Bebristsikhe Fortress

Bebristsikhe Fortress (Georgian: ბებრისციხე — “Fortress of the Elder”), sometimes referred to as Beltistsikhe or Natsikhari, is a ruined ancient stronghold located in Georgia. Dating back to approximately the 9th century, this historic fortification is currently under the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Culture and Monument Protection of Georgia. Strategically positioned between the Aragvi River and rugged mountain cliffs, the fortress once served as a vital northern defensive outpost, guarding the only northern approach to the city from raids by highland tribes.

The fortress is perched atop a hill that commands stunning panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes: a park at the foot of the elevation, the winding river below, the surrounding mountains, various districts of Mtskheta—both its historic heart and newer neighborhoods—and even the iconic Jvari Monastery crowning a distant ridge.

According to archaeologists, Bebristsikhe was constructed in the 9th century AD—some four centuries after Mtskheta ceased to serve as the capital of the ancient Georgian kingdom. Recent excavations have revealed that the site was home to even older stone structures, possibly dating back to the 1st century BC. Among the ruins, archaeologists also unearthed ancient artifacts, further deepening the site’s historical significance.

One of the most notable episodes linked to the fortress is the mysterious and sudden death of King Demetre I of Georgia from the Bagrationi dynasty in the year 1156. His reign lasted merely a year, and his passing remains unexplained to this day, cloaked in the mists of legend and speculation.

The name “Bebristsikhe” translates as “Fortress of the Elder,” and originates from a once-popular but now nearly forgotten legend surrounding Prince Simon, the original builder of the stronghold. The story tells of Simon’s children—his son Mamuka and daughter Makrine.

Upon Simon’s death, power passed to his son Mamuka, whose rule quickly turned oppressive. He inflicted hardship upon his subjects, levied heavy taxes, and treated them with cruelty. Heartbroken by her brother’s transformation, Makrine pleaded with him to soften his rule and act with compassion. But her words fell on deaf ears. Angered, Mamuka imprisoned his sister in one of the fortress’s towers.

His tyranny only deepened. One day, while assaulting his subjects with a whip, dark serpents coiled themselves around his legs, immobilizing him. From her tower, Makrine witnessed the horrifying scene and raised her hands to the heavens, imploring God to spare her brother. Her prayer was answered. Mamuka, shaken and terrified, was released from the serpents’ grip. Struck by remorse, he renounced his sins, distributed his wealth among the people, and departed to live as a wandering penitent. Makrine, on the other hand, took monastic vows and remained in Mtskheta.

Seventy years passed. Upon Makrine’s death, an old man appeared at her funeral. He leaned over her lifeless body, pressed his lips to her forehead, and whispered, “My sister, I have fulfilled my vow.” With those words, the old man died beside her. It was then the townspeople understood that the elder was none other than Mamuka. From that time forward, the place became known as Bebristsikhe—“Fortress of the Elder.”

Today, Bebristsikhe Fortress comprises a citadel and a lower courtyard. It is situated on a flat hilltop area of roughly 1,500 square meters, nestled on a craggy, grass-covered cliff. From above, the layout resembles a triangle, with towers positioned at each of its points.

Only the ruins remain today—fragments of ancient walls and partially collapsed towers. Of the three surviving towers, the southwestern one is the best preserved, retaining three full floors. The northern tower is in poorer condition, with only its foundation left intact.

The fortress, burdened by the weight of centuries, has suffered increasingly from natural decay. In 2010, a landslide completely destroyed its northeastern wall. Other parts of the structure were also severely damaged and are currently under gradual restoration. As of 2019, conservation work is ongoing, and visitors may be restricted from entering the interior. Still, the fortress is easily visible from the nearby road, making the uphill climb unnecessary for those who prefer to admire it from afar.

The semi-ruined Beltistsikhe Fortress lies just north of central Mtskheta, about 1.5 kilometers from the confluence of the Aragvi and Kura Rivers. The site is accessible on foot from Mtskheta’s center in 20–25 minutes by heading north along the road toward Narekvavi. Visitors from Tbilisi can reach the site by car, train, or minibus.

By Train
Commuter trains run from Tbilisi’s main railway station to Mtskheta. From the station, it’s approximately 3.3 kilometers to Bebristsikhe, a distance that can be covered in a 5-minute drive or a 40-minute walk—offering ample opportunity to explore other city landmarks along the way.

By Minibus (Marshrutka)
Minibuses from Tbilisi pass near the fortress and depart every 15 minutes from the Didube metro station. The ride to Mtskheta costs around 1.5 GEL (exact fares should be confirmed on site). Travel time is approximately 25 to 30 minutes.