Telavi

Telavi is a town of modest size by Georgian standards, home to around 20,000 people. Yet its significance far exceeds its scale. As the capital of the Kakheti region, Telavi lies gracefully on the northern slopes of the Tsiv-Gombori mountain range, nestled between the Alazani and Iori river valleys, in one of Georgia’s most breathtakingly scenic landscapes. Despite Kakheti’s turbulent past—marked by centuries of devastating invasions—the people of this land, the Kakhetians, have preserved their innate warmth, soulful generosity, and unmatched hospitality.

The town’s roots reach deep into antiquity. Telavi has been known since the 1st century BCE, with a continuous history spanning three millennia. In ancient times, it was a key trading hub along the caravan routes that connected the Middle East to Europe. Following the destruction and decline of Gremi in the 16th century, Telavi rose to become the capital of the Kakhetian principality. A century later, Georgia united with Kakheti, and in 1801, the Kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti was absorbed into the Russian Empire. Today, Telavi serves as the gateway to Georgia’s celebrated wine and culinary tours, for Kakheti is both the cradle of Georgian winemaking and the beating heart of the nation’s legendary hospitality.

In Kakheti, the art of receiving guests has long been practiced with the elegance of a craft. With the growth of tourism, the Kakhetians have transformed this tradition into a livelihood. Still, even the most popular and widely marketed tours that include the traditional Georgian feast—or supra—remain, first and foremost, sacred rituals. These gatherings are not mere performances but heartfelt expressions of respect: for the wine, the food, the land, and the honored guest. Only secondarily are they commercial ventures.

Although Telavi is a small town, it exudes charm and refinement, offering a well-kept, comfortable atmosphere. When Georgians speak of Telavi, their thoughts naturally turn to wine. The local wines—Kindzmarauli, Saperavi, and Akhasheni, all produced in the surrounding vineyards—are internationally renowned. But beyond the clink of glasses, visitors are also drawn to Telavi’s architectural gems and historical landmarks.

Foremost among them is the 17th-century fortress of Batonis Tsikhe, or “The Lord’s Fortress.” This remarkable complex was once the Persian-style royal residence of the Kakhetian kings. Reconstructed in 2018, it now includes the main castle, fortified walls with watchtowers, the royal chapel, and a museum featuring archaeological and ethnographic collections, ancient manuscripts, and a fine art gallery.

Another architectural treasure is the 16th-century Gremi Fortress, which survived the catastrophic invasion led by Shah Abbas I that brought the city of Gremi to ruin. Yet perhaps the most ancient and revered monument in the Telavi region is the Alaverdi Cathedral, dating back to the 6th century. Within its sacred walls, one can still admire frescoes and painted decorations from the 15th century.

• Wander through the Old Town, discovering inspiration at every turn as you photograph the city’s iconic carved balconies, 19th-century mansions, and church domes.

• Step into history at Batonis Tsikhe, the citadel of Kakheti, and imagine the lives of kings within this well-preserved fortress, now open to the public as a museum.

• Admire sweeping views of Telavi and the Alazani Valley from various scenic overlooks—the best free spot lies beside the monument to King Erekle II.

• Enjoy lunch at Nadikvari Terrace Café, where a superb wine list and traditional Georgian cuisine are served alongside panoramic views of the valley below.

• Venture into the vineyards for the most picturesque photo opportunities—and, naturally, for a wine tasting or two.

• Tour Kakheti’s legendary wineries, such as Teliani Valley, Shumi, the historic cellars of Tsinandali, and the iconic “Corporation Kindzmarauli.”

• Rent a car and explore Kakheti’s rich heritage—from ancient temples and monasteries to mighty fortresses and royal castles. Don’t miss the Nekresi Monastery, the Alaverdi Cathedral, and the Gremi Fortress.

Telavi is undoubtedly one of Georgia’s most engaging cultural destinations, making it an ideal base for a deeper exploration of Kakheti. From here, one can easily embark on excursions to the region’s famed vineyards and wine cellars, ancient castles, medieval monasteries, and sacred temples. Whether visiting the majestic Alaverdi Cathedral, the secluded hilltop retreat of Nekresi, the scholarly haven of Ikalto Monastery, or the resilient towers of Gremi Fortress, you’ll trace the spirit of Georgian history through its most storied landmarks.