Old City (Icheri Sheher)

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Icheri Sheher: The Old City of Baku

Inside Old City, Baku
Inside Old City, Baku

Icheri Sheher, translating to “Inner City” in Azerbaijani, is the historic heart of Baku, where the story of Azerbaijan’s capital began. Locally, this area is often referred to as “The Fortress” or simply “The Old City.” As a prominent architectural monument, Icheri Sheher was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, and in 1977, it was recognized as an architectural and historical reserve of Azerbaijan.

The historical complex is home to a plethora of architectural landmarks that have survived the test of time, including mosques, towers, churches, squares, and other significant structures from the era of the Shahs.

Situated in the center of Baku, Icheri Sheher is bordered by the Seaside Boulevard to the east and south. Approximately 500 meters from the reserve lies the Caspian Sea. The Old City is perched on a hill in the Sabail district of Baku, with Neftchilar Avenue running along its eastern edge, while the Philharmonic Garden is located to the southwest, beyond the complex.

The territory of the Old City is surrounded by a formidable wall, which reaches a width of about 3.5 meters and, in some places, rises to a height of 10 meters. This wall not only demarcates the boundaries of the reserve but also holds significant cultural value, serving as one of the architectural monuments of the area. The total area of the reserve covers 22.1 hectares, and within its confines, around 1,300 families currently reside.

History

Historians trace the origins of Icheri Sheher back to the 5th century AD. Archaeological excavations have confirmed that the Old City began as a small settlement during antiquity, with artifacts dating back to the 6th to 1st centuries BC uncovered within its boundaries.

During the early medieval period, the settlement was part of a distinct administrative unit in the Shirvan region. From the 7th to the 10th century, little is known about present-day Baku. The remnants of the medieval city at the borders of Icheri Sheher have been dated to the 8th century, indicating that between the 5th and 10th centuries, the city was just beginning its journey toward economic development.

Following the disintegration of the Arab Caliphate in the 11th century, the Shirvanshahs dynasty became the ruling power in the area surrounding the Old City. In the 12th century, the ruling authority’s residence was moved from Shemakha to Baku, marking the establishment of Icheri Sheher as we know it today.

Once the Shirvanshahs’ residence was relocated to Baku, a fortified wall was constructed around it, and defensive structures, like the Maiden Tower, were built at the center of the complex. Following a prolonged period of establishing Shirvan as an independent state with Baku as its capital, the economy flourished from the 15th to the 16th century, leading to the construction of new buildings, including the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, bridges, tombs, and caravanserais.

Icheri Sheher is not just a collection of historical sites; it is a vibrant community where history and modern life coexist. The Old City is home to approximately 1,300 families, who contribute to the cultural tapestry of Baku. As visitors wander through its narrow, winding streets, they encounter not only architectural marvels but also the daily lives of those who call this ancient place home.

Attractions in the Old City

Icheri Sheher attracts numerous tourists from around the globe each year. The ancient quarter is open to visitors 24/7, and entry to the “Inner City” is free for all.

Within Icheri Sheher, visitors can encounter historical monuments from a bygone era at every turn. The area is dotted with fortifications, the palace complex of the Shirvanshahs, baths, and caravanserais. Numerous ancient mosques and local museums showcase artifacts discovered during archaeological excavations in the Old City.

In addition to its wealth of architectural landmarks, Icheri Sheher is home to hotels, restaurants, and bars, as well as embassies of foreign nations.

The Maiden Tower

Located in the southeast of Icheri Sheher, the Maiden Tower is a local landmark that stands at 28 meters tall, with walls measuring 4 to 5 meters thick. Scholars believe the tower was constructed in the 12th century, as evidenced by inscriptions from that period. Until the early 20th century, the Maiden Tower served as a lighthouse.

Fortress Gates of the Northern City

On the northern side of the Icheri Sheher walls, visitors can find the Shemakhinsky Gates and the Shah-Abbas Gates, also known as the “Double Fortress Gates.” The Shah-Abbas Gates were relocated from the outer wall and originally built during the reign of Zulfiqar Khan between 1608 and 1609. They were moved to the inner wall by order of the Baku governor. A bilingual plaque naming the gates is installed above them, with the “Double Fortress Gates” standing approximately 9.5 meters tall and 4.5 meters wide.

The House of the Baku Khans

Adjacent to the Shemakhinsky Gates lies the complex of the Baku Khans’ palace, which dates back to the 18th century and consists of five enclosed courtyards. In the early 19th century, this site housed a unit of Russian troops. During the medieval period, the Baku Khans’ palace featured a garden. Archaeological excavations in the 20th century uncovered various artifacts from this historic site.

The Palace of the Shirvanshahs

The territory of the Shirvanshahs’ residence, along with its surrounding structures, is designated as a separate palace complex. Scholars date the beginning of its construction to the 12th century, with completion occurring in the 15th century. This palace complex is situated at the highest point of the Old City. In 1964, the residence was granted the status of a museum-reserve, and today, guided tours are conducted throughout its grounds.

The Baths

Among the notable attractions within the Old City are the traditional baths. The most famous is the Shirvanshahs’ bathhouse located near the palace. Other notable baths in the “Inner City” include those of Haji Gaib, Agha Mikail, Kasum-bek, and Agha Zeynal, with construction dates ranging from the 15th to the 19th centuries.

Caravanserais

The Old City also features caravanserais—places along trade routes that served as resting spots for travelers. In Icheri Sheher, notable caravanserais include the Khan Caravanserai, the Multani Caravanserai, the Bahur Caravanserai, and the Kasum-bek Caravanserai. The Khan Caravanserai, built in the 12th century, is considered the oldest structure, while the Bahur and Multani caravanserais were erected in the 15th century. The Kasum-bek Caravanserai dates back to the 17th century.

Mosques

Among the key attractions in Baku are the mosques constructed during the medieval period. The Old City is home to a wealth of these historical religious sites, offering plenty for visitors to explore. The most frequently visited is the Palace Mosque, located within the Shirvanshahs’ complex.

One of the earliest mosques in the city is the Muhammad Mosque, which dates back to the 11th century. The remnants of the Baba Kuhi Baku Mosque were discovered during archaeological excavations conducted between 1990 and 1993, revealing that it was built in the 9th century.

Other notable mosques in Icheri Sheher include the Sheikh Ibrahim Mosque, the Juma Mosque, the Seyid Yahya Mosque, the Beglyar Mosque, the Haji Bani Mosque, the Lezgian Mosque, the Mekteb Mosque, the Gileili Mosque, the Chin Mosque, the Haji Eybat Mosque, the Molla Ahmed Mosque, the Mirza Ahmed Mosque, and the Khidir Mosque. These structures were constructed between the 12th and 19th centuries.

Museums in the Old City

In addition to its architectural and historical monuments, Icheri Sheher is rich in various public facilities, including several active museums.

Since 1964, the Maiden Tower has functioned as a museum complex. Currently, three floors of this structure house exhibition halls featuring archaeological finds dating back to the 12th century. The fourth floor showcases medieval weaponry, with all exhibits being replicas, while the originals can be viewed at the Azerbaijan History Museum.

The Palace of the Shirvanshahs also serves as a museum, housing artifacts discovered during excavations of the area. Among the valuable items displayed are the “Bailov Stones” from the long-destroyed Bailov (Sabail) Castle of the 13th century.

The Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography is situated in the historic house of Haji Mamed, also known as the “House with Chains.” Here, visitors can explore archaeological finds ranging from ancient times to the medieval era.

The Miniature Book Museum boasts a collection of over 4,000 exhibits gathered from 62 different countries. Established in April 2002, the museum was founded by Z. Salahova.

Additionally, within the Old City of Baku, there are a couple of houses-museums dedicated to renowned figures in the arts, such as the pianist and composer V. Mustafazade and the artist K. Aliyev. The historical home of Mustafazade features around 1,200 various artworks, items, and personal belongings of the artist, while the house-museum of Aliyev showcases 127 canvases, including carpets adorned with portraits of famous individuals.

Throughout the year, Icheri Sheher plays host to various cultural events and festivals that celebrate Azerbaijani traditions and heritage. These events often include music performances, art exhibitions, and craft fairs, allowing both locals and tourists to engage with the rich cultural landscape of the area. The lively atmosphere during these occasions enhances the experience of exploring the Old City, making it a dynamic hub of activity.

With its ancient walls, majestic towers, and vibrant cultural scene, the Old City invites visitors to step back in time and offers an unforgettable glimpse into the heart of Azerbaijan’s capital. A visit to this enchanting locale is sure to leave a lasting impression, making it a must-see destination for anyone exploring Baku.