Essential guide to Vardzia

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Essential guide to Vardzia

First inhabited as far back as the Bronze Age, Vardzia is a colossal monastic and defensive complex hewn into the face of a cliff between the 12th and 13th centuries. Carved into the rugged rocks of southern Georgia, its vast labyrinth of caves tells the story of a once-flourishing underground city—a testament to the ingenuity and spiritual devotion of medieval Georgian civilization.

Alongside the ancient cave city of Uplistsikhe and the David Gareja monastery complex, Vardzia stands among the most iconic landmarks of Georgia’s historical heritage.

Where is Vardzia Located?

Vardzia lies in Georgia’s southwestern region of Samtskhe-Javakheti, close to the Armenian border. While it is approximately 270 kilometers from Tbilisi, the nearest major town is Akhaltsikhe, located just 60 kilometers away. Set into Mount Erusheti, near the banks of the Mtkvari River, more than 600 caves have been carved—serving as churches, cells, dining halls, libraries, and storerooms.

A visit to Vardzia is easily arranged as a day trip from Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Borjomi, or Akhaltsikhe. Given the length of the journey from the larger cities, staying overnight in the vicinity is often the more comfortable choice—particularly because the best time to explore the site is in the morning. When planning your route, be cautious not to confuse it with another village named Vardzia in the Kharauli region.

Why Visit Vardzia?

Originally envisioned by King George III of Georgia as a fortress to protect the population from enemy invasions, Vardzia was transformed by his daughter, Queen Tamar, into a thriving city carved from stone—far more than just a temporary refuge.

Once a staggering 13 levels high and stretching half a kilometer along the cliff face, only part of Vardzia is accessible to visitors today. Though from afar the complex may seem modest, it conceals a vast network of chambers, stairways, tunnels, and terraces deep within the mountain. Excavations, which began during the Soviet era, are still ongoing, and archaeologists believe that during its peak, the complex may have comprised over 6,000 rooms.

A powerful earthquake in 1283 brought significant destruction, sending part of the cliff crashing into the river below and exposing the hidden heart of the cave city. After this catastrophe, Vardzia’s military role declined. In the mid-16th century, the Persians seized the site, followed by the Ottoman Turks at the end of the century. From that point until the 19th century, the caves were mainly used by shepherds seeking shelter.

When is the Best Time to Visit Vardzia?

Vardzia receives the most visitors between June and September. Summers can be quite hot, so those sensitive to high temperatures may wish to avoid visiting during July and August. The most pleasant months are April-May and September-October. Winter visits offer a quiet and atmospheric experience, though icy paths can make exploration more treacherous.

Today, Vardzia is home to an active male monastery. Visitors should dress modestly: knees and shoulders must be covered, and women are expected to wear a headscarf inside sacred spaces—scarves are available at the entrance if needed. Photography inside the churches is generally prohibited unless permission is granted, though some frescoes can be admired from the exterior.

What to See in Vardzia?

  • The Bell Tower – The first structure encountered upon entry, this external addition was built in the 13th century following the earthquake. Only the first tier of the original stone tower remains.

  • The Church of the Dormition – The heart of the monastery and the complex’s original centerpiece. The church’s ceiling is adorned with medieval frescoes depicting biblical scenes, as well as portraits of Queen Tamar and her father. Weathered frescoes can also be seen on the outer walls.

  • The “Tears of Tamar” Spring – This natural spring can be reached via a narrow tunnel near the church. Visitors often fill bottles with water from the source.

  • The Stables, Refectory, Pharmacy, Wine Cellars, and 12th-century Terracotta Water Pipes – These features highlight the community’s advanced infrastructure and self-sufficiency.

  • The Observation Deck – Located on the opposite bank of the river, this lookout point offers the most breathtaking views and photo opportunities of the entire Vardzia complex.

How Much Time is Needed to Explore Vardzia?

While the most rushed visitors might see the main sights in an hour, it’s best to allow at least two hours to properly experience the caves. With an audio guide, your visit may stretch to three hours. During peak months, narrow passageways can become crowded, slowing the pace of exploration. Visitors follow a marked walking path through the complex, with a separate exit path that leads to the ticket office and parking area.

Entrance Fees and Hours of Operation

  • Admission in 2023 costs 15 GEL. Entry is free for children under 6, but there are no discounts for students or seniors.

  • A shuttle to the complex entrance costs an additional 2 GEL per person. An audio guide is available for 15 GEL, and a one-hour guided tour costs around 45 GEL—guides have keys to some locked areas.

  • Both cash and cards are accepted at the ticket office.

  • The site is open daily, with seasonal hours:

    • March 1 to May 1: 10:00–18:00

    • May 1 to October 1: 10:00–19:00

    • October 1 to November 15: 10:00–18:00

    • November 15 to March 1: 10:00–17:00

Reaching Vardzia by Public Transport

Akhaltsikhe is the most practical hub for traveling to Vardzia. Getting there from Tbilisi or Kutaisi involves a transfer in Akhaltsikhe and can take 4–5 hours or longer. Many travelers choose to stay overnight in Akhaltsikhe or Vardzia or to join a guided tour, hire a transfer, or take a taxi.

Distances and Travel Times to Vardzia:

  • Akhaltsikhe – Vardzia: 61 km (~1.5 hours)

  • Borjomi – Vardzia: 108 km (~2 hours)

  • Tbilisi – Vardzia: 226 km (~4–5 hours)

  • Kutaisi – Vardzia: 235 km (~4–5 hours)

From Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia

From Akhaltsikhe’s main bus station, two direct minivans typically run to Vardzia daily. There are also minibuses to the village of Mirashkhani, located nearby. Travel time is around 1.5 hours, and the fare is about 7 GEL. Travelers can also reach Vardzia with transfers through Aspindza (40 minutes away), Toloshi (20 minutes), or Nokalakevi (15 minutes).

There are no direct minibuses from Kutaisi or Borjomi, so a stopover in Akhaltsikhe is necessary. The last return minibus from Vardzia usually leaves around 3:00 p.m., so missing it means waiting for a passing ride or hitchhiking back. From Akhaltsikhe, it’s easy to connect to Tbilisi, Kutaisi, Borjomi, and other cities.

From Tbilisi to Vardzia

Marshrutkas to Vardzia and Akhaltsikhe depart from the “Nige” bus station near Didube. Tickets are sold at the kiosk. Two direct minibuses to Vardzia leave around 10:00 and 11:00 a.m. The fare is 22 GEL, and the trip lasts about five hours. Buses to Akhaltsikhe leave roughly every 40 minutes from early morning until 7:00 p.m., taking about four hours and costing 15 GEL. For transfer-based travel, it’s best to catch the earliest departure.

From Kutaisi to Vardzia

Four daily minibuses depart from Kutaisi’s central station to Akhaltsikhe, the last one around 1:00 p.m. The fare is 20 GEL, and the journey takes approximately five hours. You might also find shared taxis at the station, priced at 25–35 GEL per person.

From Borjomi to Vardzia

Two minibuses a day run from Borjomi to Akhaltsikhe—one in the morning and one later in the day. The ride takes about an hour and costs around 5 GEL.

Vardzia and Rabati Fortress Tour (from Tbilisi)

From$170
1 Day

Visit Rabati Fortress complex
Explore Akhaltsikhe’s historic sites
Photo stop at Khertvisi Fortress
Discover Vardzia cave monastery
Walk through ancient tunnels
Admire 12th-century frescoes

Explore Georgia’s medieval heritage on a full-day tour from Tbilisi to Rabati Fortress and the ancient cave city of Vardzia. Discover majestic castles, breathtaking mountain views, and a rich tapestry of history carved into stone. A truly unforgettable experience.
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