The essence of Georgian hospitality is beautifully embodied in the ceremonial feast known as Supra. This vibrant celebration takes place on a multitude of occasions—birthdays, anniversaries, death anniversaries, weddings, national holidays, religious observances, and even spontaneous gatherings among friends for no particular reason. Regardless of the occasion, one constant remains: wine flows abundantly throughout the evening.
At a Supra, wine holds a place of equal significance alongside the sumptuous food served. The feast unfolds through a series of toasts led by the Tamada, or toastmaster, who sets the tone for the evening. Topics of these toasts range from love and family to personal dedications, national pride, life, death, and spirituality. Integral to the experience are blessings, jokes, anecdotes, and humorous stories that enliven the atmosphere. For tourists fortunate enough to be invited to a Supra, they should anticipate a flurry of dedications, often translated by one of the younger attendees to ensure everyone can join in the celebration.
The role of the Tamada is both entertaining and profound. Positioned at the head of the table, he oversees the entire event, ensuring that traditions are honored and the spirit of the gathering is maintained. Next to him sits the Meriqipe, or wine pourer, who has the important task of refilling the Tamada’s glass, as the Tamada does not pour for himself. Toasts are rarely short; they often include long pauses that allow for reflection and anticipation. The Tamada also controls the flow of wine, and during formal Supras, strict etiquette is observed. Guests are expected to refrain from drinking until the Tamada completes his toast and proclaims “bolo mde” (meaning “until the end”). This declaration signals that everyone should drink until their glass is empty, as leaving any wine in the glass is seen as disrespectful to both the Tamada and the individual being honored with the toast. In the case of a death anniversary, the remaining drops of wine in an empty glass may be sprinkled on bread as a tribute to the deceased.
Once the Tamada concludes his toast, he invites another guest to share their thoughts, who must build upon the topic he has introduced. This exchange encourages contributions from all present, fostering a lively dialogue. A key aspect of etiquette is that every guest at the table must touch glasses before taking a sip. It is customary to touch another guest’s glass below their grip, leading to playful competition as guests strive to connect their glasses in this manner. This friendly rivalry can extend the glass-touching ritual, sometimes lasting as long as the original toast itself.
Toasts from guests often carry an air of friendly competition, with grand gestures and animated expressions. Leaving the table during the Tamada’s toast or while a guest is speaking is considered highly impolite, and any departure requires explicit permission from the Tamada.
While some Supras adhere to more formal codes of conduct, others are more relaxed and spontaneous. Informal Supras can spring up among close friends or to honor an unexpected guest, taking place in any setting that accommodates a table—be it a garage, a picnic table in a park, or even a field with makeshift arrangements. In these casual settings, the atmosphere becomes more egalitarian, allowing guests to drink at their leisure as long as each toast is honored with a drink. The generous pouring of wine may seem excessive to outsiders, but for Georgians, the ability to consume large quantities with grace is a mark of masculinity and strength, qualities that are highly valued in their culture.
Whether formal or casual, in a bustling restaurant or a cozy basement, all Supras are vibrant forums for song. Guests often break into ancient polyphonic hymns and European-style guitar ballads, showcasing remarkable talent that is all the more impressive given the amount of wine consumed. As the evening progresses into the early hours, the frequency of songs increases, creating a joyful atmosphere that lasts until the last drop of wine is gone.
Experiencing a Georgian Supra is a must for any tourist seeking an authentic glimpse into Georgian culture. It serves as a window into the soul of Georgian identity, revealing the deep-rooted traditions of hospitality, community, and celebration that define this remarkable nation.