I had always dreamed of visiting Samarkand, and when the opportunity arose, I didn't hesitate to join a tour. Now, I’d like to share my impressions: what surprises, delights, and possibly disappoints in Uzbekistan.
What’s unique about this trip is that I didn’t prepare for it at all—didn’t research, didn’t pick out any attractions. I was unexpectedly invited to join a mini-group tour that was already planned.
Day 1: Tashkent
We flew with Uzbekistan Airways. The plane was spacious but old, and the food kept coming—nuts, salads, appetizers, and hot dishes, enough to feed an army.
After just four hours of sleep, I began my exploration of Tashkent. My feelings about the city were mixed: it's a large, busy place, and at first glance, it seemed dirty and chaotic. But the day truly came alive thanks to our guide, who even received a presidential award for his expertise. He guided us through the city with a deep knowledge, offering fascinating anecdotes from Uzbek life along the way.
Tashkent is divided into two parts: the western side is more religious and clan-based, with no foreigners or alcohol, and families typically have three or more children. The eastern part is more secular, with many bars, and families usually have two children.
Our first stop was the Hazrat Imam Complex, a central mosque that can hold 5,000 people. The columns at the entrance are made of sandalwood, which only grows in India, and exporting it is punishable by death. However, in recognition of Uzbekistan’s importance as a center of Islamic civilization, they allowed it to be imported as a gift.
My favorite fact: When performing the prayers, worshipers place their feet 20 cm apart to allow a cat to pass by—cats are the only animals allowed in the mosque.
We saw the world’s oldest Quran, dating back 1,400 years. The text has survived due to the leather pages and ink that’s been embedded in them like a tattoo. The most luxurious Quran is housed in the library, its cover made from mother-of-pearl and elephant tusks.
After a walk through the nondescript alleys of the old town, we headed to the bazaar. My personal hell! There was so much of everything—meat, dried fruits, nuts, spices, vegetables, fruits, flatbreads, national clothing, and all kinds of trinkets. It was certainly colorful, but the trash, the crowds, and the constant pressure from vendors saying “Try it, buy it” were overwhelming. The climax of the bazaar experience was the food section, where sheep’s heads were laid out, and the mingling smells of fried offal and dough filled the air.
What truly impressed me, though, was the Plov Center. I had never seen anything like it before: huge cauldrons, 13 types of plov, and it was absolutely delicious. One of the cauldrons could hold up to 1.5 tons of plov!
We ended the day with a visit to the Catholic Cathedral of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. It was a peaceful and serene place—a balm for the soul after the intensity of the day.
The next morning, we boarded a high-speed train to Bukhara.
Day 2: Bukhara
Bukhara was a study in contrasts: on the outskirts, it was uninspiring and bustling, but the old city, with its buildings dating back to the 10th-12th centuries, was stunning.
We visited all the major mosques and madrassas (educational institutions), each adorned with intricate frescoes and stone patterns. Our guide offered countless historical facts. To be honest, it was a bit overwhelming—my brain felt like it had exploded with information, but I couldn’t retain much. The guide had a strong religious focus, speaking in a slow, almost hypnotic tone, and covering a lot of ground.
It wasn’t until the evening, after the tour had ended, that I could truly appreciate the city. I had a chance to revisit the main mosque at sunset, admire the madrassas with their stalactite-styled decorations, and take a leisurely stroll through the old city, peeking into shops. To sum it up, it was all very vibrant and colorful!
I’ve become less interested in souvenirs lately, but I do enjoy buying something meaningful from local artisans who can tell you the story behind their creations. In one shop, I bought a set of hand-painted bowls made by a local craftsman, using natural plant-based paints. I also treated myself to a bright silk jacket in traditional Uzbek style—a souvenir that will forever remind me of my time there.
After all the plov, I couldn’t eat any more, so for dinner, we had samsa—thin, flaky pastries—and tambula, a Bukhara salad made of finely chopped vegetables.
The next morning, it was off to Samarkand on the high-speed train!
Day 3: Samarkand
Samarkand won me over completely! If I had to choose one place to visit, it would definitely be here. The city is clean, beautiful, and the overall atmosphere is so different from the other cities. It’s comfortable and easy-going; you’ll want to linger longer, wander its streets and parks—something I didn’t get to do enough of.
Samarkand is famous for its pure air and water. In the past, they used to leave lamb meat outside for days, and it would not spoil. Just six meters below the surface, there are fresh springs, which is why building a subway system here is forbidden.
Our guide was a young historian, who spoke energetically and succinctly. Though our high-speed train had a one-hour delay, we managed to visit three locations by evening, factoring in time for breakfast, lunch, and a flight later that night.
The Registan Square—this is why I came to Samarkand. Truly monumental! The grandeur of the buildings reminded me of Roman architecture, which I’ve always found fascinating for its scale and power.
While at the square, we also visited a mini-museum dedicated to tubeteikas (traditional headwear), national costumes, and painted ceramics. The owner explained how to "read" the headgear, revealing how a woman’s attire could tell you everything about her: her age, birth order, whether she’s married, and even if her parents are alive. He also showed how every pattern on the ceramics is rich with symbolism, revolving around themes of faith, family, and love.
All in all, this was a physically and emotionally challenging journey. Uzbekistan might not be my place, but I wholeheartedly recommend visiting Samarkand!
By the way, Samarkand's airport is brand new, incredibly modern, and fully digital.