served as a delightful surprise for Liza Mukhtarova. During a stroll through the city, Murtuza drove his wife to the palace, and upon her awestruck exclamation, “It’s a fairy tale!” he quietly replied, “This fairy tale belongs to you.” It was within these walls that the most memorable and significant years of the Mukhtarovs’ lives would unfold.
In 1914, Liza established the Muslim Women’s Charitable Society in Baku, which included some of the most renowned Azerbaijani intellectuals and the wives of prominent Baku industrialists. The society operated from the Mukhtarov Palace on Persian Street. They organized charitable evenings, with proceeds dedicated to assisting impoverished families and orphans. The grand and welcoming Mukhtarov Palace became a consistent venue for such events.
The Mukhtarov home was open almost daily for afternoon tea gatherings, known as “five o’clock tea parties.” Liza Mukhtarova, having no children of her own, took a special interest in orphans. Historical documents reveal that Murtuza Mukhtarov donated a parcel of land measuring one decare and 2,200 square fathoms (approximately two and a half hectares) in the village of Gala, near Baku, to the Muslim Women’s Charitable Society for the construction of two orphanages. Unfortunately, the onset of World War I and subsequent revolutionary upheavals prevented these plans from coming to fruition.
In 1920, when the 11th Red Army entered Baku, several Red Army soldiers rode into the Mukhtarov Palace. According to local lore, Murtuza, in a desperate act, shot at the uninvited guests with a revolver, ultimately taking his own life. Liza Khanum was forced to seek refuge in the basement of a nearby house, as the palace had been converted into a Red Army headquarters. Family accounts suggest that she entered into a sham marriage with a Turkish diplomat, which facilitated her escape from the turmoil. A few years later, she found herself in France. Very little is known about her later life; to protect her remaining family in Baku, she wrote few letters. It is known, however, that she passed away in Paris in the mid-1950s. The whereabouts of Liza Mukhtarova-Tuganova’s burial, as well as that of her tragically deceased husband, remain unknown. Yet, the Gothic palace on the street now bearing Murtuza Mukhtarov’s name continues to remind the people of Baku of this extraordinary love story.
P.S. Until 1937, the building housed the Ali Bayramov Women’s Club, which played a significant role in the emancipation of Azerbaijani women and the eradication of illiteracy. For many years afterward, the palace served as an art gallery. Several generations of Baku residents now know it as the Palace of Happiness, a remarkable place not only for its architecture and history but also for its special aura.