Embroidery is one of the most ancient forms of folk art, intricately woven into the rich spiritual tapestry of Azerbaijani culture. The techniques and compositions associated with Azerbaijani embroidery can be traced back to the earliest periods of human history, reflecting a deep connection to the past.
The origins of Azerbaijani embroidery can be established through archaeological findings. The earliest examples of ornamental designs, resembling those found in embroidery today—such as straight lines, broken lines, zigzags, dots, circles, triangles, and diamonds—have been discovered on ceramic vessels dating back to the early Bronze Age, around 3000 B.C.
Azerbaijani embroidered pieces are renowned for their abundance and diversity of motifs, with floral designs being particularly prominent. Commonly depicted flowers include roses, narcissus, pinks, poppies, lilies, and blossoms from fruit trees, alongside various shapes of ears and leaves. Geometric patterns also play a significant role in the embroidery, featuring straight and broken lines, zigzags, triangles, quadrilaterals, six- and eight-pointed rosettes, diamonds, stars, and symbolic representations of the sun.
Birds are a favored theme in Azerbaijani embroidery, with designs showcasing nightingales, peacocks, pigeons, parrots, hoopoes, sparrows, pheasants, quails, and partridges. Among the fauna, the goitered gazelle, turtles, dragon-like snakes, and horses frequently appear in these artistic expressions. Everyday household items, such as pink water vessels, comb cases, cosmetic bottles, and jugs, also served as inspiration for embroidery.
Several distinctive techniques characterize Azerbaijani embroidery, including gold sewing, damask stitch, chain stitch, and the use of spangles, beads, and platelets. Among these, gold sewing is the most ancient technique, traditionally executed on closely woven fabrics. The ideal materials for this form of embroidery included solid-colored velvets in shades of red, claret, violet, and green, as well as thin cloths of various tones, brocade, satin, and morocco leather. Craftsmen utilized factory-produced gold and silver threads to create their intricate designs.
Common items adorned with gold sewing included outer garments for women, headwear, household articles, and decorative elements for horse harnesses. It was customary for brides to include items embellished with gold sewing in their dowries, signifying their value and artistry.
Chain stitch, another prominent technique, was typically worked on locally made or imported velvet and cloth in deep hues of red, black, and blue. This method allowed artisans to create complex and intricate patterns using vibrant silk threads against a dark background. Notably, chain stitch was not solely a female craft; many skilled men also excelled in this form of applied art. Craftsmen would first outline the future design on a tambour-fastened material before filling in the entire area with embroidery. Chain stitch was commonly used to decorate women’s clothing, cushion covers, bath mats, and bedspreads.
Damask stitch is another widely practiced embroidery technique, created using soft pastel-toned silk and wool threads, often combined with gold. This style was applied to garments, wall hangings, face veils, and curtains, adding elegance and beauty to everyday items.
The use of pearls and beads in embroidery patterns adds an intriguing dimension to Azerbaijani textiles, adorning clothing and household objects with shimmering embellishments. Spangle embroidery, which involves sewing spangles onto fabric along the contours of colorful silk thread patterns, is another captivating technique.
Finally, the motif and spiral techniques are relatively newer additions to the rich tapestry of Azerbaijani embroidery, showcasing the evolving nature of this art form while maintaining its deep cultural roots. Each stitch and pattern tells a story, preserving the heritage and artistry of the Azerbaijani people for generations to come.