My mom and I had long dreamed of visiting Uzbekistan to explore the ancient cities of Samarkand and Bukhara and immerse ourselves in its vibrant Eastern culture. We decided to make the trip in spring when the weather is warm, and the trees are in full bloom. Our week-long adventure took us to Tashkent, Bukhara, and Samarkand.
For Russian citizens, a valid passport is all you need to enter Uzbekistan—no visa required. However, if you plan to stay longer than 15 days, you must register at your accommodation. Hotels or landlords usually handle the registration process free of charge.
Upon arrival at Tashkent airport, I highly recommend purchasing a local SIM card to use ride-hailing apps immediately. This makes getting around much easier. We had no trouble booking rides in any of the cities we visited. Avoid using the persistent airport taxi drivers as their prices are significantly inflated. For reference, our ride from Tashkent airport to our hotel cost 12,500 Uzbekistani soms (around $1.40).
We flew from Moscow to Tashkent and returned from Samarkand. Since Uzbekistan is a large country, we planned our route carefully to minimize unnecessary travel: Tashkent → Bukhara → Samarkand. This allowed us to catch a direct return flight from Samarkand to Moscow. Two round-trip tickets, including baggage, cost us 52,000 ₽ (approximately $580).
The flight to Tashkent took about four hours, and the return from Samarkand was about the same. To get from Tashkent to Bukhara, we took an overnight train that took approximately eight hours. There’s also the option of the high-speed Afrosiyob train, which cuts the travel time to around four hours. From Bukhara to Samarkand, we took an express train, which was a quick two-hour journey.
It’s best to purchase train tickets in advance, as they can sell out. Ticket sales open 45 days before departure. If you can pay with a non-Russian-issued card, I recommend booking through the local rail service, Uz Railway.
We paid 3,400 ₽ (around $38) for two sleeper tickets from Tashkent to Bukhara and 2,300 ₽ (around $26) for two express tickets from Bukhara to Samarkand. Tickets are issued under the passenger's passport, and it’s a good idea to carry a printed copy with you.
The trains in Uzbekistan are comfortable, clean, and convenient. One thing to note: train stations in cities like Tashkent and Bukhara don’t have the typical electronic schedule boards we’re used to. It’s a good idea to confirm your platform in advance with station staff to avoid confusion.
Tashkent welcomed us with pleasant weather and blooming spring. We spent three days in the city, known for its wide avenues, spacious streets, and parks. The city doesn’t have a clearly defined center but features several central districts: Mirabad, Mirzo Ulugbek, Yunusabad, and Yakkasaray. It’s best to stay in one of these areas, as they have well-developed infrastructure and are close to major attractions.
We stayed in the Mirabad district, on Shakhrisabz Street, near the Aybek metro station. We loved this quiet, green neighborhood, filled with small shops, cafes, and restaurants. Renting an apartment for three days cost us 167 USD. Renting apartments in Tashkent is more affordable than staying in three-star hotels.
In Tashkent, besides taxis, we used buses and the metro for getting around. A bus ride costs 1,400 sums, which is about 0.11 USD. The buses are modern and comfortable. The metro in Tashkent is particularly beautiful, with four lines and 43 stations, many of which are decorated in a national style. The trains are clean and comfortable. Riding the metro is worth it, even just to admire the architecture of the local underground system. A ride costs 2,000 sums (around 0.17 USD).
The Mirabad neighborhood, where we stayed, has plenty of cafes and restaurants serving traditional Uzbek cuisine, as well as Lebanese, Turkish, and Greek food. To try national dishes, we went to the Anor restaurant, recommended by our apartment host. The restaurant offers a large and diverse menu, with highlights such as kebabs, lagman, manty, and samsa. Inside, there are two open kitchens where you can watch noodles and bread being prepared.
We ordered two portions of lagman, a salad, and apple juice. Dinner for two cost 180,000 sums (approximately 15.50 USD). The restaurant was popular with locals, the staff were friendly and polite, and the service was quick. The portions were generous and very filling.
For a quick bite or takeaway, we recommend Bellisimo Pizza, also in the same area. The menu includes various pizzas, chicken strips, and delicious cinnamon rolls with a sugary topping. Lunch for two, including pizza, fries, and lemonade, cost 84,000 sums (around 7.25 USD).
A true cultural and culinary treasure of Uzbekistan is Uzbek pilaf, which we recommend trying at the Besh Qozon Central Asian Pilaf Center. This atmospheric venue is divided into two areas: a restaurant hall where you can sit at a table and be served by a waiter, and another hall where different types of pilaf are cooked in enormous cauldrons over wood fires, alongside traditional Uzbek bread.
You can choose from three types of pilaf: chaihan-style, wedding-style, and a special variety. The pilaf is prepared in five open cauldrons, with portions stirred using a shovel. The largest cauldron cooks two tons of pilaf, while smaller ones hold about 700 kilograms. The cooking and serving process is truly a spectacle.
We ordered one portion of beef pilaf for two, traditional bread, and achichuk (a salad made of thinly sliced tomatoes and onions). Additionally, we tried dolma and quail eggs. Tea is served free of charge.
Many locals prefer to skip the restaurant service and pay for pilaf at the counter, where lines form for each cauldron. Lunch for two cost 69,000 sums (around 5.95 USD). Avoid visiting during the transition period when one batch of pilaf is finished, and a new one is being prepared. This can result in up to an hour of waiting. It’s best to visit in the morning or early afternoon when it’s less crowded.
The capital of Uzbekistan, Tashkent, is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. Once, the Great Silk Road passed through it. However, many ancient monuments were destroyed during the powerful earthquake of 1966, leaving only a few old mosques and madrasas. Most of the city was rebuilt from scratch.
On the second day, we took a city tour. Tickets cost 200,000 UZS (about $22). The route includes two stops: the Hazrati Imam Complex and the Shahidlar Hotirasi Memorial Complex on the banks of the Bozsu Canal. The tour covers the city's main attractions, memorials, mosques, modern complexes, and districts, along with stories about Tashkent's history.
The Hazrati Imam (Hast-Imam) Ensemble is a religious center. Here, the Muyi Muborak Madrasa houses the Quran of Caliph Uthman. This ancient original was written on deerskin in the 7th century. Amir Timur brought it to Uzbekistan from Iraq in the 15th century. Only four copies of the Quran remain in the world, and the Tashkent manuscript is the best-preserved. Entry to the museum costs 25,000 UZS (around $2.80).
The Hast-Imam Square also features the ancient Barakhan Madrasa, an architectural monument listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the 16th century, it was a center for teaching mullas, Quranic studies, Arabic, mathematics, and the basics of medicine. Today, the courtyard is filled with souvenir shops where you can enjoy coffee. A latte costs 20,000 UZS (approximately $2.20).
The Hazrati Imam Mosque, a modern building, was constructed in 2007 in the style of ancient architecture. In its spacious square, adults and children fly colorful kites — an ancient tradition and popular pastime in Uzbekistan. It’s believed that kites first arrived in Uzbekistan from China along the Silk Road. Boys often make their kites using paper and wooden sticks. Dozens of kites soaring above the turquoise domes, vibrant minarets, and madrasas evoke reflections on fleeting life and eternal values, reminiscent of scenes from Khaled Hosseini's novel The Kite Runner.
The Museum of Applied Arts of Uzbekistan is housed in a beautiful Eastern-style palace built by Alexander Polovtsov Jr., a Russian diplomat, ethnographer, and orientalist of the late 19th century. Its rich collection includes carpets, embroidered suzani, national attire, metalwork, jewelry, musical instruments, furniture, and dishes from the 18th–19th centuries. The museum also showcases jewelry pieces and porcelain from the mid-20th century. Though small, it’s an enjoyable visit. A free guide is available through a QR code at the entrance. Entry costs 25,000 UZS (about $2.80).
The conqueror Tamerlane (Timur) is a key historical figure in Uzbekistan. A large, beautiful square is named after him, featuring a monument in his honor. The square was developed in the late 1990s. During the Russian Empire, it housed a monument to Konstantin Kaufman, a Russian military figure, which was removed after the 1917 Revolution. In the 1940s, a statue of Stalin was installed but later dismantled. Subsequent monuments reflected communist themes. Opposite the square are the iconic clock towers. The clocks chime melodiously every 15 minutes in memory of Uzbek soldiers who died in World War II.
Bukhara is another ancient Asian city, once the capital of the Bukhara Khanate and the Timurid Empire. We stayed at the Oasis Boutique Hotel, centrally located in the Old City at Suzan-Garon Street, 37. All major landmarks are within walking distance.
The hotel is small, with a charming inner courtyard perfect for relaxing with a cup of coffee. At the entrance, the hotel retains its 19th-century carved wooden doors and shutters. The spacious rooms are decorated in a classic style with soft light tones. The large bathroom features traditional tilework. The room includes air conditioning, a kettle, complimentary water, tea, and coffee. Breakfasts are varied, offering porridge, cottage cheese, fruits, vegetables, samosas, baklava, pancakes, juices, coffee, and tea. Hot dishes include scrambled eggs with sausages. A standout was the pumpkin samosa.
The cost for two nights was around $81. A minor inconvenience was the 2:00 PM check-in policy. Since we arrived at 8:00 AM, we had to explore the city until our room was ready, but the hotel allowed us to store our luggage.
If you arrive in Bukhara early in the morning, the only restaurant in the Old City open for breakfast is Labi Hovuz, which starts service at 8:00 AM. While the setting by an ancient artificial pond with 400-year-old trees is a plus, the breakfast was cold, unappetizing, and expensive. Coffee was unavailable, and service was slow, with cleaning ongoing during our visit. This place is not recommended.
For authentic Uzbek and Bukhara cuisine, we highly recommend JOY Chaikhana & Lounge, located in a historical 19th-century caravanserai. The cozy restaurant features multi-level seating around an inner courtyard. It’s popular, so reservations are advisable, especially after 8:00 PM when seating is scarce.
Standout dishes include bichak (small pastries with pumpkin, meat, or spinach), khanum (steamed dough rolls filled with minced meat and vegetables), and a large plate of fresh vegetables. Drinks like the semi-sweet homemade rose wine and the Uzbek light beer Sarbast (a classic lager) were delightful. Dinner for two cost 278,000 UZS (around $30). A downside: smoking is allowed in the restaurant.
Like Tashkent, Bukhara was one of the key stops on the Great Silk Road. Merchants from Bukhara transported goods from Persia, India, and China. The city’s history spans over 2,500 years, and it retains cultural monuments dating back to the 9th century. Over the centuries, Bukhara came under the influence of various empires: the Turkic Khaganate of the 6th–7th centuries, the Arab Caliphate in the 8th century, the Samanid state in the 9th–10th centuries, the Mongol Empire in the 13th–14th centuries, and the Timurid state in the 14th–15th centuries.
The massive Ark Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, spans 4 hectares. It was the former residence of rulers and housed a palace, chancery, and coronation hall. Its 20-meter walls and massive conical towers resemble an alien structure from a sci-fi film. The first structures of the Ark appeared in the 4th century BCE, but the surviving parts date back to the 17th–19th centuries. The western section of the citadel is now open to visitors, offering a beautiful view of the Shukhov Tower and the old city. Entrance costs $1.1 (10,000 soms).
A stunning architectural ensemble from the 12th–13th centuries is located in the central Registan Square. It’s best to visit at sunset when the colorful mosaics of the madrassas and the mosque domes gleam gold in the soft sunlight. The Kalyan Minaret is the tallest structure in Bukhara, while the Kalyan Mosque, a religious landmark, can accommodate 12,000 people. Its courtyard features covered galleries with 288 domes.
The Lyabi-Hauz ensemble includes the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrassa and Khanaka Divan-Begi, structures from the 16th–17th centuries adorned with intricate mosaics. The khanaka hosted dervishes, wandering Sufi members, and Muslim missionaries. A monument to Hodja Nasreddin—a legendary folklore figure known for his humorous stories—is set in a park nearby. Adjacent is a shop selling Eastern sweets and souvenirs, including Bukhara sherbet with cinnamon and salted dried apricot seeds.
The ancient Magoki-Attari Mosque, with its intricate brickwork, left the most vivid impression on me. Built in the 12th century on a Zoroastrian burial site, it exudes a reverence for its aesthetic simplicity and resilience, having survived numerous invasions and empires. It now houses the Carpet Museum.
Two stunning, symmetrical madrassas stand out—Ulugh Beg Madrassa and Abdullaziz-Khan Madrassa. The Ulugh Beg Madrassa, constructed in the early 15th century by Timur's grandson Ulugh Beg, features Arabic inscriptions and colorful mosaics. It was a progressive educational institution, teaching philosophy, natural sciences, and theology. Its entrance bore the inscription: “The pursuit of knowledge is the duty of every Muslim man and woman.” Opposite lies the Abdullaziz-Khan Madrassa, built in the mid-17th century, known for its eclectic, richly gilded wall patterns.
While wandering through the Old City’s narrow, untouristed alleys, we stumbled upon an old synagogue, open to visitors. Nearby is a museum housed in a 17th–18th-century Bukharan Jewish home. Bukharan Jews, a significant ethnic group, settled in this region as early as the 1st century CE, often migrating from Iran to escape religious persecution. The Old City also has a unique private Museum of the National Puppet Theater and a puppet workshop. The museum's founder, Iskandar Hakimov, creates custom-made papier-mâché dolls and offers insights into the history of the Uzbek puppet theater. He even gave us a free mini-tour.
We had only one full day in Samarkand and stayed at the small Muqaddas Hotel on Kulolon Street, 8, near Registan Square. The hotel is new and had just opened. Although the electricity was out when we arrived in the evening, the hosts quickly turned on a generator, ensuring we faced no inconvenience. Everything was functional the next day. Breakfast was modest, with limited fruits and vegetables, omelets, pancakes, Eastern sweets, and instant coffee. For a one-night stay, it’s quite suitable. For longer stays, I’d recommend choosing a different hotel. A pleasant bonus: the owner gave us a free ride to the airport early on our departure morning. The cost for two nights was $100 (9,000 rubles).
Most historical monuments in Samarkand that survive today were built in the 14th century during Timur’s reign. Founded in the mid-8th century BCE, Samarkand blends cultures and epochs. Unlike Bukhara, it lacks a defined historical center. Ancient mosques, madrassas, mansions, Soviet-era apartment blocks, and private houses all intermingle throughout the city.
At Registan Square stands Samarkand’s most iconic architectural ensemble, comprising three madrassas from the 15th–17th centuries: Tillya-Kari, Sher-Dor, and Ulugh Beg. These structures are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The Ulugh Beg Madrassa was a major scientific and educational hub of its time in Central Asia. The walls of the Sher-Dor Madrassa are adorned with Quranic verses, gilded mosaics, and the snow leopard symbol of Samarkand above its entrance.
Built in the mid-17th century, the Tillya-Kari Madrassa boasts gold-encrusted decorations on its walls and entrance. The strict proportions, symmetry, and brightly adorned portals and domes create a sense of grandeur and solemnity, particularly when you’re standing in the square. Every evening at 8:00 PM, a laser light show accompanied by music illuminates the square, making the buildings even more enchanting. Entrance to the complex costs $4 (40,000 soms).
A unique museum in Samarkand is the Mirzo Ulugh Beg Observatory. Ulugh Beg, the grandson of Tamerlane, encouraged the development of science and art after becoming a ruler. He studied astronomy himself and began constructing the observatory in 1419. Today, the museum features a model of the observatory, which has not survived, but a massive sextant with a radius of 40 meters remains intact. Using this instrument, Ulugh Beg and other scientists identified the positions of about 1,000 stars. In 1437, Ulugh Beg determined the length of the stellar year with remarkable accuracy — 365 days, 6 hours, 10 minutes, and 8 seconds, differing from the modern value by only 58 seconds. Entrance to the museum costs approximately $2.20 (20,000 UZS).
A stunning example of Islamic architecture is the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum. This is the burial place of Tamerlane and his relatives. Originally, the mausoleum was built for Tamerlane’s beloved grandson, Muhammad Sultan, who passed away in 1403. Later, Tamerlane himself was also buried there. According to legend, the spirit of Tamerlane, the spirit of war, was unleashed by Soviet archaeologists in June 1941 when they opened the tomb. This was due to flooding in the mausoleum caused by nearby hotel construction, and the legend suggests that this event coincided with the start of World War II.
A vital part of Eastern culture is its bazaars and markets. We visited the Siab Bazaar in Samarkand, one of Asia's oldest markets, mentioned in historical documents as far back as the 8th century. Here, you can buy fruits, vegetables, groceries, meat, household goods, and the famous Samarkand bread. According to local lore, authentic Samarkand bread remains edible for up to three years. We purchased a large sesame-topped loaf, a black sesame loaf, and an onion loaf. The onion bread never made it home; we ate it on the way back from the bazaar because it was so delicious.
In Samarkand, we asked locals where we could find tasty and affordable food that they themselves enjoy. They recommended a café called Historic. This is a family-run eatery with no tourist-oriented décor or atmosphere. Everything is simple and functional. Meals are prepared, and kettles are heated on an old Soviet stove at the entrance to the dining area. The menu includes shurpa, lagman, salads, kebabs, samsa, and manty. This is a completely untouristy café where many locals dine. A meal for two, including manty, a vegetable salad, and tea, cost approximately $8.90 (80,000 UZS).
Our short trip to Uzbekistan brought my mother and me a sea of positive emotions and vibrant impressions. We experienced beautiful culture, felt the spirit of ancient civilization, and enjoyed an Eastern fairy tale.
The people in the country are friendly and welcoming. Many speak Russian well. The total cost of our trip, including airfare, accommodation, meals, museum visits, and souvenirs, was about $1,367 (123,000 RUB).
We highly recommend traveling independently in Uzbekistan. You will fully immerse yourself in a different culture, experience the lives of locals firsthand, and discover much that is new, amazing, and extraordinary. The key to any successful independent trip is thorough planning and preparation. We wish everyone happy travels!
