Vardzia

Vardzia is a monumental cave complex in the south of Georgia, revered not only for its intricate network of passageways and the ancient frescoes that adorn its walls, but also for its breathtaking location in the gorge of the Mtkvari River. This extraordinary site stands as a silent witness to the reign of the legendary Queen Tamar, the onslaughts of Persian and Arab invaders, and the cataclysmic earthquake that once tore through its heart, destroying more than half the city.

The chronicles of Vardzia begin in the mid-12th century, during the reign of King George III—father of the illustrious Queen Tamar. It was under their auspices that the colossal cave complex, carved into the towering cliff face above the river, first began to take shape. In its earliest days, every structure—from domestic quarters and utility rooms to the Church of the Dormition of the Virgin—was hewn directly into the rock, hidden entirely within the mountain’s embrace.

This subterranean city-fortress was built to protect the Georgian Kingdom from waves of Persian and Turkish invasions. During its heyday, the city was concealed within the rock itself, linked to the outside world only by three secret tunnels. Legend holds that during the 12th-century Seljuk invasion, the royal court and Queen Tamar sought refuge in the safety of Vardzia’s labyrinthine depths.

A local legend lends Vardzia its name. It is said that young Tamar, while playing hide and seek with her uncle in the rugged hills, leapt from her hiding place and cried out, “Ak var, dzia!”—“I’m here, uncle!” The name, echoing from the folds of folklore, was bestowed first upon the surrounding settlement and later upon the great underground monastery.

There was a strategic impetus as well: relentless raids from neighboring powers demanded a vast stronghold that could accommodate not only a military garrison but also the region’s civilian population. At its peak, the city could shelter up to 20,000 people. Its defenders, aided by hidden passageways, could strike their enemies unexpectedly and retreat just as swiftly.

The surrounding landscape was a gift to those who settled here. Instead of building a fortress from the ground up, the inhabitants transformed pre-existing caves into fortified dwellings. These caves had housed people since antiquity, but during Queen Tamar’s reign, they were expanded and refined. The Church of the Dormition was constructed and eventually evolved into a full monastic complex. Over time, the settlement added a drainage system, a library, bathhouses, and granaries—laying the foundations for a thriving subterranean community.

Thus rose a spectacular cave city in the cliffs, stretching more than a kilometer across the mountain and rising eight levels high. At its zenith, Vardzia boasted approximately 600 chambers carved deep into the rock.

But in 1283, Vardzia’s destiny was forever altered by a devastating earthquake. A slab of rock, nearly 15 meters thick, sheared off the mountain and plunged into the river below, laying waste to more than half the city. In a single moment, Vardzia’s defensive advantage was lost—its chambers and corridors exposed to the world. Though the monastery and a bell tower were rebuilt later, the city’s strategic significance never recovered. In the 16th century, it fell into the hands of the Persians, and not long after, to the Turks.

By the 19th century, the region had come under Russian control, and religious services resumed. During the Soviet era, Vardzia was designated a museum-reserve. Ironically, the soot from Turkish fires helped preserve many of the site’s medieval frescoes—acting as an accidental preservative that shielded the artwork from the ravages of time.

The 1980s marked a new era of spiritual revival. Liturgies were once again held within Vardzia’s sacred walls, and today the complex is both an active monastery and one of Georgia’s most treasured cultural landmarks. Since 2007, Vardzia has stood as a candidate for inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Cave cities are rare by any measure, but ones as vast and historically rich as Vardzia are nearly unparalleled. This magnificent complex, with nearly a millennium of history, once included more than 600 interconnected spaces. Although the earthquake destroyed many, about 100 rooms and tunnels remain open to visitors today. Among the most captivating features are the 12th-century frescoes, which include portraits of King George III and Queen Tamar—two of Georgia’s most iconic figures.

Vardzia’s ancient “apartments,” monastic cells, storerooms, staircases, and passages remain remarkably well preserved. Most striking of all is the majestic cave Church of the Dormition of the Virgin, adorned with priceless medieval frescoes. These sacred images depict saints alongside the royal patrons themselves, King George III and Queen Tamar. The complex extends 50 meters deep into the rock and spans eight stories in height, securing its place on the bucket lists of travelers from around the world.

Set within the soft volcanic tuff of Mount Erusheti, in the historical Samtskhe–Javakheti region, Vardzia is a monumental treasure. The cave city stretches some 900 meters across the mountain face and burrows up to 50 meters into the rock. Perched at an elevation of 1,300 meters above sea level, Vardzia’s location is as striking as its architecture.

Around 600 of the complex’s original chambers have survived the centuries—among them monk cells, living quarters, bathhouses, storerooms, utility areas, and even a library. These spaces, carved straight into the rock, are connected by hundreds of staircases and corridors, leading to underground springs, chapels, and observation terraces with jaw-dropping panoramic views.

At the heart of the complex lies the Church of the Dormition, the ensemble’s oldest and most significant structure. Built and consecrated during the reign of Queen Tamar and her father, the church’s rock-hewn sanctuary has stood the test of time. Today, it remains an active place of worship—visitors are welcome to enter, provided they respect the dress code and maintain silence.

The spacious hall, supported by stone arches and columns, is graced with frescoes considered among the oldest and finest in the Caucasus. These luminous works, dating back to the 12th century, portray biblical scenes, saints, and the visages of Georgia’s royal family in vivid color.

Vardzia is more than a monument—it is an open-air museum of medieval history on an epic scale. Located in the Samtskhe–Javakheti region, it lies approximately 260 kilometers from Tbilisi and 380 kilometers from Batumi. The nearest town, Akhaltsikhe, is about 60 kilometers away. For those planning a visit, consider combining the journey with a stop at the Borjomi resort and the Rabati Fortress.

Opening Hours: Daily from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM or 7:00 PM, depending on the season.
Ticket Price: Adult admission is 15 GEL; children under 6 enter free of charge.

The Vardzia cave complex welcomes visitors year-round. However, winter visitors should take note of the weather: in cold or windy conditions, the experience can be less pleasant, and on rainy days, the stone paths may become slippery and unsafe for walking.

Vardzia is a fair distance from Georgia’s major tourist hubs. Though reachable by public transport, the journey is long and involves transfers. Travel time from Tbilisi, Kutaisi, or Batumi ranges from 5 to 7 hours one way. There is no direct bus to the site. The most common route is to travel first to Akhaltsikhe, and from there, take a minibus to Vardzia—a ride that takes approximately 2 hours.