Khertvisi Fortress

Perched high on a craggy promontory above the confluence of Georgia’s mightiest river—the Kura (Mtkvari)—and its right-hand tributary, the Paravani, stands the ancient Khertvisi Fortress. This formidable stronghold, among the oldest surviving medieval fortifications in the country, lies within the Samtskhe-Javakheti region in southern Georgia, just 30 kilometers from the regional capital, Akhaltsikhe.

A monument of national significance, Khertvisi is not merely an architectural relic but a living testament to Georgia’s tumultuous past. In 2007, the fortress, together with the nearby cave city of Vardzia, was submitted to UNESCO as a nominee for World Heritage status—a fitting recognition for a site steeped in legend and layered history.

According to the 11th-century Georgian historian Leonti Mroveli, one of the contributors to the medieval chronicle The Life of Kartli (Kartlis Tskhovreba), the city of Khertvisi existed as early as the 4th century BCE. Mroveli recounts the Eastern campaign of Alexander the Great and notes that the famed conqueror, upon reaching the stronghold of Khertvisi along the Kura, was unable to subdue it. While modern historians dispute the presence of Macedonian troops in the region and regard this tale more as folklore than fact, they do not challenge the notion that Khertvisi dates back to antiquity. It remains one of the earliest known fortified settlements on Georgian soil.

Khertvisi’s strategic location at the crossroads of vital trade routes—linking the Kura River basin to the Black Sea, Armenia, and Turkey—was a key factor in its development. Fortresses like Khertvisi were indispensable to regional rulers: not only did they offer protection, but they enabled control over traffic and commerce. Whoever held such fortifications wielded the power to dictate laws, levy tolls, and command submission.

Little is known about Khertvisi during the early medieval period, except that it eventually fell into decline. A revival began between the 10th and 11th centuries with the construction of a new fortress and the establishment of a church in 985. From this point, Khertvisi grew in stature, soon becoming a center of the Meskheti region. By the 12th century, it had officially attained city status.

However, its fortunes waned once more. A devastating earthquake at the close of the 13th century crumbled the fortress walls, and subsequent Mongol invasions left the site in ruins. Though reconstruction efforts around 1354–1356 restored and slightly expanded the fortress, it never regained its former glory.

During the 14th and 15th centuries, Khertvisi came under the control of the Georgian noble family, the Jaqelis. But from the late 16th century until the early 19th century, the region of Samtskhe-Javakheti fell under Ottoman rule. The Georgians managed to reclaim the fortress on a few occasions, but Turkish forces quickly drove them out each time. Following the Russo-Turkish War, the 1829 Treaty of Adrianople ceded the territory to the Russian Empire, and Khertvisi ceased to serve a military function.

The fortress complex is dominated by its citadel, which crowns the summit of the cliff. The lower fortress extends southeastward, hugging the hillside. The majority of surviving structures date back to the 10th–14th centuries, though the latest additions are from the 18th century. Khertvisi is a layered construction, having been rebuilt multiple times over centuries, with some sections entirely reconstructed.

The citadel conforms to the natural contours of the rock, with massive towers embedded into its robust walls. A northwestern tunnel once supplied water to the fortress—a vital feature for its endurance in times of siege.

At the site of an ancient church now stands a small chapel made of volcanic tuff. Its foundation contains remnants of the original structure, though beyond a tentative construction date, little else is known about the early church.

In 2017–2018, extensive renovation and infrastructure development were undertaken as part of a nearly $7 million project spearheaded by the Municipal Development Fund and financed by the World Bank. The restoration encompassed administrative buildings, the fortress gates, and paved pathways. A new parking area was installed, and visitor access was vastly improved, including accommodations for individuals with disabilities. Modern utilities were integrated, and the visitor center was enhanced.

Where once Khertvisi was difficult to reach, today it is easily accessible by road, attracting a growing number of both domestic and international visitors. The revitalized fortress, with its improved infrastructure and restored grandeur, has become a major draw for tourists exploring the historical heart of Georgia.

At the base of the cliff, nestled along the Kura River, lies a quaint village offering guesthouses and cafés—a perfect stopover for those venturing into the region.

Travelers often remark that Khertvisi’s imposing silhouette is most breathtaking when viewed from a distance. Yet those who climb its slopes are rewarded with a singular atmosphere and sweeping panoramic views from atop the cliffs. Despite the initial impression of a challenging ascent, the southern approach to the fortress gates is surprisingly manageable.

Visiting Khertvisi is best paired with a journey to the nearby cave city of Vardzia, creating a memorable encounter with Georgia’s medieval marvels.

Marshrutkas (minibuses) depart daily from the Akhaltsikhe bus station toward Vardzia. Since schedules may change frequently, it is best to confirm departure times on-site. Be sure to inform the driver in advance that you wish to stop at Khertvisi, so they can drop you off near the fortress. From there, the remainder of the journey must be made on foot.

If starting from Akhalkalaki, take a bus bound for Akhaltsikhe. Disembark at the junction leading to Vardzia, cross the bridge spanning the Paravani River, and ascend the hill. The total walking distance is approximately 650 meters.