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Kyrgyzstan in Mid-May – Issyk-Kul Region Exploration (2 Weeks)

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 azav
(@azav)
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Hello everyone!
With all hopes dashed for Western Europe’s borders opening any time soon, I’ve decided to swap my plans and head to Kyrgyzstan for two weeks in mid-May. My focus will be on exploring the Issyk-Kul region. The plan is to rent a car, sleep in yurts and tents, and organize some hiking trips.

After recovering from the shock of flight ticket prices between May and August (what happened there?), my resolve to visit Kyrgyzstan remains solid – those photo reports are simply stunning.

Here’s my rough list of places to visit:

  1. Ala-Archa Gorge
  2. Burana Tower
  3. Kegeti Gorge, Kegeti Waterfall
  4. Chon-Kemin Valley
  5. Song-Kul Lake
  6. Skazka Canyon
  7. Barskoon Waterfall
  8. Arabel Plateau
  9. Jeti-Oguz, Maiden’s Tears Waterfall (or is it “Girls’ Tears”?)
  10. Karakol Gorge
  11. Ala-Kul Lake (hiking)
  12. Altyn Arashan (hiking)
  13. Abandoned Town of Enilchek
  14. South Inylchek Glacier (hiking)
  15. Merzbacher Lake (hiking)

A few burning questions for the forum:

  1. Since two weeks obviously won’t be enough for everything, I’m looking for feedback on what to skip. I assume South Inylchek Glacier and Merzbacher Lake might be too ambitious – both require multi-day treks, right?
  2. I’ve read conflicting info about the abandoned town of Enilchek. I hear you now need a border permit to visit. Where and how do you obtain one?
  3. What’s the weather like in mid-May at these high-altitude spots? Are there roads that could still be closed due to snow? Is there any official schedule for when mountain passes open?
  4. Would renting a crossover/SUV be sufficient for these locations? Reviews seem mixed – roads sound “mostly decent,” but I’m skeptical.
  5. Are the alpine lakes on this list likely to still be frozen in May?
  6. Any “hidden pitfalls” I should know about for these locations (like the Enilchek permit issue)?

Huge thanks in advance!


   
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(@lightmax)
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Great itinerary! Two weeks in Kyrgyzstan will be magical, though you'll need to prioritize. Let’s break down your questions:

  1. What to skip:
    You’re correct that South Inylchek Glacier and Merzbacher Lake are quite demanding. Both require multi-day hikes and serious prep, so unless you’re fully geared and have a guide, they’re best left for a dedicated trek.

    Ala-Kul Lake and Altyn Arashan, however, are very doable with good stamina. I’d keep those.

  2. Enilchek Town – Permits:
    The abandoned town is accessible, but you do need a border permit for yourself, not the vehicle. These can be arranged in advance – highly recommend doing so before you arrive.

  3. Weather in mid-May & Road Closures:

    • Expect unpredictable weather in the mountains – snow in May is still common at high altitudes, particularly at Song-Kul Lake and Arabel Plateau.
    • While some roads to Song-Kul might still be closed, at least one route is usually passable by mid-May.
    • Your best bet is to check with car rental agencies in Bishkek or local guesthouses closer to the date. They’ll have the freshest road condition info.
  4. Crossover vs. SUV:
    A crossover will technically get you to most places (roads around Issyk-Kul and Karakol are pretty decent), but for comfort and peace of mind, an SUV is worth the extra cost. Many mountain tracks can turn treacherous if it rains.

  5. Frozen Lakes in May:
    Most alpine lakes, like Song-Kul and Ala-Kul, will still be frozen in May. Skazka Canyon and Issyk-Kul, however, are snow-free and stunning. Issyk-Kul itself is swimmable if you’re brave – water’s cold but bearable with a wetsuit. You can rent wetsuits and even try windsurfing here: +996555690123 (15 km from Balykchy, northern shore).

  6. Other tips and pitfalls:

    • Altitude: Prepare for chilly nights, especially in yurts. Many yurt camps on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul (near Jeti-Oguz and Bokonbaevo) offer heated yurts, so ask ahead.
    • Guides: For Ala-Kul and Altyn Arashan treks, consider hiring a local guide. You can usually arrange this at guesthouses in Karakol.
    • Altyn Arashan Transport: You can hike up, but if you’re short on time (or stamina), UAZ jeep transfers are available – just ask around in Karakol.
    • Border zones: Places like Arabel Plateau and Enilchek require special permits. Don’t leave these arrangements to the last minute.

Quick suggestion: If you’re after a bit of everything – hiking, lakes, and cultural sights – focus on these:

  • Ala-Archa Gorge (great for a first hike)
  • Skazka Canyon (a surreal spot)
  • Jeti-Oguz and Karakol Gorge
  • Song-Kul (if the road is open)
  • Altyn Arashan (hot springs will reward your effort)

Have a great trip, and feel free to ask more if you need specific tips. Kyrgyzstan won’t disappoint!


   
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 azav
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many thanks for the insightful comment! And extra gratitude for the permit tip—finding information on my own turned out to be quite the challenge.

We’ve decided to tweak the dates and the itinerary a bit. The trip will now happen at the end of May to ensure that the mountain lakes have melted from the ice. We’ll be camping overnight, so the weather should be warmer by then.

Removed the following places from the route:

  • Arabel Plateau
  • Southern Inylchek Glacier
  • Merzbacher Lake
  • Chon-Kemin Valley
  • Maiden’s Hair Waterfall

Added to the route:

  • Lake Köl-Tor
  • Konorchek Canyon
  • Toktogul Reservoir
  • Lake Ak-Köl
  • Sary-Moynok Pass

The plan is to leave the car in Karakol Gorge and trek to Ala-Köl Lake, with an overnight stay there, then descend to Altyn Arashan. From this valley, we’ll catch a taxi or hitchhike back to the car in Karakol Gorge.

We’re renting a Toyota RAV4, but I still have concerns about the road conditions to the following locations: Karakol Gorge, Lake Ak-Köl, and the Kegeti Gorge. How rough are these roads? As for the road to Enilchek town, I assume it’s manageable.

Also, how feasible is it to hitch a ride in Altyn Arashan? From what I’ve gathered, most cars that arrive there are already packed with tourists, there’s no cell signal, and the city is pretty far away.


   
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(@lightmax)
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Posted by: @azav

how feasible is it to hitch a ride in Altyn Arashan? From what I’ve gathered, most cars that arrive there are already packed with tourists, there’s no cell signal, and the city is pretty far away.

Hitching a ride in Altyn Arashan is unlikely, but you can ask about a transfer at a guesthouse—someone will definitely offer options. Alternatively, contact Nikolai at +996554 040 488; he’s a local and can arrange something for sure.


   
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 azav
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thanks, this contact will definitely come in handy—we’ll reach out!

I still have questions about road accessibility to Lake Ak-Köl, Kegeti Gorge, Karakol Gorge, and Chon-Kemin (if we make it there) with a Toyota RAV4. Due to harsh road conditions, we had to drop Arabel Plateau from the route.


   
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(@lightmax)
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You’ll definitely be able to drive to Kegeti, Karakol, and Chon-Kemin valleys. As for Lake Ak-Köl—could you clarify which lake you mean? There are several with similar names across the country.

The Chon-Kemin Gorge is quite long, and you don’t need a permit unless you’re heading past the border guards. Look for a military tent near the road; that’s where the checkpoint is. (Otherwise, you’ll face a fine and waste time.)

There are guesthouses in the gorge; Aziz’s place is cozy and budget-friendly (I don’t recall the name, but it’s definitely not Ashuu). Contact him at +996703295919 (WhatsApp works). He also offers horseback rides in the nearby mountains for ~30$ a person. The ride lasts about 4 hours.


   
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 azav
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excellent, thank you!

Ak-Köl is located between Toktogul Reservoir and Lake Son-Kul. On satellite maps, the road isn’t very visible, but it seems accessible by car. The question is whether the RAV4 will make it there.

Ah, right, we’ll need a permit for Chon-Kemin... That’s probably out, then. I was particularly drawn to Lake Zhashyl-Köl, but the rough road makes it unreachable.

We’ll consider the horseback ride option in Altyn Arashan after descending from Ala-Köl Lake. There should also be thermal springs nearby, though I haven’t been able to find the exact coordinates.

One last thing: how is the road around Son-Kul Lake? Google Maps shows something close to an asphalt road, but it looks more like a dirt track.


   
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(@lightmax)
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You can definitely drive to Lake Ak-Köl in the summer (41.683362, 74.280657), but in May, it’ll depend on the weather—most likely, you’ll make it.

Regarding Chon-Kemin: the permit is only needed if you go past the border guards, which is quite far in.

As for Son-Kul, I’ve mentioned before that one of the roads is passable; the others might still be blocked with snow. The “yellow lines” on Google Maps don’t always mean asphalt—in the case of Son-Kul, it’s 100% dirt road. You can drive around the lake on the northern side, where the road is clear and visible. The southern part, however, can be tricky—sometimes you won’t even see the road, so off-road driving experience is key.

In May, expect snow at Son-Kul, but at least one road should be open. A crossover like the RAV4 will suffice, but a proper SUV would be more comfortable.

One thing’s for sure: there’s no asphalt. The roads are dirt, and a crossover will handle it unless the snow hasn’t melted.

On Google Maps, road conditions (asphalt/dirt) often don’t match reality, and sometimes the roads marked simply don’t exist.


   
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 azav
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@lightmax thank you!

For Chon-Kemin, I’m specifically interested in Lake Zhashyl-Köl—there shouldn’t be any border guards there, right?

At Son-Kul, I hope the snow will have melted by late May, so we’ll take the northern route in that case. Smile

One last formal question—are drones weighing under 1 kg allowed into Kyrgyzstan? Online information is conflicting, but judging by amateur YouTube videos, there don’t seem to be any issues.

Here’s the final draft of the plan, day by day:

Day 1: Arrival in Bishkek, car rental -> Burana Tower -> Kegeti Gorge: Kegeti Waterfall, trek to Köl-Tor Lake for acclimatization, overnight stay.
Day 2: Drive to Konorchek Canyon, then a long road to Chon-Kemin and Lake Zhashyl-Köl (if no border guards), overnight stay.
Day 3: Drive to Karakol, aiming to reach Enilchek by evening. Explore the town, visit thermal springs, overnight stay.
Day 4: Drive to Karakol Gorge, leave the car, and trek to Ala-Köl Lake, overnight stay at the lake.
Day 5: Trek from Ala-Köl to Altyn Arashan, then take a taxi/hitchhike back to the car at Karakol Gorge. Continue to Jeti-Ögüz, overnight stay there.
Day 6: Visit Barskoon Waterfall, Sary-Moynok Pass, possibly Petrov Glacier Lake (if accessible), overnight stay in Barskoon.
Day 7: Visit Fairy Tale Canyon, long drive to Son-Kul Lake, overnight stay near the lake.
Day 8: From Son-Kul to Lake Ak-Köl, then on to Toktogul Reservoir, overnight stay in Toktogul.
Day 9: Cross Too-Ashuu Pass en route to Bishkek.
Day 10: Explore Ala-Archa Gorge, return to Bishkek, and stroll around the city.

Naturally, this is approximate since we still have 2.5 days in reserve. But this is the essence of what we hope to see. The Chon-Kemin permit (for Zhashyl-Köl) and the Petrov Glacier Lake remain question marks for now—both are fascinating spots.

If I missed anything interesting along the way, do let me know! Smile


   
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(@lightmax)
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Posted by: @azav

Day 1: Arrival in Bishkek, car rental -> Burana Tower -> Kegeti Gorge: Kegeti Waterfall, trek to Köl-Tor Lake for acclimatization, overnight stay.

Honestly, I think you’re packing in a bit much for Day 1. Chances are you’ll be on an early flight, and by the time you land, rent the car, and make it to Kegeti Gorge, you’ll be exhausted. I’d skip the trek to Kol-Tor for the first day.
Posted by: @azav

Day 2: Drive to Konorchek Canyon, then a long road to Chon-Kemin and Lake Zhashyl-Köl (if no border guards), overnight stay.

The road to Konorchek will take a couple of hours, and people usually hike down and enjoy the scenery. You can also take a car partway, but not to the very end.
Chon-Kemin isn’t far either. Zhashyl-Kol (coordinates: 42.910133, 77.113011) is located at the very end of the gorge. However, you’ll have to ford a river at one point, which can be risky depending on conditions. I wouldn’t try it with a single car. A border permit is definitely required to visit this lake. You can at least drive as far as this point: coordinates 42.899028, 76.965209—there’s no bridge beyond that. Hiking to the lake is still possible.
Alternatively, you could just camp at Konorchek Canyon for the night or head straight to Chon-Kemin after a brief visit to Konorchek. Skipping Konorchek to focus on the lake is also an option.
Posted by: @azav

Day 3: Drive to Karakol, aiming to reach Enilchek by evening. Explore the town, visit thermal springs, overnight stay.

I’d recommend splitting Karakol–Enilchek into a separate day. Your plan is feasible but involves a lot of driving.
If you do take an extra day, you could visit Grigoriev and Semenov Gorges on the north shore of Issyk-Kul and spend the night in Karakol.

Posted by: @azav

Day 4: Drive to Karakol Gorge, leave the car, and trek to Ala-Köl Lake, overnight stay at the lake.
Day 5: Trek from Ala-Köl to Altyn Arashan, then take a taxi/hitchhike back to the car at Karakol Gorge. Continue to Jeti-Ögüz, overnight stay there.

This looks fine, but I’d recommend arranging a transfer from Altyn-Arashan in advance—I wouldn’t rely on finding taxis or hitchhiking there.

The rest of the plan looks okay, but as for the lakes further along—well, it’s all up to luck. Reaching Lake Petrova seems unlikely.

You could swap Day 10 with Day 1. Ala-Archa offers plenty of trekking options, from short hikes to multi-day adventures.

 

 


   
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 azav
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Thanks again!

I agree—I went overboard with the timings. I’ll tweak the schedule and route slightly.
Considering that Zhashyl-Kol requires a border permit, we’ll likely skip the lake and Chon-Kemin, replacing them with Grigoriev and Semenov Gorges instead—those roads are passable, right?
We’ll probably dedicate a full day to Enilchek since the road from Karakol isn’t exactly short (about 3 hours one way, as I understand).
We’ll also book the transfer from Altyn-Arashan in advance—you’re absolutely right. I’ll reach out to the person you mentioned in one of your earlier comments. Smile Lake Petrova is off the list too. Maybe we’ll just stop by the Sary-Moinok Pass for its panoramic views and head back. I know there’s a plateau called Arabel nearby, but due to its remoteness, I won’t add it to the itinerary.

Here’s the rough outline:

Day 1: Morning arrival in Bishkek, car rental, Burana Tower, Kegeti Gorge, Kegeti waterfall, overnight stay.
Day 2: Morning trek to Kol-Tor Lake, descend back, drive to Konorchek Canyon, explore, and camp or stay overnight nearby.
Day 3: Drive along the northern shore of Issyk-Kul, visit Grigoriev and Semenov Gorges, overnight near Karakol.
Day 4: Full day exploring Enilchek, hot springs, overnight stay.
Day 5: Drive to Karakol Gorge, trek to Ala-Kul Lake, overnight at the lake.
Day 6: Descend to Altyn-Arashan, return to the car, drive to Jeti-Oguz, overnight near Barskoon.
Day 7: Visit Barskoon Waterfall, Sary-Moinok Pass, Skazka Canyon, then head toward Song-Kul Lake. Overnight somewhere en route (e.g., Kochkor).
Day 8: Explore Song-Kul along the northern shore, then drive to Ak-Kul Lake and onward to Toktogul Reservoir. Overnight near Kyzyl-Oy.
Day 9: Visit Toktogul Reservoir, then a relaxed drive to Bishkek via the Too-Ashuu Pass. Overnight near Sosnovka.
Day 10: Leisurely drive to Ala-Archa, return to Bishkek.
Day 11: Walk around Bishkek.
Day 12: Free time.

It’s still packed, but without Lake Petrova and Chon-Kemin. If we end up with extra time, we could explore some nearby spots. I noticed some lakes west of Toktogul Reservoir: Kel (41.88655, 72.30299) and Sary-Chelek (41.88827, 71.96088). There don’t seem to be any roads, but the locations look interesting.

Overall, I think this plan captures the most exciting places in the region, aside from the skipped spots (Chon-Kemin and Petrova). If you have any additional suggestions, I’d love to hear them! Smile


   
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(@lightmax)
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The plan still seems a tad ambitious—you’re going to spend a LOT of time in the car, which may or may not be enjoyable depending on your travel style.

Posted by: @azav

Day 5: Drive to Karakol Gorge, trek to Ala-Kul Lake, overnight at the lake.
Day 6: Descend to Altyn-Arashan, return to the car, drive to Jeti-Oguz, overnight near Barskoon.

This two-day trek is going to be very challenging. I’d suggest arranging a second car to drop you off at the bridge in Karakol Gorge—this is where the main trek to Ala-Kul starts. That way, it’s much more doable.
Posted by: @azav

Day 8: Explore Song-Kul along the northern shore, then drive to Ak-Kul Lake and onward to Toktogul Reservoir. Overnight near Kyzyl-Oy.
Day 9: Visit Toktogul Reservoir, then a relaxed drive to Bishkek via the Too-Ashuu Pass. Overnight near Sosnovka.

If you want to see Toktogul, it’s better to take the main road from Kyzyl-Oy. The alternative route through Toluk will take much longer due to gravel roads and countless switchbacks. I wouldn’t recommend driving that far from civilization and cell coverage with just one car.
The downside is that this loop will eat up a minimum of ~6 hours driving, plus the road toward Bishkek. Even in good weather, Toktogul to Bishkek takes around 5 hours without stops.

 


   
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 azav
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this is the flip side of road trips — you can visit countless places, but the ribbon of asphalt stretching endlessly before your eyes ends up taking up a third of the journey. Oh well, what can you do? Smile

I’m planning to spend more time exploring Karakol Gorge. Could you tell me where exactly that bridge in the gorge is located? And up to which point can I drive a crossover there? I’m thinking of leaving my car at the point marked as Ayu-Tor Ryce Camp (42.315309, 78.470850) to ensure it stays safe from any potential damage or vandalism. From there, I plan to set off on foot. Ideally, I want to begin the trek to the lake in the morning, hike at a leisurely pace, reach the lake by evening, and camp overnight.

As for Toktogul, we’ve cut it out of the route because a travel agency just informed us today that we’ll be getting three border passes as a bonus — to Chon-Kemin, Issyk-Kul, and Naryn regions.
Instead of Toktogul, and after Barskoon, we’re planning to head to Lake Kel-Suu (via the mountain road near Bokonbaevo) — 40.640001, 76.401880. Honestly, this feels like the crown jewel of the whole trip. The photos struck me right in the heart, and with the permit in hand, there’s no way I can skip this place. I’m redrafting the route accordingly, though I still have questions about Kel-Suu...

From what I gather, driving directly to Kel-Suu in early June is out of the question. So trekking is the only way forward. I haven’t quite figured out where to start yet — more research needed. Also, is there any chance the lake will still be frozen?

We’re also planning to include Tash Rabat and Chatyr-Kul Lake. Now the challenge is how to close the loop back to Bishkek. With Toktogul, the road via the pass would’ve taken us directly to Bishkek, but now we need to incorporate Ak-Kul and Son-Kul (the northern shore).

To summarize, the revised route so far is as follows:
Barskoon -> Kel-Suu -> Chatyr-Kul -> Tash Rabat -> Son-Kul -> Ak-Kul -> Road to Bishkek (specific details for the last leg still unclear).


   
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(@lightmax)
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In Karakol Gorge, you can drive a standard car up to this point: 42.394476, 78.454128. The coordinates you mentioned are indeed where the bridge to Ala-Kul is located, but getting there in a regular car without damaging it is extremely difficult.

The best option would be to park your car at a guesthouse and hire a transfer using UAZ vehicles from there.

“We plan to go to Lake Kel-Suu (via the mountain road near Bokonbaevo).”

I suspect you’re referring to the Tosor Pass (3,900 meters), and I’ll have to disappoint you for two reasons:

  1. The road is not suitable for a crossover — you’ll need a proper off-roader.
  2. In mid-May, there’s a high risk of the road being impassable due to snow.

There’s no asphalt at all on this route, and the stretch from Bokonbaevo to Tosor to Naryn will take an entire day, from dawn until late evening. Then it’s another 150 km from Naryn to Kel-Suu, also on dirt roads, which will take about 7 hours with stops.

You can drive up to the point: 40.749938, 76.399686, and then it’s trekking only. The month of travel doesn’t change the difficulty — the main challenges are the lack of a bridge across the river and the tough off-road conditions. Vehicles often get stuck in the saz (swampy areas), and even well-prepared off-roaders with winches struggle. I’ve been stuck there myself and had to rescue friends in similar situations.

Regarding the lake itself — it’s unpredictable. Some years, it’s completely dry. In mid-May, bring warm clothes and be prepared for snow, depending on the weather.

For a circular route like Kel-Suu -> Chatyr-Kul -> Tash Rabat, keep in mind that fuel reserves are critical. There are no villages or gas stations in these mountainous areas.


   
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 azav
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I got it — thanks! Could you suggest where exactly in Karakol Gorge this guesthouse is located? Or would it be better to leave the car in Karakol city and hire a UAZ transfer straight from there? If so, where would you recommend parking?

I Googled Tosor Pass but couldn’t quite pinpoint its exact location. I’ve sketched out a route that I thought would shorten the drive. If I’m not mistaken, the pass is to the right of my marked path? Either way, if the road seems too rough, I’d rather take a detour to avoid unnecessary risks.

I read plenty of trip reports about Kel-Suu yesterday, and it seems wiser to drive to the yurt camp and trek the 6-7 km to the lake from there. That distance seems manageable. I’ve seen enough videos of vehicles getting swallowed by swamps, so I’m not taking chances.

One thing I didn’t fully grasp — is there a bridge across the Aksay River? The coordinates I found are 40.893435, 76.361985. The river looks quite full from satellite images, and I won’t risk fording it. Smile

Since the lake is at a high altitude, we’ll definitely bring warm clothing — we’ll need it anyway for overnight stays at Ala-Kul, Enilchek, Son-Kul, and Kel-Suu. If the lake is dry, it’ll still be an experience to witness the “Martian landscape” — I’ve seen photos of the Kok-Kiya Valley, and I can’t wait to see it in person.

About the yurt camp — does it open in late May? And is there any chance of renting a boat there? I read that trekking around the lake isn’t possible, so it seems like a boat ride would offer the best views.

I’ve reviewed reports about Chatyr-Kul and Tash Rabat and decided to drop them from the itinerary. After Kel-Suu, they might feel underwhelming.

So, the second part of the route now looks like this:
Skazka Canyon -> Lake Kel-Suu -> Northern shore of Son-Kul -> Ak-Kul -> Back to Bishkek via Too-Ashuu Pass.
This seems to be the only way back to the capital.

Thanks again for your help!


   
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