If fate has brought you to Baku for just a few hours, your first destination should undoubtedly be the heart of the city: Icheri Sheher, the oldest part of the capital. This historic district is brimming with surprises and fascinating discoveries, offering both architectural wonders and unique souvenirs.
Although officially designated as a historical and architectural reserve, access to its charming streets is completely free. This is because Icheri Sheher is not merely a tourist facade; it is a vibrant, living part of Baku. Icheri Sheher is the soul and heartbeat of the city!
Your journey will begin at one of the monumental gates leading into this enchanting area. Which gate you encounter first is of little importance; you can choose a circular route, an infinity loop, or simply wander through Icheri Sheher at your leisure, allowing inspiration to guide you. Think of Andrei Mironov in “The Diamond Arm” film as you explore.
Be sure to frequently glance upwards—there, you’ll find the famous intricately carved Baku balconies, each more beautiful than the last. Don’t miss the Bazaar Square, where a historical complex dating back to the 12th century was uncovered by archaeologists during urban renovations and meticulously restored. Today, it serves as an open-air museum, where you can stroll beneath the stone arcades of ancient buildings, admire memorial plaques, animal sculptures, ancient gravestones, and intricately carved steles. Nearby, you’ll find the Juma Mosque, a true lacework of stone.
If you’re pressed for time and wish to avoid getting lost in Baku, your best landmark is the Maiden Tower. This architectural marvel is steeped in mystery. Standing approximately 30 meters tall, it can be seen from almost anywhere in Icheri Sheher. It is definitely worth taking a closer look at its unique shape, which you won’t find replicated anywhere else in the East. The cylindrical tower tapers as it rises and is perched atop a rocky outcrop, where the Caspian Sea once lapped at its base. The exact date of its construction remains unknown, with scholarly opinions varying by as much as ten centuries, likely due to the fact that the monument was built in several stages. The foundation dates back to the 1st century AD, while the lower tiers were constructed in the 5th to 6th centuries.
Locals affectionately refer to their iconic beauty as Gyz Galasy, and without a doubt, it stands as one of the oldest structures in the republic. Today, the tower houses a museum, and at its summit, there is an observation deck providing stunning views of the city. The Maiden Tower, along with the entire Icheri Sheher district, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Just a short walk from the Maiden Tower, you’ll discover ancient caravanserais. Baku was one of the key cities along the Great Silk Road, and since ancient times, caravans laden with precious goods would stop here to rest. Modern-day travelers can visit one of these caravanserais to enjoy a meal or browse for souvenirs.
Wherever you wander in Baku, your feet will inevitably lead you to the Palace of the Shirvanshahs. This complex of buildings served as the residence for rulers and includes the Shirvanshahs’ tomb, a palace mosque, inner gardens, and royal baths. It also features an impressive collection of artifacts in the palace museum. The most valuable finds, uncovered by archaeologists exploring the ancient parts of Baku, are housed here—ranging from weapons and exquisite jewelry to silver and copper engravings, elegant trays, goblets, and pitchers. Set aside at least two to three hours to fully appreciate the palace.
Among the most enigmatic collections in the museum are the so-called “Bailov Stones,” remnants of a fortress shrouded in mystery. The Sabail Castle is often referred to as the “Baku Atlantis.” While the reality of Atlantis from legends is debated, the existence of Sabail Castle is well-documented. In 1230, the Shirvan ruler commissioned the construction of a fortress on one of the islets in Baku Bay to protect the city from naval attacks. The citadel was both powerful and beautiful, but the ruler underestimated the treachery of the elements. After a short time, this magnificent palace succumbed to the sea, eventually becoming a legend.
This island lies just 350 meters from the shore, and in the late 2000s, something incredible happened: the tops of structures emerged from the water! Though they had suffered from the ravages of time and tide, scientists managed to recover portions of the castle walls, bas-reliefs, and slabs from the seabed. This discovery allowed researchers to accurately identify the year of construction, the name of the architect, and the ruler during whose reign the citadel was built.
To conclude your walk through this legendary city, make your way to Kichik Gala Street, the site of the famous fall of the hero Yuri Nikulin—”fell-rose-gips.” Even if you don’t immediately recognize the spot, you’ll likely find others dramatically falling nearby, creating a lively atmosphere. It’s an excellent opportunity to capture a memorable photo on this charming Baku street or to join in the fun and momentarily embrace the life of a smuggler, if only for a moment.
As you stroll through the narrow lanes of Icheri Sheher, take the time to absorb the rich tapestry of history that surrounds you. Each corner and every stone whispers tales of the past, from ancient traders to modern-day adventurers. The blend of cultures, the intricate architecture, and the vibrant local life create an unforgettable experience that encapsulates the essence of Baku.