The Fortress of Batonis Tsikhe

At the very core of radiant Telavi lies its beating heart — the legendary fortress known as Batonis Tsikhe, a crown jewel of Georgian architecture. Erected in the 17th century, this formidable stronghold once served as the royal residence of the kings of Kakheti. The very name “Batonis Tsikhe” carries the echo of its noble past, translating from Old Georgian as “the fortress of the lord.”

Historians believe the construction of the fortress unfolded in two distinct phases: the first between 1667 and 1675, and the second during the latter half of the 18th century. In earlier times, the open space south of the fortress walls was the site of athletic competitions and festivals. Today, it is the city’s central square, graced by a park named in honor of King Erekle II, one of Georgia’s most revered monarchs.

For many years, the fortress stood in a state of disrepair, a ghost of its former grandeur. However, a recent meticulous restoration has breathed new life into the ancient citadel. Today, Batonis Tsikhe houses an ethnographic museum and an art gallery that showcases masterpieces by Georgian, Italian, Russian, and Dutch artists — a fusion of the region’s cultural connections.

The historical complex is comprised of the massive fortress walls, several palace buildings, two small churches, and the remnants of an ancient bathhouse. The enclosing wall, crafted from rough limestone, towers over five meters high, offering both majesty and might. Designed as a defensive barrier, its linear form is punctuated by watchtowers and flanked by two main gates — eastern and western — which emphasize the military significance of the site.

One of the two churches within the fortress is a modest 17th-century monastery founded by King Archil. Built in classic Georgian style, this church is the oldest structure within the complex. The second church, constructed later in 1758 by King Erekle II, the fortress’s most illustrious resident, still stands in remarkably good condition. Built of red brick in a single-nave design, it bears witness to the king’s vision and legacy. Beyond the fortress walls stands a striking equestrian statue of Erekle II — a tribute to the man who devoted his life to Kakheti’s defense and prosperity.

Also hidden within the fortress are the weathered remains of a traditional bathhouse, designed according to the architectural patterns of the late feudal era. While only fragments of the structure have survived — including a stone pool, an underfloor furnace, and several ancillary rooms — they offer a fascinating glimpse into the intimate rituals of centuries past.

One particularly captivating feature of the complex is the underground tunnel believed to have served as a secret escape route during sieges. Though currently closed to the public, plans are underway to open this enigmatic passageway for visitors in the future, promising a thrilling new dimension to the fortress experience.

Inside the palace buildings, museum exhibitions now bring history to life. The reconstructed interior of King Erekle II’s residence allows visitors to step into the world of royalty. Here, the monarch’s throne and ceremonial sword — potent symbols of authority — are displayed with reverence. Other exhibits include a treasure trove of 18th-century Georgian household items, an exceptional numismatic collection, and rare manuscripts that preserve the memory of a bygone era.

In another wing of the palace, a contemporary art gallery provides a bridge between past and present, featuring modern works that echo the creative spirit of Georgia.

Perhaps the most emotionally resonant part of the complex is the reimagined home where Erekle II was born and raised. This humble space tells the poignant story of a king — a national hero — who returned to Telavi after his defeat at the Battle of Krtsanisi, spending his final days where his journey began.

Just east of the fortress stands the monument to Erekle II, sculpted by Merab Merabishvili and designed by architect Teimuraz Kandelaaki. With a hand raised in welcome, the king’s bronze figure seems to greet every traveler entering the city. Beside the statue, a scenic overlook offers sweeping views of Telavi and, on clear days, the breathtaking Alazani Valley stretching into the horizon.

Address: 1 Irakli II Street, Telavi
GPS Coordinates: 41.918877, 45.474086
Opening Hours: Tuesday to Sunday: 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM
Closed on Mondays