Руку is a short information on our recent Pamir Highway trip. The Pamirs are absolutely safe right now, and it’s definitely worth visiting! We rented a car without a driver for $90 a day, which was one of the cheapest options available. There were other options going for $120–150 a day.
Registration is required if you’re staying in Tajikistan for more than 10 business days. My advice? Sort it out in advance to avoid getting fined.
You’ll also need a permit and special permission to visit Zorkul.
This year, guesthouses are charging $15 per person for dinner, an overnight stay, and breakfast. The conditions are really decent, very comfortable. In Zorkul, they even have a pool, sauna, and all the bells and whistles.
The people here are incredibly kind—untainted by tourism and always willing to lend a hand. For us, Pamiris remain the best of the best in all of Central Asia.
Our Pamir adventure was completely spontaneous—we ended up signing up for this journey purely by chance. We met two Dutch travelers in Kyrgyzstan, and over one evening, we decided to team up and head to the Pamirs a week later.
We began by looking for a car. We put up ads on all the forums, saying we were searching for a vehicle and any information about the route and required documents. Someone replied on Facebook and gave us Saidaziz’s contact info, vouching for him as an honest guy with good off-road vehicles.
Well, let’s just say this was partially true. He’s honest and reliable, and he probably does have great off-road vehicles, but the one we got was a nightmare.
Looking back, I laugh at the whole experience—it’s likely one of the most memorable parts of our trip—but the day that wretched car broke down in the middle of the steppe? Not funny at all.
So, if you’re dealing with Saidaziz, make sure to thoroughly discuss what kind of vehicle you need. Beyond that, he’s a true professional who values his reputation. Everyone in the Pamirs knows and respects him. He can sort out documents, lodging, registration, and pretty much any issue in five minutes flat.
As for the car? We had problems nearly every day. The roads are atrocious, and something was always coming loose, breaking, or falling off. Without air conditioning, it was rough—we were driving from Dushanbe to Khorog in 45°C (113°F) heat, and I’m not exaggerating. First, the window wouldn’t roll down. Then the tire went flat. Then a panel came off its bolts. The trunk wouldn’t open, and then there was a fuel leak—followed by a gas leak, possibly due to the altitude or who knows why—and then the car just stalled.
In short, the Toyota Hilux isn’t suited for Pamir roads or weather conditions. Pick something sturdier.
That said, credit where it’s due: Saidaziz agreed to refund part of our money, so he’s trustworthy.
About bribes—there weren’t any. Tourists don’t get asked for money. Locals, however, do give 5 somoni each time (that’s about $0.50), and it’s considered totally normal. They give it willingly, almost like they’re offering it to family.
I’ll definitely write something about the Pamiris someday. These people are truly one of a kind, and we spent a lot of time talking with them—there’s so much to share.
Oh, and about Afghanistan.
We couldn’t cross the border. The bridge that used to connect the two sides, where people would go back and forth to the market, it’s closed now.
The market no longer exists. 🙁 Tajiks aren’t allowed across anymore, and they’re heartbroken because so many have family on the other side.
The only way to reach the Afghans is by hiring a local guide who can take you to a nearby village about 7 kilometers from Tajikistan. We didn’t go.
And yes, we did see Taliban fighters with guns. We didn’t feel any danger, even though we were driving along the border the whole time. Locals assured us that it’s fine to openly take photos of them. Personally, I wasn’t too keen on that idea, so we only snapped a couple of discreet shots without being noticed.