The Nukh Fortress

Located within the ancient walls of Nukh Fortress lies the Palace of the Sheki Khans, a captivating landmark that stands as the most popular attraction in Azerbaijan’s most tourist-friendly town. Known as Nukh until 1968, this historic fortress is a testament to the region’s storied past and architectural grandeur.

Construction of the fortress began in 1765, led by the khan himself, even before the catastrophic flood in 1772 that washed away what is now referred to as “ancient” Sheki. While the flood expedited the khan’s relocation, it was not the sole reason for it. The old Sheki had already suffered devastation from wars waged by the first khan, Gaji Chelebi, against Persia in his quest for independence. Furthermore, Nukh’s proximity to the Gelarsan-Gerarsan fortress—Sheki’s last line of defense, which was never captured by Nadir Shah in 1743—made it a strategic choice for the khan. The Nukh citadel is perched above the Yukhary-Bash quarter (the old part of the city), with Fatali Akhundzade Street leading visitors to its gates.

The fortress walls, constructed in the 1760s, stretch for 1.3 kilometers. Designed to withstand the weaponry of the Caucasian highlanders, steppe nomads, and Persian soldiers, the fortress did not require earthen ramparts or bastions with casemates. Its 12 towers are strategically oriented towards the Gurganjachay River, with nine facing the water, and the structure is seamlessly integrated into the hillside, which rises by 40 meters within the fortress grounds. The height of the outer wall is eight meters, while the inner wall measures four meters, providing an unobstructed view of the city below.

Entry to the fortress is free of charge. To the right of the entrance stands a garrison prison comprised of two buildings, the outermost of which dates back to 1895. The outer building has served as a library since Soviet times, while the inner section was recently transformed into a Crafts House.

Above the former prison is a structure even older than the khan’s palace—the Garrison Church of the Three Saints. Its origins are somewhat obscure, but it is known that in 1829, the building was converted from a palace mosque into an Orthodox church. This architectural style, using similar materials and forms, was characteristic of churches built in Caucasian Albania.

The last battle at the fortress walls occurred in September 1838 when mountaineers attacked Nukh, led by Iskander-bek, who claimed to be a Sheki prince and purportedly the grandson of the last khan, who died in Persian exile. However, nature delivered the final blow in 1896 when a mudflow destroyed the upper wall, resembling a wooden fence. The fortress’s current appearance is the result of restorations carried out in the 1950s.

The most authentic section of the fortress seems to be the wall facing the Gurganjachay River, adorned with chicken coops and gardens, yet featuring the only polygonal tower rather than a round one.

At the heart of Nukh Fortress lies the former barracks, constructed in 1867. Since 2018, this building has housed the “Abad” pottery center, showcasing not only stained glass and silk but also the region’s renowned ceramics made from local clays. The market here is quite vibrant, offering a variety of souvenirs and handicrafts at reasonable prices. You can even check here a shebeke workshop.

In fact, several more barracks from different periods are located within the fortress walls.

The barracks that have become a hub for potters is situated within the very heart of the citadel—the khan’s palace. Built between 1765 and 1797 (the exact timeline remains unclear), the palace originally comprised a complex of buildings, of which only a few utility structures, including a cellar, have survived.

Surrounded by a stone-walled garden, the palace is complemented by a pair of giant plane trees. These trees, planted under unknown circumstances in 1530, were already ancient by the time of the khan’s construction. The right plane tree, known as the Khan-Plane, stands at 34 meters tall with a circumference of 11.5 meters.

Following the dissolution of the khanate in 1819, the palace served as a government office and became a notable attraction visited by prominent figures such as Leo Tolstoy, Nikolai Raevsky, and Alexandre Dumas. It underwent its first restoration between 1848 and 1851, with frescoes being renewed and enhanced well into the 20th century.

The palace is relatively small, measuring 37 meters in length, 8.5 meters in width, and 10 meters in height. It features two floors with identical layouts, and the upper level boasts a unique through-window design that allows for an abundance of natural light.

The interiors of the khan’s palace are truly magnificent, and the first striking feature that captures visitors’ attention is the shabaka walls—traditional Azerbaijani stained glass that transforms the space into a dazzling tapestry of light. The reflections of these intricate patterns dance across the floor, creating a mesmerizing effect, especially under the bright sun, as they shift from the floor to the walls throughout the day. The palace faces southwest, allowing ample sunlight to illuminate its beauty. The filigree wooden frames were expertly crafted by local artisans, while the glass itself was imported all the way from Venice. The frescoes adorning the walls are the work of many talented artists from Azerbaijan, with renowned master Mirza Jafar from Shemakha contributing to the first floor’s decorations between 1895 and 1896.

Within the palace, there are six rooms, including a grand hall on each floor, flanked by two smaller chambers. The main room on the second floor stands out as the most significant space in the palace. Unlike the lower hall, it lacks a fireplace and a well but boasts windows on both sides, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The ceiling features the oldest frescoes, created in the late 18th century by Abbas-Kuli, the palace’s architect. The walls were adorned in 1902 by the master Ghumbar, along with his brother Safar and son Shukur from Karabakh.