Ancient City of Armazi

Armazi is an ancient city that once thrived on the banks of the Kura River, directly across from Mtskheta. For a long time, this historical site remained forgotten, overgrown and neglected, barely drawing attention from locals or tourists alike. Even many Georgians, passing by these weathered remnants, failed to recognize the traces of their ancient civilization.

It wasn’t until 2012 that restoration work began, breathing new life into Armazi. Since then, the site has gradually attracted more and more visitors. Following the discovery of valuable artifacts during the reconstruction, the Armazi ruins were officially integrated into the Archaeological Museum-Reserve Complex of Greater Mtskheta.

Today, the area of the ancient city is unfenced and accessible without charge or fixed hours — offering curious travelers an open invitation to step into the depths of Georgia’s past.

The name Armazi is derived from the supreme pagan deity once worshipped by the people of this region. The city was founded in honor of this god and likely included a temple located atop Mount Bagineti, while the main settlement spread out below, in the gentler slopes of the valley.

According to ancient chronicles, Armazi was established in the 3rd century BCE. Its strategic location was no accident — nestled in the Darial Gorge, the city sat astride a major artery of the Greater Caucasus, serving as a vital stronghold and cultural hub. Even after Mtskheta was declared the capital of the Kingdom of Iberia, Armazi retained its religious prominence as a sacred center.

In 65 BCE, the city fell to the Roman general Pompey. This alliance with the Roman Empire ushered in an era of cultural prosperity and literacy, marking the golden age of Armazi. But its fortune began to wane toward the end of the 5th century, when Tbilisi was named the new capital of Georgia. The shift led to Armazi’s gradual decline, culminating in its destruction by Arab invaders in 736 CE. In the same wave of invasions, other prominent cities like Urbnisi, Archaeopolis, and Mtskheta itself also suffered heavily.

Unlike some of its counterparts, Armazi was never rebuilt. From the post-invasion era, only fragments remain — among them, the weathered ruins of the Monastery of Saint Nino. The first archaeological excavations took place here in 1890, but systematic work by professional archaeologists only began in earnest between 1943 and 1948.

Excavations at Armazi have revealed several distinct cultural layers, each representing different eras of settlement:

• Armazi I: The earliest layer, dating back to the 3rd–4th centuries BCE.

• Armazi II: The middle period, from the 3rd to 1st centuries BCE.

• Armazi III: The later period, spanning the 1st to 6th centuries CE.

Among the most significant discoveries are the foundations of both pagan and Christian temples. Near the entrance, visitors can view the remains of an ancient sarcophagus — its original ornaments are now on display at the Georgian National Museum. These relics are attributed to the Armazi III period. Just behind the sarcophagus lies a scenic viewpoint that offers panoramic vistas of Mtskheta.

Following the designated path, visitors encounter the ruins of ancient baths — intricate constructions featuring underground pipes and a surprisingly sophisticated water distribution system. Nearby stands the base of a pagan temple, distinguished by its inner niches. Despite its pagan roots, the layout of this temple is strikingly similar to early Georgian tetraconch churches of the 6th century, such as the Ninotsminda Cathedral.

Adjacent to the temple are the remains of an ancient wine cellar, complete with kvevri — large earthenware vessels used for fermenting and storing wine. Though the exact date of its construction remains uncertain, scholars believe it predates the 8th century.

Another point of interest is the Six-Columned Hall — possibly once a palace or an arsenal — where partial walls and column bases still stand. This structure belongs to the earliest period, Armazi I. On Mount Bagineti once stood the middle-period Armazi Temple, but little remains today beyond a weathered stone cross and a few crumbling steps.

The high level of cultural development in Armazi is further evidenced by inscriptions found on-site, written in Aramaic — known specifically in this context as the Armazi script. These inscriptions include epitaphs dedicated to Seraphita, the daughter of King Pharsman. For linguists and historians, these writings are of immense value, illustrating the historical links between the Georgian alphabet and the languages of Eastern civilizations.

Reaching the Armazi ruins requires a combination of driving and walking. There is no public transport to the site, and tours are arranged only upon request. To visit, set out in the direction of Mtskheta. Since even some locals are unfamiliar with the route, it’s advisable to use GPS coordinates: 41.83708, 44.721707.

From Tbilisi, follow the Aghmashenebeli Highway alongside the Kura River toward the confluence of three rivers. The journey will be easier for those who have previously visited the Jvari Monastery, as it lies just across the river. Look out for landmarks such as the “Salobie” restaurant and the Karsani railway station. Shortly after passing the restaurant, a barrier and a sign marked “Archaeological Zone” will appear on your left. From here, a footpath leads directly to the ruins — another good moment to rely on GPS to stay on track.

By car, the drive from Tbilisi takes approximately 25 to 40 minutes, followed by a brief walk through a serene, history-laden landscape that feels far removed from the rush of the modern world.