Bochorma Fortress

Perched atop a mountain ridge at more than 1,300 meters above sea level, the ancient fortress of Bochorma surveys the dramatic Iori River Gorge in Georgia’s Kakheti region, not far from the Ujarma–Tianeti highway. Though now in ruins, the fortress once stood as a vital political and military stronghold. In the 10th century, it served as one of the principal centers of the Kingdom of Kakheti.

Over the centuries, Bochorma bore witness to the rise and fall of kingdoms. During the reign of Georgian King Erekle II (Heraclius II), the fortress was rebuilt and once again took on a defensive role, protecting the approaches to Kakheti until the late 18th century.

Bochorma was composed of two main sections—an outer and an inner citadel. Within the inner compound stands the Church of St. George, dating back to the 10th century. Though weathered by time, the church still retains fragments of frescoes from the 12th century and an 18th-century iconostasis. Scattered across the site are remnants of various structures, both domestic and defensive in purpose. The outer walls and towers, though partially collapsed, still offer commanding views of the surrounding landscape.

Those wishing to visit the fortress must leave their vehicles at the foot of the hill and continue the ascent on foot. Two mountain trails, winding up the steep slopes from different directions, lead to the summit and the ruins above.

The exact origins of the fortress remain lost to time. The earliest mention of Bochorma appears in the “Chronicle of Kartli,” dating to the 10th century—a period marked by battles against the Arab emir Abul Qasim. At the time, Bochorma had already established itself as a formidable military structure with strategic importance to the Kingdom of Kakheti.

After Arab forces seized and destroyed the nearby fortress of Ujarma, the regional capital was transferred to Bochorma. A sizeable settlement grew within its walls, though the fortress began to wane in significance after the capital moved once again—this time to Telavi.

Following the unification of eastern Georgian territories under the royal Bagrationi dynasty in the 12th century, Bochorma all but disappeared from historical records. Under the reign of King David the Builder (David Aghmashenebeli), the fortress lost its importance as a military stronghold and fell into gradual decline.

And yet, despite its turbulent past, Bochorma remains one of the most monumental structures in the Kakheti region. Even today, reaching it requires effort and resolve. The steep paths leading up to its ancient ramparts remind visitors of the strength and endurance of those who once built this citadel, as well as the fierce determination of those who once laid siege to it.

Within the fortress grounds, visitors can still see the ruins of various auxiliary buildings, including what appear to be wine cellars, a royal residence, and other facilities that once served this fortified settlement. From the walls, panoramic vistas unfold across the surrounding valleys, while the crumbling towers, seen from below along the mountain paths, still convey a sense of impenetrable might. Despite their current condition, the fortress walls exude a formidable grandeur that time has not entirely erased.

In the 18th century, King Erekle II of Kartli and Kakheti undertook a revival of Bochorma. He rebuilt its walls and installed cannons, restoring its strategic value. The fortress continued to serve a military role until the end of that century.

Today, the area that once cradled a majestic citadel is cloaked in thick forest. Climbing the rugged trails that lead to its remnants, one cannot help but feel a deep reverence for the engineers who erected such a powerful bastion—and for the many who fought to possess it in ages past.